Four Years of All Around Arkansas

            This year, the Saline Courier celebrates its 150th anniversary. And this week, I celebrate a milestone of my own: this column turns four years old.

            I’ve never claimed to be much of a mathematician, but by my count, that comes to 208 columns—208 opportunities to write about the people, places, and culture of my beloved home state.

            The idea for All Around Arkansas was born years ago when I worked in the tourism division of the Arkansas Department of Parks, Heritage, and Tourism. I served in the group travel section, where our three-person team promoted Arkansas to tour companies, travel writers, influencers, and conference planners across the country. We attended conventions, pitched destinations, and invited decision-makers to experience Arkansas firsthand—all with the hope of bringing more visitors and more economic impact to our state.

            Often, we hosted tours of some of Arkansas’s most well-known attractions, introducing guests to our history, culture, and, yes, a few tall tales along the way. As a native Arkansan with a deep love for our state’s stories, I was frequently tasked with serving as tour guide. I relished the chance to share the legends and lore that make Arkansas unique.

            But there were also stretches of downtime.

            As a child, I remembered watching “Travelin’ Arkansas,” a segment on KTHV Channel 11 hosted by Chuck Dovish. Dovish crisscrossed the state, spotlighting attractions and colorful stories. It was informative, entertaining, and unmistakably Arkansas. That memory sparked an idea: perhaps I could use my downtime to tell more of our state’s stories.

            At the time, Arkansas Tourism maintained a blog on its website, along with Facebook and Instagram pages. While those platforms highlighted beautiful photographs of iconic destinations, I couldn’t help but feel we were only scratching the surface. We regularly promoted places such as the Clinton Presidential Center, Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art, Johnny Cash’s Boyhood Home, and Crater of Diamonds State Park. All worthy destinations, certainly—but Arkansas is far more than a handful of well-known landmarks.

            There were countless untold stories in small towns and along back roads. I believed we could—and should—be sharing them. And I believed I knew someone who would be more than willing to tell them.

            One day, I approached my supervisor with a proposal. When traveling to conventions or delivering materials to welcome centers and state park visitor centers, I could also gather stories. I could write articles about interesting people and places, take photographs and record interviews. The content could be shared on the tourism website and social media channels.

            My supervisor loved the idea and encouraged me to pitch it to the communications director. She was supportive and said she would present it to upper management.

            Then came the waiting.

            Several days later, I was called into my supervisor’s office and given the news: the idea had been nixed. The explanation was familiar and bureaucratic—“It’s not in your job description.” I walked out disappointed but not defeated. The idea stayed with me.

            Fast forward to January 2022. After subscribing to the Saline Courier, that long-shelved vision resurfaced. What if a local newspaper were interested in a weekly column about Arkansas’s history, heritage, and culture? I emailed the publisher with my proposal. A few days later, he responded with interest and asked for a sample.

            For that first submission, I chose a place close to my heart: Pinnacle Mountain State Park. I had visited the park countless times over the years and once worked at its visitor center before moving into the tourism department. It felt like the perfect place to begin.

            Thankfully, the publisher agreed. Four years later, All Around Arkansas continues to appear not only in the Saline Courier, but in several other newspapers and magazines as well.

            The story of Arkansas is, ultimately, the story of all of us—those who came before, those who call it home today, and those who will shape its future. I am grateful to the Courier for giving these stories a home, and to you, the readers, who make it a point to join me each week.

            There are still countless overlooked stories waiting to be told in the Natural State. I intend to keep seeking them out, and I hope you’ll continue to ride along with me in the years ahead.

The Legend of the Haw Creek Witch

                On a winding road south of the small town of Pelsor (Pope County), Highway 123 descends into a narrow valley where a crystal-clear stream winds through rock ledges and a lush hardwood forest. Situated in this secluded spot is what appears to be an ideal place for a peaceful weekend retreat.

                The tranquility of the daytime is deceptive, however. When night falls, locals claim the atmosphere shifts dramatically. This change can be attributed to one of Arkansas’s most peculiar modern legends: the tale of the Haw Creek Witch.

                Unlike many Arkansas tall tales rooted in distant history, this particular story originates from a single interesting discovery. In the late twentieth century, some hikers stumbled upon an unusual arrangement of stones resembling a grave located behind the campground. Marking its head was a rugged stone inscribed with the words: “Here lies the Haw Creek Witch, 1829–1881.”

                Here's the problem — no historical records indicate that any woman (witch or otherwise) is buried there. No graveyards can be found nearby, and there are no documented homesteads or recorded nineteenth-century burials in the vicinity. Yet, this marker sits deep in the woods, far from well-maintained trails, seemingly placed for accidental discovery rather than formal visitation.

                Theories surrounding the site emerged quickly. Some suggest it belonged to a shunned mountain woman excluded from her community. Others speculate it was a folk healer unfairly blamed for local illness. A darker narrative implies she may have been killed out of fear of being a witch. However, none of these theories has been substantiated, and many researchers now lean towards the notion that the grave was likely just a prank. 

                Soon, campers began reporting strange occurrences. Some claim to have heard a woman weeping in the forest late at night. Others described footsteps circling their tents, rocks tossed from the darkness, or the persistent sensation of being watched from the tree line. Several visitors claimed their dogs refused to approach the wooded hillside behind the campground. There are no police reports, no injuries, and no confirmed paranormal events. Yet, the story continued to grow every time the tale was told.

