The Brick Capital of the World

                Established in 1870, Malvern's journey began as a humble railway station, but the town quickly transformed into a key player when it became the seat of Hot Spring County shortly after its incorporation. The region's rich agricultural and mineral assets laid a robust foundation for Malvern’s sustained economic growth, with brick production emerging as a pivotal industry.

                The Cairo & Fulton Railroad put Malvern on the map in 1873. Legend has it that a rail official, finding the hilly landscape reminiscent of his Virginia roots near Malvern Hill, convinced the company to adopt the name. Residents were eager to incorporate, making attempts in January and October 1875 that ultimately fell short. However, persistence paid off, and on July 22, 1876, the county court officially decreed the formation of Malvern, with Samuel Henry Emerson serving as the town’s first mayor.

                At the time, Rockport had long been the economic hub of the region, sitting at the head of navigation for the Ouachita River and serving as the county seat of Hot Spring County. But the advent of the railroad ushered in a period of rapid development for Malvern, prompting its citizens to seek a shift in government power. The initial vote in February 1877 didn’t yield success, but by July 1878, 176 voters rallied for change. On October 15, County Judge William Morehead authorized the county seat's relocation from Rockport to Malvern, marking a significant milestone in the city’s history. 

                The construction of the first county courthouse in 1888 was just one step in solidifying Malvern’s political and financial stature, with a new courthouse built in 1936. Adding to the city’s financial landscape, the Bank of Malvern was chartered in 1889, further invigorating economic activity in Hot Spring County. 

                Malvern has cemented its reputation as a hub for brick production, thanks to its rich clay deposits, particularly in nearby Perla (Hot Spring County). One of the trailblazers of this thriving industry was the Atchison Brick Company, which opened in the early 1890s. The timing was fortuitous; after devastating fires ravaged downtown Malvern in 1896 and 1897, the city seized the chance to rebuild with durable all-brick structures.

                In 1907, Malvern’s economic landscape evolved as the Clem family opened Clem Bottling Works, which quenchingly produced soft drinks such as Clem’s Orange, R-Pep, and Pep-Up, until 1972. In 1916, the Malvern Daily Record newspaper began publication. A year later, Arkansas Brick and Tile Co. took over the Atchison facilities, signaling a consolidation in the industry. Meanwhile, C. A. Bryan and Son was another early player, but after a fire at their plant, they sold to Malvern Brick and Tile Co. in 1924.

                The industry saw new developments in 1919, when Fort Worth-based Acme Brick Company acquired 120 acres in Perla. They began shipping products from their Perla Plant Number 1 in 1921, and just five years later, Acme took over Arkansas Brick and Tile’s operations, expanding their production footprint even more. While growth was somewhat stagnant during the 1930s and 1940s, the post-war years ushered in a period of strong expansion for Acme.

                Today, Acme Brick remains a cornerstone of both Malvern and Perla, reflecting the area’s continued commitment to brick production. A landmark development came in 1967, with the construction of a fully automated plant in Perla. The original Malvern plant was closed in 1980, replaced by a new operation named the Ouachita Plant. That same year, the city boldly proclaimed itself the “Brick Capital of the World.”

                Malvern is also the home of Grapette International, which manufactures Grapette soda and other soft drinks and beverage syrups sold throughout the world. Invented in 1939 by Benjamin T. Fooks, Grapette was originally based in nearby Camden (Ouachita County).

                Malvern is not just bricks and mortar; it is also home to a wealth of historic sites. The Alderson-Coston House, Clark House, Gatewood House, Strauss House, the Pine Bluff Street Historic District, and many more are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The Hot Spring County Museum adds to the rich tapestry of this vibrant community, preserving the legacy of a city built on brick, ambition, and history.

Arkansas' Only Ice Cream Company

             Based in Searcy (White County), Yarnell’s Ice Cream Company operated for four generations under the Yarnell family from 1932 to 2011, serving as Arkansas's sole ice cream-producing company. Following its closure due to bankruptcy in 2011, the company was acquired by Schulze and Burch Biscuit Co. and reintroduced in April 2012.

            Before Yarnell’s, the Grisham Ice Cream Company, known for producing Grisham’s Angel Food Ice Cream, was headquartered in Searcy in 1923, and later merged with the Terry Dairy Company in 1927.

            During the 1920s, Grisham and several other community ice cream companies in Arkansas were essential in rural areas with limited electricity. It wasn't until 1929 that Grisham acquired a refrigerated truck, enabling the company to extend its reach through its first truck route, using salt and ice to keep the ice cream cold. The truck ran between Searcy and Cabot (Lonoke County) in the south and to Tuckerman (Jackson County) in the north.

            In 1929, facing financial difficulties, Grisham was sold to Southwest Dairy Products, known for its Dairyland brand. Subsequently, Southwest Dairy Products went bankrupt, leading Ray Yarnell purchasing the plant in 1932. Yarnell had to pool all available cash and borrow against his life insurance policy to make the purchase, facing further financial challenges when the federal government declared a “bank holiday” in March 1933, freezing his funds. Yarnell went without a salary for a year and had to borrow additional funds to sustain the business.

            Throughout the 1930s and 1940s, the company steadily processed and sold ice cream products locally. Ray Yarnell's wife, Hallie, played a pivotal role as the bookkeeper, while their son Albert expanded the company's reach by delivering ice cream on his bicycle. The purchase of their first electrically refrigerated truck marked a significant milestone by the end of the 1930s.

            Following his return from serving in the Signal Corps during World War II, Albert Yarnell assumed the role of vice president and sales manager in 1948. His leadership was instrumental in guiding the company through its first major plant expansion in 1951, which significantly increased the company's production capacity. This expansion led to an expanded sales territory covering central and south Arkansas. Albert Yarnell's dedication was further recognized when he was named general manager in 1960, and subsequently became president following his father's passing in 1974.

