All Around Arkansas: Lake Chicot

            

            In previous columns, I’ve written about some of Arkansas’ beautiful mountains, rivers and lakes. We are blessed with an abundance of natural beauty and wonders. There’s many reasons why Arkansas was once known as “The Wonder State” and now “The Natural State.”

            One of those natural wonders is a body of water in southeastern Arkansas — Lake Chicot, which lies on the east side of Lake Village (Chicot County). If you’ve driven from Arkansas to the Gulf Coast for a beach vacation then chances are you’ve seen Lake Chicot. The Arkansas Tourism welcome center on the lake features a pier that provides an amazing view of Lake Chicot. It also has some of the friendliest staff and the cleanest restrooms you’ll ever use.

            Lake Chicot is not only the largest natural lake in the state, but it's also the largest oxbow lake in North America. About 300 years ago, the lake was part of the channel of the Mississippi River. Its name comes from the French word “chicot,” which in English means “full of cypress stumps.” If you’ve ever boated on or walked along the shores of Lake Chicot, then you’ve seen the many cypress stumps and trees that line its banks. The C-shaped lake is about 0.75 miles wide and 22 miles long.

            In the 1820s, land around Lake Chicot became populated with settlers who came to farm the fertile land of the Arkansas Delta. Several plantations sprung up in the area, the largest being Sunnyside Plantation. The cotton plantation was built around 1830 and was farmed with slave labor. After the Civil War ended in 1865, freed slaves farmed it into the 1890s. The plantation changed hands numerous times over the years and was eventually shut down and broken up in the 1940s. Today, a historical marker exists at its former site.

            On June 6, 1864, a Civil War battle known as the battle of Old River Lake was fought on the south shore of Lake Chicot. Union troops won the battle and forced the Confederates out of the Mississippi River area. The battle of Old River Lake is considered to be one of the final Civil War actions in Arkansas.

            Another interesting bit of history about Lake Chicot is that pilot Charles Lindbergh (most famous for his solo transatlantic flight in 1927) made his first nighttime flight in April 1923 over the lake. The Chicot Delphian Society put a concrete monument at Lindbergh's landing site in 1934.

            In 1957, the Arkansas Department of Parks and Tourism built a 211 acre-state park at Lake Chicot. The park features 122 campsites, 14 cabins, a swimming pool, boat launch ramp and a playground. The park also operates a marina that sells snacks, fuel and bait. Boats, motors and personal water craft are available to rent as well.

            If you’re looking to have a staycation in Arkansas or just want to spend some quality time in Mother Nature, Lake Chicot is the perfect place to go. And if you do find yourself in the area and love authentic soul food, be sure and check out Rhoda’s Famous Hot Tamales in Lake Village. While Mrs. Rhoda is famous for her tamales, everything she serves is as beautiful to the tastebuds as Lake Chicot is to the eye.

            A proud sixth-generation Arkansan, Darrell W. Brown is a lover of all things Arkansas. He lives on beautiful Lake Norrell in Saline County with his wife, Amy, and their two beloved Boston Terriers. Find him on Facebook and Instagram at AllAroundArkansas.

All Around Arkansas: McClard's Bar-B-Q

                

                Around 1996, I started dating a young lady whose family had a house at Lake Ouachita outside Hot Springs that we would frequent during summer weekends. Until then, I had only been to the city on family trips to Magic Springs theme park. So I wasn’t familiar with the barbecue restaurant they loved to visit: McClard’s Bar-B-Q. 

                I don’t remember the first time I went to McClard’s or what I ate, but it must have been amazing, and I’ve been a devoted customer for nearly 27 years.

                A few weeks ago, my wife and I went to the Spa City and had lunch at McClard’s. My favorite server, Jason, greeted us and took our order. I told Jason I had started writing a column about Arkansas history, legends and places and that I was planning to write about my favorite restaurant. After my wife and I enjoyed our amazing food, Jason took me to the back of the house and introduced me to Phillip McClard, the grandson of the restaurant's founders. 