                Part of the explanation may lie in the area itself. The Ozarks are far from silent after dark. Barred owls produce calls eerily similar to a human scream. Foxes emit sharp, high-pitched cries that sound like someone in trouble. Coyotes, bobcats, and even wind funneling through the narrow valley can create sounds that echo and distort in the forest. 

                What makes the Haw Creek Witch unusual among Arkansas legends is that the folklore seems to have formed in reverse. Most legends grow from an event and eventually become stories. Here, the physical object came first, and the narrative followed. The suggestion created the legend.

                Today, hikers still search for the marker. It has disappeared and reappeared over the years, sometimes rebuilt by visitors. Coins, stones, and small trinkets are occasionally left behind by those who find them. Even skeptics admit that encountering a grave dedicated to a witch deep in remote woods can be unsettling, particularly after sunset, when the valley darkens, and the forest grows loud.

                No verifiable haunting has ever been documented at Haw Creek Falls. Still, on cool autumn nights when fog settles over the creek, and owls call across the ridges, it becomes easy to understand why the story refuses to fade.

                Whether or not it’s a harmless prank, modern folklore, or simply imagination meeting isolation, the Haw Creek Witch has secured a place among the Natural State’s enduring mysteries, proof that a legend does not always need history to survive. Sometimes all it requires is a quiet forest, a lonely marker, and someone willing to tell the haunting story around a warm campfire.

Gulpha Gorge Campground and Park

                

                 It’s no secret that Hot Springs (Garland County) is my favorite city in my native state, and one of my favorite places there is Gulpha Gorge Campground. This beautiful spot has long been special to my wife and me, a place where we’ve spent countless afternoons with our Boston terriers, Stonewall and Dixie, splashing in the cool waters of Gulpha Creek. This past Saturday, we returned once again—this time introducing our new Boston Terrier puppy, Tucker, to a place that has become part of our story.

                The history of Gulpha Gorge stretches back more than two centuries. In 1804, President Thomas Jefferson commissioned Dr. George Hunter and William Dunbar to explore the Hot Springs area, surveying the newly acquired territory and documenting its scientific significance. After a 25-day journey, the expedition reached the confluence of what is now known as Gulpha Creek. In his journal, Dunbar referred to the stream as “Fourche à Calfat.” Over time, “Calfat” evolved into “Gulpha,” giving the creek its modern name.

                The campground itself came much later. In 1924, Colonel John Fordyce donated 16 acres of land to the federal government to establish a campground in Gulpha Gorge. The property included two rustic changing booths near a small swimming lake called Lake Lillian, named in honor of Fordyce’s wife. The small lake was created by a dam Fordyce had constructed on the creek, which was eventually removed, allowing the creek to flow freely. That gift laid the foundation for what would become one of Hot Springs National Park’s most beloved outdoor destinations.

                Today, Gulpha Gorge Campground sits in the heart of Hot Springs National Park, offering a rare blend of natural beauty and modern convenience. Although it is the only developed campground within the park’s boundaries, it has managed to retain a peaceful, wooded atmosphere. The gentle sound of Gulpha Creek, shaded campsites, and nearby hiking trails give the area the feel of a quiet forest retreat, all while remaining close to the city.

                The campground is relatively small, with around 40 campsites, but it is thoughtfully designed. Each site offers full hookups for RVs and trailers, including 30- and 50-amp electrical service, along with water and sewer connections. Picnic tables, grills, and fire rings make each campsite comfortable and inviting, while paved roads and RV pads simplify setup. Modern restrooms with flush toilets are available year-round, adding a level of comfort not always found in national park campgrounds.

                For hikers and outdoor enthusiasts, Gulpha Gorge Campground is an excellent starting point. The Gulpha Gorge Trail begins near the campground and climbs toward Hot Springs Mountain, offering scenic views and access to the park’s broader trail system, which spans more than 26 miles. Whether you’re looking for a short walk or a longer trek, these trails highlight the forested landscapes and rolling foothills of the Ouachita Mountains.

                There’s also plenty to enjoy without leaving the campground itself. During warmer months, wading in Gulpha Creek is a favorite activity for visitors of all ages. The shallow, clear water makes it especially inviting on hot summer days. Picnicking, birdwatching, and simply relaxing beneath the trees round out the experience, making Gulpha Gorge an ideal place to slow down and reconnect with nature.

                That said, Gulpha Gorge does not offer complete seclusion. Its proximity to Highway 7 and the edge of the city means that traffic noise can occasionally break the tranquility, and the close spacing of campsites can limit privacy. Still, most campers find these minor drawbacks are more than balanced by the campground’s convenience and accessibility.

                Reservations are required for all campsites and can be made through Recreation.gov. The campground is especially popular during peak seasons and holiday weekends, when sites tend to fill quickly. With a little planning, however, it’s possible to secure one of the coveted creekside sites, known for their peaceful views and soothing sounds of flowing water.

                Staying at Gulpha Gorge also puts visitors just minutes from historic downtown Hot Springs. After a morning hike, you can head into town to soak in one of the city’s famous bathhouses, explore local shops and restaurants, or take a scenic drive up Hot Springs Mountain Road. That drive leads to the Hot Springs Mountain Tower, a 216-foot steel observation tower that opened in 1983 and offers sweeping views of the surrounding landscape.

                In a region of Arkansas known for its lakes and forests, Gulpha Gorge Campground stands out by offering the best of both worlds: the calm beauty of a shaded creekside retreat and the charm of a historic city built around water and wellness. Whether you’re a seasoned camper or visiting for the first time, Gulpha Gorge invites you to slow down, explore more deeply, and discover why the Spa City has drawn hundreds of thousands of visitors for generations.