            In 1970, the company achieved a significant milestone, reaching $1 million in sales. Five years later, Albert's son, Rogers Yarnell, joined the company. Notably, Yarnell's introduced the nation's first all-natural ice milk for the health-conscious market in 1978. By 1984, the company's reach extended throughout the region, earning acclaim for its "Down Home Goodness." In 1991, Yarnell's continued to innovate, introducing “Guilt Free,” touted as America's first fat-free, no-sugar-added line of ice cream.

            Until its 2011 closure, Albert Yarnell served as the company’s chairman, Rogers Yarnell as president/chief executive officer, and fourth-generation Christina Yarnell, who joined the business in 2001, serving as custom brand manager. The company was known for its consistent introduction of new products alongside its traditional favorites and ice cream novelties. Yarnell’s had a strong presence in Arkansas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Missouri, Oklahoma, and Tennessee, and at the time of its closure, it was the only remaining ice cream company in Arkansas. Unfortunately, on June 30, 2011, the company ceased operations abruptly, attributing it to a struggling economy, difficulties in obtaining financing, and the inability to find a buyer.

            In November 2011, the Schulze and Burch Biscuit Company of Chicago, Illinois, acquired the Yarnell’s plant and most of the recipes at auction for a reported sum of $1.3 million. Subsequently, the company relaunched the Yarnell’s brand in April 2012. The ceremonial scoop was made by Gov. Mike Beebe at a press conference at the state capitol on April 19, 2012. Fast forward to June 2020, the production facility in Searcy was sold by Schulze and Burch to Turkey Hill Dairy of Pennsylvania, with the company retaining ownership of the Yarnell’s brand.

The Arkansas Museum of Natural Resources

            

            The Arkansas Museum of Natural Resources near Smackover (Union County) showcases the compelling story of oil and bromine production in southern Arkansas, focusing on the historic oil boom of the 1920s. The museum not only delves into the history of these resources from their ancient origins to modern times but also highlights the impact of this significant period in Arkansas history.

            During the 1920s, national attention was drawn to this region, as the Smackover Oil Field rose to prominence, ranking first among the nation’s oil fields with an impressive yearly production of sixty-nine million barrels in 1925. This area experienced one of the most rapid mineral booms in North America, with a staggering success rate of ninety-two percent in drilling 1,000 wells within the first six months, leading to the exponential growth of Smackover.

            However, the lack of conservation laws resulted in the escape of natural gas and the pollution of the landscape by saltwater, leading to the decline of the oil boom by the early 1930s. Despite this, south Arkansas oil fields continue to produce petroleum, albeit at a slower rate.

            The Arkansas Museum of Natural Resources’ origins can be traced back to 1975, when a group of visionaries envisioned a place to preserve and interpret Arkansas’s oil history. Subsequently, in 1977, the Arkansas General Assembly passed Act 310, which imposed a tax on the state’s oil production to fund the museum’s construction and operation. Additionally, in 1979, the legislature imposed a tax on brine, a saltwater often found alongside oil deposits and a source of bromine extraction. Notably, bromine, a vital chemical used in various industries, is derived from this brine.

            In 1980, Jack Turner donated nineteen acres in Smackover as a site for the Arkansas Oil and Brine Museum. Initially known by this name, the museum was later renamed the Arkansas Museum of Natural Resources in 1997 and is operated by the Arkansas Department of Parks, Heritage, and Tourism.

            The museum’s exhibition center spans 25,000 square feet and houses an array of captivating displays. Visitors can explore vintage photographs, an auditorium showcasing two videos, a unique exhibit called “Center of the Earth,” a geologic time scale and fossil exhibit, and life-size representations of roughnecks working an oil derrick. Additionally, there are exhibits on family life in the oil fields, vintage gas pumps, and petroleum company signs.

            One of the museum’s highlights is a high-tech elevator that takes visitors on a journey through time, from a Jurassic period sea floor to the Industrial Revolution. An adjoining exhibit focuses on the evolution of oil consumption from 1922 to modern times, offering a fascinating perspective. Moreover, visitors can peer from a replica of the Rogerson Hotel’s second-floor veranda overlooking a re-created, boom-era street scene in Smackover, complete with numerous storefronts, a jail, a newspaper office, mannequins in period dress, and vintage automobiles.

            Outside, the center’s Oilfield Park features operating examples of oil-producing technology from the 1920s to the present day, including a 112-foot wooden derrick similar to the one at the original Busey No. 1 Well in El Dorado. For those interested in seeing an active oil field, the museum’s staff has prepared maps for either six- or fifteen-mile driving tours of the Smackover field, revealing remnants of early production such as salt flats. The field is conveniently located just north of the museum.

For further details regarding the Arkansas Museum of Natural Resources, contact the museum’s office at 870-725-2877 or visit its website at www.amnr.org.

The Precious Town of Jasper

             

   

                Nestled in Newton County, the charming town of Jasper is truly a sight to behold. Surrounded by the natural wonders where the Buffalo River, the nation's first national river, begins its graceful journey, Jasper exudes a quaint and picturesque allure. With over one-third of the county under government ownership, the town is a haven for those seeking solace in nature's embrace.

                Jasper's roots trace back to 1840, when it was established as a village along the Little Buffalo River. Early settlers, drawn to the area as early as 1825, left their mark on the village, as evidenced by census records from 1850. The town's evolution took a significant turn in 1843, when the first postmaster, John Ross, relocated his family to Jasper, establishing a trading post and leaving an indelible mark on the town's history.