                Phillip couldn’t have been nicer, posing for pictures and taking me on a guided tour, showing me the pit where the meat is slow cooked and the rooms where tamales are hand-rolled, coleslaw is freshly made and McClard's unique sauce is crafted before the crack of dawn. He also shared old photos and the origin story of this iconic Arkansas restaurant.

                In 1928, Phillip’s grandparents, Alex and Gladys McClard, operated the Westside Tourist Court, which was a combination motel, gas station and restaurant on Albert Pike Road in Hot Springs. When a visitor stayed at the motel and couldn't pay his $10 bill, he offered up a recipe for what he claimed was "the world's greatest barbecue sauce." Figuring that something was better than nothing, Alex and Alice accepted the recipe, and soon their barbecue business outgrew the tourist court and the gas station. 

                In 1928, the McClards’ Westside Tourist Court became Westside Bar-B-Q. Several years later in 1942, the McClards moved into the restaurant’s current location, a white-washed stucco building on Albert Pike not far from the original establishment.

                Best known for their ribs and fry platter and tamale spread, McClard’s has established itself as one of the nation’s most well-known barbecue restaurants. It has won numerous awards and been written about in hundreds of magazines. Many celebrities pass through its doors. The late Willard Scott, best known as the long-time weatherman on NBC’s "The Today Show," said McClard’s was the best barbecue he'd ever tasted. 

                But McClard’s biggest celebrity fan is none other than Arkansas native and former Arkansas governor and U.S. President Bill Clinton, who grew up in Hot Springs eating McClard’s and often had it catered to the White House. Clinton is also the only patron the restaurant will accept a reservation from.

                In June 2020, the family sold McClard’s Bar-B-Q to new owners. But the recipes and menu are still the same, as is the presence of Phillip McClard, who still works five days a week helping prepare the delicious food and secret sauce whose formula is known to a select few.

                Obviously, the young lady whose family took me to McClard’s didn’t turn out to be the love of my life. But I will be forever grateful to them for introducing me to one of mine — McClard’s Bar-B-Q.

         A proud sixth-generation Arkansan, Darrell W. Brown is a lover of all things Arkansas. He lives on Lake Norrell in Saline County with his wife, Amy, and their two beloved Boston Terriers. Find him on Facebook and Instagram at AllAroundArkansas.

All Around Arkansas: Lion Oil Company

 

            When oil was first discovered in El Dorado (Union County) in 1920, many people flocked to southern Arkansas in hopes of making their fortune. One such man was Thomas Harry “T.H.” Barton. The Texas native came to El Dorado and formed the El Dorado Natural Gas Co. In 1922, Barton purchased a small refinery in El Dorado and renamed his company the Lion Oil and Refining Co. Why the name “Lion Oil?” Stay tuned. 

             Initially, the refinery produced about 2,000 barrels of oil daily and had 25 employees. The company would grow larger in 1923 with the discovery of the nearby Smackover Oil Field, which created a huge petroleum boom. Lion acquired 1,700 acres of leases near Smackover (Union County) that produced 12,000 barrels of oil each day and built a 12-mile pipeline from Smackover to the El Dorado refinery. By 1925, Lion Oil had become the largest petroleum producer in the state.

             In 1929, Lion Oil began operating Lion branded gas stations across Arkansas, Louisiana and Mississippi. By 1932, Lion stations totaled 441. In 1939, Lion Oil became the first Arkansas corporation to be traded on the New York Stock Exchange. The company was eventually sold in 1955 to the Monsanto Chemical Corp. of St. Louis. 

             Around this time, Lion Oil stations reached their peak with about 4,500 operating across the southern United States. But by the mid-1970s, Monsanto absorbed the Lion stations into the Monsanto brand, and the Lion-branded stations and their mascot, Beauregard T. Lion, disappeared from the American landscape.

             Barton retired from the petroleum industry in 1959 but would continue to be an important figure in Arkansas. He helped establish what would become the Arkansas State Fair and donated heavily to the construction of the coliseum that bears his name on the fairgrounds in Little Rock. Barton Coliseum has played host to numerous concerts (including Elvis in April 1972), rodeos and other special events such as high school graduations throughout its long history. 