                The town's significance was further solidified on Dec. 14, 1842, when Gov. Archibald Yell signed legislation creating Newton County from land in Carroll County, designating Jasper as the county seat in 1843. From 1843 to 1849, Ross played a pivotal role in various town offices, from postmaster to county judge, leaving an enduring legacy in Jasper's history.

                Amidst the turmoil of the Civil War, the community bore witness to the rise of two distinguished figures, each championing a different cause. James Vanderpool, a celebrated Union veteran, returned home in August 1865, while John Cecil, the former sheriff of Newton County, gained notoriety for displaying his twin pearl-handled pistols as a Confederate guerrilla leader. Although Newton County predominantly supported the Union, the year 1863 saw Union troops setting Jasper ablaze in their pursuit of Cecil, relocating sympathizers to Springfield, Missouri.

                In the aftermath of the Civil War, Jasper burgeoned into a bustling hub. Abundant timber, particularly oak for stave bolts and cedar for pencil mills, spurred local sawmills to employ hundreds of men. The town flourished to such an extent that it boasted five newspapers. Census records between 1880 and 1900 reveal that Newton County's population surged from 6,120 to 12,538. On Dec. 19, 1895, the inhabitants of Jasper petitioned the county court for incorporation as a town.

                The origins of the name Jasper are shrouded in legend, with at least three stories in circulation. According to one oft-repeated tale, Cherokee Indians bestowed the name upon the town in appreciation of the warm hospitality they received while traveling west along the Trail of Tears. Another version of this account involves a cherished ring, housing a jasper stone, presented to John Ross as a token of gratitude for his kindness towards the Cherokee travelers. Alternatively, it is said that Ross coined the name by likening the mellow hue of the local stone to jasper, one of the twelve precious stones mentioned in the New Testament book of Revelation.

                Situated in the center of the Ozark Mountains, Jasper and its surrounding area offer a large variety of outdoor activities, making it an ideal destination for adventure seekers. From hiking and canoeing to caving and rock climbing, there's truly something for everyone. The region is also renowned for its elk population, with approximately 450 elk making their home in the Buffalo River corridor and beyond, earning Newton County the title of Elk Capital of Arkansas.

                One of Jasper's most famous attractions is the Arkansas Grand Canyon, a stunning natural marvel that beautifully combines picturesque landscapes and native fauna.

                Recognized by American Cowboy magazine as one of the "Five Spots for Family Reunions" in Sept. 2012, Jasper boasts a charming downtown square adorned with a picturesque courthouse and inviting gazebos. Each year, the Buffalo River Elk Festival draws visitors to celebrate the successful reintroduction of elk to the area.

                For travelers embarking on Arkansas Scenic Byway 7, a feast for the eyes awaits as the route winds through the county from north to south. Jasper's proximity to Harrison, Russellville, and Branson makes it a convenient stop for those exploring northwest Arkansas. 

                If you are in the vicinity, don't miss the opportunity to uncover the hidden gem of Jasper, a true treasure in the Natural State.

Arkansas' Westminster Abbey

                

                Mount Holly Cemetery in Arkansas' capital city of Little Rock (Pulaski County) is known as the state’s Westminster Abbey. The nickname is well-deserved, considering the multitude of individuals of great significance in art, literature, politics, and religion who have found their final resting place there. The cemetery contains the gravesites of eleven Arkansas governors, thirteen Arkansas Supreme Court justices, four United States senators, four Confederate generals, and twenty-one former Little Rock mayors. 

                The cemetery's long and storied history dates back to February 1843, when the land was deeded by two prominent Little Rock citizens, attorneys Chester Ashley and Roswell Beebe, to the city of Little Rock. Situated on a four-square-block site between 11th and 13th streets and from Broadway to Gaines Street, the cemetery became the major burial ground after private family cemeteries and a public burial ground were utilized for interments before its establishment. Numerous grave markers with dates preceding the formation of Mount Holly reflect reinterments from a previous location.

                In 1877, feeling that the cemetery was not receiving the care it deserved, a group of businessmen in Little Rock established a cemetery commission. This commission administered the cemetery for almost forty years until a group of the town’s women took over the responsibility due to their dissatisfaction with its neglected appearance. The ladies formed the Mount Holly Cemetery Association, which was incorporated in 1915, and has continued to oversee the management of the cemetery.

                Records from 1940 indicated that Arkansas had fewer foreign-born residents than any other state in the union, a fact reinforced by the cemetery's burial index, indicating that the majority of early decedents were native-born. Over the years, specific sections of the cemetery were designated for Catholic and Jewish burials, reflecting the diverse history of the area. Notably, a portion of the cemetery was set aside for the internment of African Americans as early as 1843.

                Thus, Mount Holly Cemetery stands not only as a final resting place but also as a site rich with historical and cultural significance, telling the stories of the people who have shaped the state's past.

                The cemetery's serene atmosphere is accentuated by its assortment of old roses, mature trees, and intricately crafted signs that guide visitors through its narrow pathways. The elegant Victorian era is captured in the diverse architectural styles and grave markers adorned with intriguing motifs and epitaphs.

              

                Notable features within the cemetery include the rare white bronze markers, created only between 1875 and 1915, and the exquisite cemetery furniture, including aged cast iron pieces and ornate iron fencing enclosing select burial plots. Among the remarkable monuments, the Albert Pike family marker stands out as a work of art designed by the renowned Robert Eberhard Launitz, considered the pioneer of monumental art in America.

                A captivating nineteenth-century cast iron fountain, produced by the J. L. Mott Company of Bronx, New York, has adorned the cemetery since 2002, adding a touch of history and elegance. To accommodate the growing popularity of cremation, a columbarium was constructed in 2003 on the western side of the fountain.