             Barton also donated to the University of Arkansas for Medical Sciences (UAMS) in Little Rock, Warner-Brown Hospital in El Dorado and numerous 4-H and Boys Clubs throughout the state. Barton died in December 1960 at age 79.

             Monsanto sold Lion Oil in 1975 to The Tosco Petroleum Corp. of California. By 1985, Lion was struggling financially and was about to cease operations completely. But Tosco was able to find a buyer, selling Lion to Ergon Refining Corp. of Jackson, Mississippi.

             Lion Oil still exists in El Dorado but is now operated under the umbrella of The Delek Group of Israel. The refinery still produces numerous petroleum products and employs around 500 people. Lion's headquarters are now located in Brentwood, Tennessee, and there are no Lion gas stations still in operation. But you can still find several abandoned stations — adorned with the Lion logo — throughout Arkansas and surrounding states. Vintage Lion Oil memorabilia such as signs, gas pumps and oil cans are highly prized by petroliana collectors. 

             In May, Delek threw a party for past and present Lion Oil employees at the Murphy Arts District in El Dorado to celebrate 100 years of refining oil at the Lion refinery.

             So why did Thomas Harry Barton name his company Lion Oil? Legend has it that Barton liked palindromes (words spelled the same forward and backward), hence the name Lion Oil. That Barton was a clever man.

            A proud sixth-generation Arkansan, Darrell W. Brown is a lover of all things Arkansas. He served several years with the Arkansas Department of Parks, Heritage and Tourism, and worked in all three divisions. He lives in Saline County with his wife and two beloved Boston Terriers. Find him on Facebook and Instagram at AllAroundArkansas.

All Around Arkansas: Reed's Bridge Battlefield

 

            Several columns ago I wrote about my longtime fascination with Civil War history — especially the battles and skirmishes fought here in the Natural State. At one time, I was so into all things Arkansas Civil War that I participated in a Civil War reenactment.

             Through my connections in the Arkansas living history community, I joined the Confederate artillery at a reenactment of the battle of Reed’s Bridge near Jacksonville (Pulaski County). I remember it being an extremely hot Saturday in August — made worse by the authentic wool uniform I was wearing. But it was fun and educational, and the realism of the uniforms and weaponry made it feel as though I was actually in a battle.

             For those not familiar with the battle, the action occurred on Aug. 27, 1863, alongside what is now Highway 161 on the banks of Bayou Meto, a tributary of the Arkansas River. (The battle is sometimes referred to as the battle of Bayou Meto.)

             The previous day, Union forces led by Brig. Gen. John Davidson clashed with Confederate forces led by Brig. Gens. Lucius Walker and John Marmaduke at Brownsville, north of present-day Lonoke.

             The battle began when Union troops from the 10th Illinois Cavalry Regiment ran into the Confederates about 5 miles from the Bayou Meto. Union forces caused the rebels to retreat for 2 miles. Marmaduke then deployed his army between Union troops and the river. A Union attack drove the Confederates back across a toll bridge over the river owned and operated by local resident John H. Reed.

             With his men safely across, Marmaduke ordered the toll bridge burned. But the two opposing forces spent the remainder of the day firing at one another along the Bayou Meto. Union troops retreated at sunset to their camp at Brownsville. According to Union records, seven men were killed and 38 were wounded. Confederate losses are not known.

             Although they had won the battle of Reed’s Bridge, the Confederates left the area and took up a new position about 5 miles from Little Rock. During the battle of Reed’s Bridge and the days afterwards, the relationship between Marmaduke and Walker completely fell apart, culminating in Walker's death in the Marmaduke-Walker duel on Sept. 6 near what is now North Little Rock. Marmaduke was arrested but released. He survived the war and later became governor of Missouri.

             After Union troops defeated the Confederates at the battle of Bayou Fourche (near the location of the present-day Clinton National Airport) on Sept. 10, 1863, Union Maj. Gen. Frederick Steele and his men marched into Little Rock and took control of the city.