                Since October 1995, student actors from Parkview High School’s speech and drama department in Little Rock have dressed up in period-correct costumes and performed short monologues and dialogues from the lives of those buried in Mount Holly Cemetery. The event, Tales from the Crypt, is held every second Sunday in October. This year, the event will be held on October 6 from 2-4 p.m., with the last tour starting at 4 p.m. The family-friendly event is free, but donations are accepted and appreciated.

                For more information about the Tales from the Crypt event and the cemetery, visit its website at www.MountHollyCemetery.org.

Lake Maumelle

                

                Last Saturday, my wife, mother-in-law, and I drove to Russellville (Pope County) to welcome the newest addition to the Brown family—an adorable three-month-old Boston Terrier named Tucker. Departing from our home on Lake Norrell, we opted for the scenic route along Highway 10 to reach our destination. Hailing from Texas and unfamiliar with this part of the Natural State, my mother-in-law was particularly astounded by the magnitude and splendor of the body of water we drove past on Highway 10—Lake Maumelle. 

                The origins of Lake Maumelle can be traced back to the post-World War I growth of Little Rock and its surrounding suburbs. At that time, it became evident that the drinking water supply from Lake Winona in northwestern Saline County was insufficient to meet the increasing demand. Consequently, construction of a dam on the Big Maumelle River commenced in 1956, and the lake was ultimately completed in March 1959, covering approximately 8,900 acres.

                The creation of Lake Maumelle necessitated the relocation of fifty families from the small community of Crossroads, which was home to several churches, schools, and stores. As part of the relocation process, graves in the local cemetery were transferred, and many families resettled in Roland and Natural Steps.

                Both the lake and the river that was impounded to create it were named after the original appellation of nearby Pinnacle Mountain, initially referred to as Mamelle by nineteenth-century French explorers due to its resemblance to a female breast. The Big Maumelle River runs to the north of Pinnacle Mountain, while the Little Maumelle River flows to the south of the mountain.

                Central Arkansas Water took on the responsibility of managing the upkeep of the lake and its surrounding watershed. Throughout the years, the organization has negotiated with property owners near the lake, resulting in several agreements. These agreements encompass a range of regulations, including the prohibition of tree clearance on the land, restrictions on the development of hotels, condominiums, or restaurants in the lake's proximity, and the requirement for property owners to obtain specific permission before commencing any construction. Moreover, the use of animal waste as fertilizer is expressly banned. Financial incentives are in place to encourage the replacement of septic tanks with sewer lines, diverting household waste away from the watershed area. 

               While fishing and certain types of boating are permitted on the lake, activities such as swimming, wading, and specific watercraft operations are prohibited.

                Over the years, Lake Maumelle has become a beloved spot for sail boating enthusiasts, and is renowned for its vibrant sailing regattas. The lake is home to Grande Maumelle Sailing Club, a nonprofit organization that boasts a clubhouse, pavilion, docks, keelboat slips, as well as amenities for trailered sailboats including a boat ramp and crane.

                Lake Maumelle and the Big and Little Maumelle Rivers are inhabited by a variety of fish species, such as bass, crappie, bream, catfish, mussels, and other aquatic life. The area is also home to many birds and other wildlife, particularly within the Ouachita National Forest. The U.S. Forest Service allocated $4 million in 2012 to safeguard four miles of forest along the river outside the national forest, enhancing environmental protection. Additionally, the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission established a wildlife management area and signed a ninety-nine-year lease with Central Arkansas Water in 2013 to preserve the river and lake.

                Nearby Pinnacle Mountain State Park offers eagle-watching cruises on Lake Maumelle during the fall months. The tours are open to all ages and cost between $10 and $15 per person. They typically last about an hour and a half. For further details about the cruises, contact the park’s visitor center at (501) 868-5806.

                If you happen to find yourself in central Arkansas and are looking to immerse yourself in our state's breathtaking natural scenery, I highly recommend taking the drive along Highway 10 to behold one of the most beautiful and pristine bodies of water in the Natural State—Lake Maumelle.

The Sultana Disaster

The worst maritime disaster in American history occurred on the Mississippi River near Helena (Phillips County) on April 27, 1865, when a commercial side-wheel steamboat named the Sultana exploded, claiming the lives of its 1,167 passengers.

The wooden vessel was built in 1863 by the John Litherbury Boatyard in Cincinnati, Ohio, and was officially launched into service on January 3 of that year. The boat was intended for the cotton trade on the lower Mississippi River. It weighed 1,719 tons and could carry a crew of 85, along with approximately 375 passengers.

For its first two years in operation, the Sultana ran a regular route on the Mississippi River between the two major port cities of St. Louis and New Orleans. It was also used to carry troops during the Civil War.

Even though the Sultana was designed with a capacity of only 375 passengers, it was carrying 2,128 when three of the boat's four boilers exploded and caused it to sink near Memphis. The tragedy was largely overshadowed in the newspapers of the day due to the events surrounding the end of the Civil War, as well as the murder of President Lincoln's assassin John Wilkes Booth, which took place the day before the Sultana disaster.

The Sultana explosion was officially attributed to boiler water level mismanagement, which was made worse by the ship's extreme overloading and top-heavy design. The steamer listed badly from side to side as it traveled north, following the river's many curves. The Sultana’s four boilers were positioned side by side and connected so that water would tend to drain out of the topmost boiler if the boat toppled sideways. Hot areas were generated by the fires still burning against the empty boiler. A quick increase in pressure would result from water pouring back into the empty boiler and hitting the hot areas, instantly flashing to steam when the boat tipped the other way. Maintaining high water levels in the boilers may have minimized this careening effect. The official inquiry found that the boilers exploded because of the combined impact of careening, low water levels, and the faulty repair made a few days earlier.

Through the years, several monuments and historical markers commemorating the Sultana disaster and its 1,167 victims have been placed in Memphis; Muncie, Indiana; Vicksburg, Mississippi; Cincinnati; Knoxville, Tennessee; and Marion (Crittenden County).

An archaeological expedition, led by Memphis lawyer Jerry Potter in 1982, uncovered what was believed to be the remains of the Sultana. Blackened wooden deck planks were found about 32 feet under a soybean field on the Arkansas side of the Mississippi River. The river has changed course many times since the Sultana disaster, leaving the wreckage under dry land and far from the river’s present course, as the Mississippi’s main channel now flows two miles east of its 1865 position.

In 2015, on the 150th anniversary of the disaster, an interim museum dedicated to the Sultana was opened in Marion. The museum was only meant to be temporary while funds were raised to build a permanent museum. Featured in the museum are artifacts from the Sultana, such as shaker plates from the boat's furnace, furnace bricks, and pieces of metal and wood from the ship. The museum also features a fourteen-foot model replica of the boat. One wall in the museum lists the names of every soldier, crewmember, and passenger who lost their lives in the disaster. The current museum is located at 104 Washington Street in Marion.

Recently, the non-profit Sultana Historic Preservation Society, Inc. acquired the 1939 Marion Public School auditorium and gymnasium for renovation as the future home of the permanent museum. A team of architects, exhibit designers, and planners is working on concepts for the 17,000-square-foot facility. With a more accessible location, the historic building with its 35-foot ceilings will offer ample capacity for a new, state-of-the-art museum that will educate visitors about the Sultana tragedy and honor the memory of its victims.

For more information about the Sultana museum and how you can contribute, visit its website at www.sultanadisastermuseum.com.

Have a happy and safe Labor Day weekend, Arkansas!

The Charming Town of Hardy

 

                Hardy is a city located in Fulton and Sharp Counties in the Ozark Mountain range of Arkansas. Situated on the banks of the Spring River created by nearby Mammoth Spring, Hardy is best known for being a mecca of water-related recreation. However, the town is also popular for its antique shops, craft stores, unique restaurants, and musical venues.

                In 1879, the town was founded as Township 17 but was later renamed Hardy in 1883 after local landowner, James Hardy. Hardy was one of Sharp County’s two county seats with Evening Shade being the other. Hardy was officially incorporated as a town on July 12, 1894. The St. Louis, Iron Mountain, and Southern Railroad arrived the same year and brought growth and development to the area.

                By the early 1900s, Hardy became a popular tourist destination, attracting visitors across Arkansas and neighboring states with its natural springs, scenic beauty, and recreational opportunities.

                Memphis doctor, George G. Buford, and his wife were temporarily stranded in Hardy in 1908 when the train they were traveling on experienced mechanical failure. They climbed Wahpeton Hill on the south bank of the Spring River and fell in love with the untouched surroundings. The Bufords bought fifty acres on Wahpeton the next year and erected a summer cottage.

                Buford added to his land holdings over the next few years by purchasing land near Jordan and East Wahpeton Hills. Buford built ten cottages for summer guests on his new land which he named Wahpeton Inn in 1912.  L. L. Ward of Blytheville (Mississippi County) opened a second resort he named Rio Vista in 1932. In addition to the resorts, several Memphis youth organizations established summer camps on land located near Hardy. The Kia Kima summer camp, operated by the Boy Scouts, opened in 1916. Camp Kiwani was established as a Girl Scout camp in 1920.  By 1930, the town had 508 residents in 1930, but visitor numbers ballooned to around a thousand per day between July and September.

                During the Great Depression, Hardy’s economy struggled, but the construction of U.S. Highway 63, which runs through the town, helped revitalize the area. In its course through the Natural State, Highway 63 runs from the Missouri state line at Mammoth Spring to connect with Interstate 55 near Gilmore. The creation of the Ozark National Forest also helped bring much-needed economic revitalization to Hardy and surrounding communities.

                In the 1960s and 1970s, Hardy experienced significant growth, with new businesses, schools, and infrastructure development. However, despite all of the progress made in the city, in 1963, both Hardy and Evening Shade lost their county seat designations, as Ash Flat was named the permanent county seat of Sharp County. In 1968, the Arkansaw Traveller Folk Theater opened in Hardy to preserve the culture of the Ozarks including the story and music behind one of our state’s most historic songs, The Arkansas Traveler, written by Col. Sanford “Sandy” Faulkner.

                Hardy’s most notable residents were the country music duo, The Wilburns. Comprised of brothers Doyle (b. 1930) and Teddy (b. 1931), the Wilburns were successful on the country charts in the 1950s through the 1970s. The brothers performed regularly on the Louisiana Hayride radio show in Shreveport and eventually became members of the prestigious Grand Ole Opry in Nashville. The duo was also popular due to their hit syndicated television program, The Wilburn Brothers Show, which ran from 1963 to 1974.

                While Hardy is the state’s smallest town to boast a historic district, it has 41 commercial buildings listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The entire downtown area is a treasure trove of Arkansas history and features many stores and gift shops located in pre-World War II buildings along the beautiful Spring River.

                In 2014, the Discovery Channel aired a short-lived reality show, Clash of the Ozarks, whose storyline involved a legendary century-old family feud in Hardy. The show ran for one six-episode season but was not renewed.

                Today, Hardy is a thriving city with a strong focus on tourism, outdoor recreation, and small-town charm. As of the 2020 census, the city has 765 residents.

                From those who come for the water sports and fishing opportunities provided by nearby Mammoth Spring and the Spring River to those just passing through, Hardy offers a variety of worthwhile attractions for tourists visiting this small town in the Ozarks.

Lassis Inn

                Founded in 1905, Lassis Inn was a historic restaurant in Little Rock that served delicious soul food for over a hundred years in central Arkansas.