             Today, much of Reed’s Bridge battlefield has been preserved by the Reed’s Bridge Battlefield Preservation Society and looks much as it did at the time of the battle. Replica buildings, cannons and interpretive markers dot the fields along the Bayou Meto, allowing visitors to learn more about the battle. Admission is free. Donations are accepted.

             As we all know, the American Civil War ended with the Confederates’ surrender in April 1865. But on a hot day in August 1863 at a toll bridge over a murky river in central Arkansas, the men in gray actually won. This allowed me — some 150 years later — to be on the winning side, even if the cannon I helped man didn’t really fire cannonballs.                 

            A proud sixth-generation Arkansan, Darrell W. Brown is a lover of all things Arkansas. He lives on beautiful Lake Norrell in Saline County with his wife, Amy, and their two beloved Boston Terriers. Find him on Facebook and Instagram at AllAroundArkansas.

All Around Arkansas: The Lost Resort of Monte Ne

 

              Since I was a young child, many things have fascinated me about my native state. Arkansas is full of interesting people, places and stories, but probably none more intriguing than the story of Coin Harvey and Monte Ne.

             Monte Ne was located near Rogers (Benton County). Throughout the years it was known by several names including Mountain Springs, Pettigrew’s Mill and Silver Springs.

             In October 1900, William Hope “Coin” Harvey came to the area and purchased 350 acres. Harvey was a somewhat famous man during the 1890s. He was a successful business owner, political consultant, teacher and author. His 1893 book, "Coin’s Financial School," sold more than 2 million copies.

             Harvey was also campaign advisor to William Jennings Bryan, the Democratic nominee for president in 1896. After Bryan’s loss, Harvey moved to Silver Springs, a place he'd visited while traveling across the country with the Bryan campaign.

             Harvey’s dream was to build a resort with hotels, restaurants, an amphitheater, banks, a university and other small businesses. He persuaded the postmaster to help get Silver Springs renamed to Monte Ne, a combination of Spanish and Omaha Indian words that together meant "mountain water."

             Construction on Harvey’s vision began in December 1900 with $52,000 of investors’ money and $42,000 of his own. The first structure completed was Hotel Monte Ne in April 1901 (the hotel’s three-story concrete tower is still visible near the shore of Beaver Lake).

             Eventually more hotels were built, as was a system of canals complete with gondolas imported from Italy to transport visitors around the resort. Harvey brought in famous musicians and comedians and held sporting events to attract tourists to Monte Ne. Golf courses, tennis courts and the first indoor heated pool in Arkansas were built as well.

             In 1929, Harvey made history by becoming the first Arkansan to run for the presidency. He formed his own political party, the Liberty Party, and held its nominating convention at Monte Ne. Harvey expected a crowd of 10,000 but only 786 members attended. Franklin D. Roosevelt won the 1932 presidential election with Harvey receiving a mere 800 votes.

             After his loss, Harvey’s fortunes and health rapidly declined. The Monte Ne resort became a ghost town amid Harvey's failure to properly manage its finances. He died in February 1936 with just $138 to his name, debts totaling $3,000 and no will. The remaining properties and structures of the resort were eventually sold off by the court. He was buried alongside his son, Robert, in a 40-ton concrete tomb located on private property near the Monte Ne boat launch on Beaver Lake

             In 1966, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers impounded the White River to create Beaver Lake. Water now covers much of what was left of the old resort. When the lake is low, a few remaining structures can be seen, such as the amphitheater and the retaining wall of the pyramid Harvey planned to build as a time capsule for future generations.

             If you’d like to see what Harvey looked like at his time of death, you can visit the Rogers Historical Museum and view his death mask — an actual plaster mold of Harvey’s head made by the manager of the local funeral home. Apparently, the man believed Harvey was such an important figure that a death mask should be made for the public to forever remember him by. It’s just another strange part of the fascinating tale of Coin Harvey and Monte Ne.            

            A proud sixth-generation Arkansan, Darrell W. Brown is a lover of all things Arkansas. He lives on Lake Norrell in Saline County with his wife, Amy, and two beloved Boston Terriers. Find him on Facebook and Instagram at AllAroundArkansas.