                The restaurant was started by Joe and Molassis (the restaurant’s namesake) Watson when the couple began selling sandwiches out of their Little Rock home around 1905. As their business became increasingly popular, the Watsons began selling fried catfish. When the business outgrew their house, the Watsons opened a small stand-alone building to handle the influx of orders. In 1931, the couple moved the building and business to East 27th Street and later moved it a few blocks to its current location at 518 East 27th Street in the early 1960s to accommodate the construction of Interstate 30. The baby blue-colored wooden building still stands just below the I-30 abutment south of downtown Little Rock.

                Lassis Inn played an important role in the civil rights movement in Arkansas during the 1950s and 1960s, as the restaurant served as a friendly meeting place for civil rights activists, including Daisy Gatson Bates. It was inside the walls of the small restaurant where the group discussed and planned civil rights efforts for the state, such as the desegregation of Little Rock’s Central High School in September 1957.

                Members of the Watson family operated Lassis Inn for decades until 1989, when Elihue Washington, Jr. and his wife, Maria, purchased the restaurant.

                In 2017, Lassis Inn was one of three inductees into the inaugural class of the Department of Arkansas Heritage’s Arkansas Food Hall of Fame alongside Jones Bar-B-Q in Marianna (Lee County) and Rhoda’s Hot Tamales in Lake Village (Chicot County). The restaurant received the prestigious American Classics Award from the James Beard Foundation in 2020. Lassis Inn received another accolade in 2022 when Southern Living magazine named the restaurant to their list of best soul food restaurants in the southern United States. 

                Lassis Inn specialized in fried catfish and buffalo ribs, which are considered a delicacy in the South. Sides such as hushpuppies and fries were also on the menu. The restaurant was notable for having a jukebox flanked with “No Dancing!” signs. The story goes that after the jukebox was installed, customers danced down the small establishment’s narrow aisles. After owner Washington had to make numerous repairs every week after active rounds of dancing, he decided to place the infamous signs reminding customers not to continue the practice.

                In May 2024, it was reported by the Arkansas Democrat-Gazette that the iconic restaurant had permanently closed, much to the chagrin of loyal customers and foodies from across the state. However, in July 2024, it was announced that Lassis Inn would be opening under new owners, Chris Jones and Kristian Nelson, with Washington assisting in the kitchen. While fried fish would still be the staple of the restaurant’s menu, the new owners revealed new items would be added including smoked brisket, baby-back ribs, hamburgers, and loaded baked potatoes.

                The Arkansas Times reported that on July 16, 2024, Elihue Washington filed a lawsuit to get out of the contract to sell the restaurant, citing Nelson’s previous convictions on interstate wire fraud, felony hot-check, and false police report charges, as well as the fact that a check Nelson gave Washington as part of the payment bounced. As such, the fate of Lassis Inn is up in the air.

                As of this writing, several reports in the local media state that Lassis Inn is scheduled to reopen on Tuesday, August 13, and that its hours of operation will be from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 12 a.m. Friday through Saturday, and 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday.

                Hopes remain high that Lassis Inn will indeed reopen and again be a must-visit destination for soul food lovers. If you never got the opportunity to visit the famed restaurant (thankfully I did) and it does reopen, do your tastebuds a favor and visit this historic eatery for a unique Southern dining experience.

Conway Cemetery State Park

 

               One of Arkansas’ least visited state parks contains the remains of one of the most important figures in Arkansas political history-- Conway Cemetery State Park. Conway Cemetery State Park is near Walnut Hill (Lafayette County) in southwest Arkansas. The park preserves the half-acre Conway family cemetery, which contains the grave of Arkansas’ first governor, James Sevier Conway. It is the second-smallest Arkansas state park. Herman Davis State Park near Manila is the smallest.

                Conway came to Arkansas from Tennessee in 1820 and formed a surveying company in Little Rock (Pulaski County.) In 1832, Conway was appointed surveyor general of the Arkansas Territory by President Andrew Jackson. When Arkansas became the 25th state on June 15, 1836, Conway was elected as the state’s chief executive and served from 1836 to 1840. Conway was a member of “The Family,” a powerful dynasty that dominated the early politics of Arkansas. His younger brother, Elias, was Arkansas’ fifth governor who served from 1852-1860. The Conways’ cousin, Ambrose H. Sevier, was one of Arkansas’ first U.S. senators. Another one of the Conways’ cousins, Benjamin Johnson, was one of the state’s first supreme court justices. Benjamin’s brother, Richard Johnson, served as Vice President under President Martin Van Buren. Several other relatives of the Conway family served in various other state and local offices.

                During his time in office, Gov. James Conway was responsible for a budget surplus and many of the state’s first institutions-- including roads, a prison system, and a state bank. A firm believer in the importance of a quality education, he unsuccessfully requested that the Arkansas General Assembly use the state’s budget surplus to create a public school system and a state university. Suffering from poor health, Conway resigned as governor in 1840 due to poor health. He passed away on March 3, 1855.

                Conway Cemetery State Park is located on grounds once part of Conway’s cotton plantation. While none of the plantation’s structures remain, several tombstones and gravesites of Conway family members stand. The earliest graves on the site date back to 1845. 

                Area residents initially maintained the cemetery, which also contains the graves of Conway’s wife, Mary Jane Bradley Conway, and more than forty other members of the Conway and Bradley families.

                A grassroots campaign led by the McCalman family of Walnut Hill helped persuade members of the Arkansas General Assembly to secure funds to preserve the historic cemetery. Legislation was passed in 1975 to authorize the state to acquire and develop the site. 

                The Conway Cemetery was listed on the National Register of Historic Places on November 23, 1977. On March 27, 1984, the cemetery was placed under the supervision of the Arkansas Department of Parks and Tourism in March 1984. The park was officially dedicated on March 29, 1986, as part of Arkansas’ sesquicentennial celebration. Since then, several improvements have been made to the site, including the installation of a paved parking lot, wooden fencing, and picnic tables. The park offers no amenities (such as camping and restrooms). Several interpretive signs have been erected which detail the life and accomplishments of James Conway.

                Beginning in 1985, the town of Bradley (Lafayette County) celebrated James Conway with an annual Gov. Conway Days festival held during the last weekend in March.

                While it may not have the popularity of a Petit Jean or Pinnacle Mountain or the scenery of a Mount Magazine or Queen Wilhemena, Conway Cemetery State Park is a must-visit for those interested in learning more about the Conway family.

Arkansas' Civil War

                For thirty days in April 1874, Arkansas experienced a civil war. This conflict is known in the history books as the Brooks-Baxter War. 

                The Brooks-Baxter War was fought between supporters of Joseph Brooks and Elisha Baxter. Both men had run for governor in 1872, with Baxter achieving a narrow victory over Brooks. During Reconstruction, Republicans dominated Arkansas politics. Brooks represented the “brindle-tail” wing of the Arkansas Republican party, while Baxter represented the “minstrel” or “carpetbagger” wing. 

                Ohio native Joseph Brooks was a Methodist preacher, newspaper editor, and Little Rock’s nineteenth postmaster. In 1865, Brooks moved to Helena (Phillips County) and leased a cotton plantation there. He began to organize freed slaves and recruited them to join the Republican Party. Brooks served as a delegate to Arkansas’ constitutional convention in 1868 and soon became the leader of the brindle-tail faction of the Arkansas Republicans. In 1872, the brindle-tails nominated Brooks as their candidate for governor.

                Meanwhile, North Carolinian Elisha Baxter moved to Batesville (Independence County) in 1852 and opened a mercantile store. Unfortunately for Baxter, the business was a failure. Baxter became involved in the Whig party and was elected mayor of Batesville in 1853. A year later, Baxter was elected as a state representative and served in the tenth Arkansas General Assembly. During the Civil War, Baxter joined the Union cause and organized and commanded the 4th Arkansas Mounted Infantry.

                In the spring of 1864, Gov. Isaac Murphy appointed Baxter to the Arkansas Supreme Court. In 1865, Baxter opened a law office in Little Rock with lawyer and politician, James Hinds. In 1868, Gov. Powell Clayton appointed Baxter to represent Arkansas’ first congressional district in the U.S. House of Representatives. 

                Baxter was narrowly elected governor over Brooks in 1872, in an election tainted by claims of fraud and intimidation. Brooks and his supporters contested the result in the courts, and in 1874, citing election fraud, a county judge declared Brooks the rightful victor. Although Brooks took control of the state’s government, Baxter refused to resign as governor. Thus, Arkansas now had two men claiming to be the state’s chief executive, creating confusion and chaos.

                Both Baxter and Brooks had militia forces that organized to support them in their fight to be Arkansas’ governor. The militias clashed back and forth in several violent incidents throughout central Arkansas. As the conflict continued, black Arkansans gravitated toward Brooks, while white Democrats began to throw their support behind Baxter in an attempt to end reconstruction in Arkansas. 

                The two militias regularly marched and sang through the streets of Little Rock, and the state’s capital city became a battleground. Former Confederate Brigadier-General James Fagan commanded Brooks's men, while former Confederate Colonel Robert C. Newton commanded Baxter's forces. Baxter's headquarters occupied the downstairs area of the Anthony House, a 22-room hotel on the southwest corner of Markham and Scott Streets. Brooks’ men set up camp at the state capitol building on West Markham Street on the Arkansas River.

                Ultimately, President Ulysses S. Grant intervened in the conflict and declared Elisha Baxter as Arkansas’ rightful governor. The Brooks-Baxter War ended on May 15, 1874.

                The conclusion of the Brooks-Baxter War was followed by a total restructuring of state government under Arkansas’ 1874 constitution. The reinstatement of Baxter and the ratification of the new state constitution marked the end of reconstruction in Arkansas. This resulted in a severely weakened Republican Party in the state, as Democrats seized power and controlled the state’s governorship for over ninety years.

                The lone remnant of the Brooks-Baxter War is a sixty-four-pound Civil War-era cannon used by pro-Baxter forces during the Brooks-Baxter War. The artillery piece is known as “Lady Baxter.” This historic cannon sits on the grounds of Arkansas’ first state capitol building, The Old State House, which now serves as Arkansas’ premier history museum.

The Duck Hunting and Rice Capital of the World

                

                Known as the “Duck Hunting and Rice Capital of the World,” the city of Stuttgart lies in Arkansas County and serves as one of its two county seats. Situated on Arkansas’ Grand Prairie, Stuttgart is located on U.S. Highway 165, approximately 45 miles southeast of Little Rock. As of the 2020 census, Stuttgart’s population was 9,326.

                Stuttgart was founded in 1880 by German native and Lutheran minister, Rev. George Adam Buerkle. Buerkle and family moved to the United States in 1852, originally settling in Woodville, Ohio. Buerkle and his family, along with a group of fellow German immigrants, came to the area which is now Stuttgart in 1878. In April 1880, he was appointed postmaster of the settlement’s new post office and needed a name for it. Buerkle chose Stuttgart in honor of the capital and largest city of the German state of Baden-Württemberg.

                In 1882, the Texas and St. Louis Railroad laid tracks and began operations in the small settlement. In 1884, the city was platted, however, Stuttgart did not initially thrive or prosper. Thomas Leslie, who came to the area in 1887, became a leader in the town and assisted with the start of its economic growth. For example, Leslie opened the first bank in Arkansas County and helped lead the expansion of railroad construction from Stuttgart to Gillett. Stuttgart was incorporated on April 19, 1889.

                Shortly after Stuttgart’s incorporation, residents elected Col. Robert Crockett as the city’s first mayor. Crockett was the eldest son of the legendary frontiersman and politician, David “Davy” Crockett. Robert Crockett had moved to Stuttgart from Memphis at the age of twenty-four.

                While it had been an agricultural town since its inception, Stuttgart’s most popular cash crop of rice was not grown in the area until 1902. As an experiment, local farmer Bill Hope planted a small plot of rice. The small plot yielded 139 bushels per acre. On March 9, 1907, Stuttgart Rice Mill Company was incorporated. The company’s mill was completed in October 1907 and reported a profit of $16,000 on the first season’s crops. The success of the mill began Stuttgart’s rise as the leading producer of rice in the world.

                Riceland Foods, the world's largest miller and marketer of rice, was founded in 1921, and is headquartered in Stuttgart. Producers Rice Mill, also one of the world’s largest millers and marketers of rice, is located in the city as well. Stuttgart is home to the University of Arkansas' Sen. Dale Bumpers National Rice Research Center, which is the largest rice research facility in the United States.

                Stuttgart is also home to the Grand Prairie Center, which is located on the campus of Phillips County Community College. The venue hosts several concerts and stage plays throughout the year. Several years ago, my wife and I attended a performance by the country music group, Restless Heart, at the Grand Prairie Center, and it is indeed a great place to hear live music.

                Not only is Stuttgart known for rice, but it’s just as famous for the great opportunities for duck hunting the area provides. With its abundance of flooded fields, swamps, and buckbrush reservoirs, Stuttgart is considered a prime location for duck hunting in the nation. The World’s Championship Duck Calling Contest has been held in the city since 1936 as part of the annual Wings Over the Prairie Festival. Mack’s Prairie Wings, a large retail store specializing in hunting and fishing products, is considered a must-see destination by sportsmen when visiting the area. 

                For history buffs seeking to learn more about the city, the Museum of the Grand Prairie in Stuttgart features exhibits on pioneer life and notable residents, and of course, rice production and waterfowl hunting.

                Whether you’re in town for duck hunting or just passing through the state’s grand prairie, Stuttgart has something for everyone to see and experience.

The Town of Many Firsts

                Formerly known as Old Davidsonville State Park, Davidsonville Historic State Park near Pocahontas (Randolph County) preserves the location of the frontier settlement of Davidsonville. Davidsonville was located in Lawrence County—one of the original counties created in the Arkansas Territory. The town was home to Arkansas’ first post office and county courthouse. 

                Founded in 1815, at the site of several log cabins and buildings, Davidsonville became a bustling riverport, as it was located where the Eleven Point River and the Spring River merge with the Black River. The town also became an important stop on the historic Southwest Trail. 

                Davidsonville was originally known as Lawrence after the county it served as the county seat of. The town was later renamed Davidsonville for John Davidson, a native North Carolinian, who represented Lawrence County in the territorial legislature.

                The first post office in what would become Arkansas began operating in Davidsonville in 1817. In 1820, the first federal land office in the Arkansas Territory was opened in the town. Another first for Davidsonville occurred in 1822, when the first courthouse in the Arkansas Territory, a two-story brick building, was built there. The census taken that year showed the town had 461 residents.

                However, as fast as the town grew, it was nearly abandoned by the mid-1830s. The Southwest Trail was moved to higher ground shortly after the town’s founding, thus greatly diminishing Davidsonville’s importance. In 1828, the federal land office was relocated to Batesville (Independence County). In 1829, the county seat and courthouse were moved to the newly formed town of Jackson. By the time Arkansas became the twenty-fifth state in June 1836, Davidsonville had become a ghost town.

                In March 1957, the Arkansas General Assembly voted to approve Act 148, which preserved the abandoned town’s site for a state park. However, funding for the park was not appropriated until 1979. Under the direction of the Arkansas Department of Parks and Tourism, Old Davidsonville State Park was built atop the former townsite. Today, the 163-acre park, now called Davidsonville Historic State Park, offers such amenities as a visitors' center, gift shop, picnic tables, pavilions, and playgrounds. Popular recreational activities in the park include camping, canoeing, hiking, and swimming. In 2016, the park’s visitors’ center underwent an extensive renovation featuring a replica of an 1820s hunter-trapper flatboat and a large display of historic finds from archeological digs at the old townsite. Archeological excavations are still conducted at Historic Davidsonville State Park and continue to uncover roads, streets, foundations, and various artifacts of early-frontier life in Arkansas. 

                Also located within the park boundaries are several historical markers, a walking trail at the old town site, and two pioneer cemeteries. In April 2014, two “ghost structures,” open frameworks that outline the appearance of a two-story dogtrot-style cabin and the two-story county courthouse, were erected on park grounds.

                Throughout the year, park interpreters offer several events for visitors, including the popular Ghosts of Old Davidsonville program held in late October and the biannual Black River Rendezvous in mid-September. The Ghosts of Old Davidsonville event is a one-night event, which includes concerts, food trucks, a hayride, and a bonfire. Historical reenactors portray the ghosts of residents who could have lived in Davidsonville and share legends and stories of the old town. At the Black River Rendezvous, presentations of mountain-man and Native American camps and traders are held, as well as demonstrations of frontier-era crafts and trades.

                Like all of Arkansas’ fifty-two state parks, admission to Davidsonville Historic State Park is free, but hours of operation vary throughout the year. For more information, contact the park’s visitors’ center at 870-892-4708 or visit its website at www.arkansasstateparks.com/parks/davidsonville-historic-state-park.

                If the early frontier history of Arkansas interests you or you’re simply looking for a beautiful place to spend the day, Davidsonville Historic State Park is certainly a must-see destination here in the Natural State.