All Around Arkansas: The Action at Fitzhugh's Woods

                

                While most of Arkansas had been taken over by Union forces by spring 1864 and the capital city, Little Rock, remained firmly in the grasp of federal hands, there were still pockets of rebellion throughout Arkansas late in the Civil War.

                The site of one skirmish between Union and Confederates — Fitzhugh’s Woods in Woodruff County — is easily accessible to drivers along Arkansas Route 33. The fight preceded a renewed push by Confederates in the region in the summer of 1864.

                In March 1864, word reached Union commanders in Little Rock that Confederate Brigadier Gen. Dandridge McRae was actively recruiting rebels in the area between the White and Mississippi rivers. They also learned that McRae was being helped by 50 commissioned officers who had been left without commands due to Confederate desertions following the Union capture of Little Rock in September 1863. 

                McRae and company sought to bring the former soldiers back into Confederate ranks and use them in attacks against federal targets such as the Memphis to Little Rock Railroad.

                In an effort to squash McRae’s efforts, Union Major Gen. Frederick Steele sent Col. Christopher Andrews, commander of both the Third Minnesota Infantry Regiment and the Union garrison at Little Rock, along with 186 men of the Third Minnesota and 45 of the Eighth Missouri Cavalry to Woodruff County in late March. Northern troops on the steamboat, The Dove, arrived at Gregory’s Landing near Augusta on the White River at dusk. The garrison then advanced toward a reported Confederate campsite — only to find it recently deserted.

                Early morning on April 1, Union troops arrived in Augusta, where they learned that McRae’s main camp was actually at a plantation about 7 miles north of town. Andrews left a small band of forces to guard The Dove and then headed north with 160 men to find McRae and the rebels. 

                After marching 12 miles north of Augusta, Andrews decided to turn back toward town. While pausing at the Fitzhugh Plantation for a quick lunch, Federal troops were attacked by Confederates under the command of Col. Thomas R. Freeman and Capt. John Bland. 

                The Union repelled the surprise rebel attack and then hurried south on the road to Augusta. But the Confederates attacked again at the forested land along the White River known as Fitzhugh’s Woods, named for the nearby settlement of Fitzhugh and the plantation located there.

                The attacking Confederate groups consisted of soldiers under the commands of Freeman and Bland, along with companies under Confederate Captains George Rutherford, Sam McGuffin, Jesse Tracy and James Reynolds. In total, the rebels had a combined force of about 600 cavalrymen. 

                The Confederates struck Andrews’ men from the front, left and rear, but the Federal soldiers stood their ground and fended off their attackers in a lengthy firefight that left both sides low on ammo.

                Andrews’ Union command suffered eight killed, sixteen wounded and five missing or wounded. McRae listed his losses as 20 to 25 killed and mortally wounded and 60 to 75 wounded. 

                The fight at Fitzhugh’s Woods slowed McRae’s attempts to recruit soldiers or reenlist deserters into the Confederate ranks. It would not be until the summer that Confederate Brigadier General J.O. Shelby would implement a draft and begin attacks against Union troops in the region.

                The area of Fitzhugh’s Woods where much of the fighting took place was added to the Arkansas Register of Historic Places by the Department of Arkansas Heritage in December 2003. 

                Today, you can find the official listing, a historic marker, two panels interpreting the battle and a replica cannon at the site. The marker and panels can be seen on your right when traveling north from the intersection of Arkansas Route 33 and Woodruff Road (County Road 165).

All Around Arkansas: The Arkansas State Fair

                Although the color of the leaves and the temperatures aren’t reflecting it, fall is upon us, and that means college football, the smell of pumpkin spice everything and the Arkansas State Fair. 

                In the next several days, thousands of Arkansans will make the annual pilgrimage down Roosevelt Road in Little Rock for jumbo corn dogs, concerts, free stuff in the Hall of Industry and lots of people-watching.

                Officially named the Arkansas State Fair and Livestock Show, the current incarnation of the state fair started in 1938. But long before then, there were several attempts to establish a centralized fair for Arkansas. 

                In November 1867, the Arkansas State Agricultural and Mechanical Association was created. One of its top goals was to establish a state fair. Arkansas’ first state fair was held in Little Rock from Nov. 17–20, 1868. The fair was located at what is now the corner of Center and 17th streets. 

                In May 1881, the State Fair Association of Arkansas was incorporated. The organization used 110 acres on East 9th Street in Little Rock for the state fair until the start of World War I in 1914. 

                State fair archives show that a “state fair” was held at Oaklawn Park (now the site of Oaklawn Racing Casino Resort) in Hot Springs in 1906. Another was held at Fair Park (now the location of the Little Rock Zoo and War Memorial Stadium) in Little Rock in 1922.

                In the late 1930s, a group of leaders in the state’s agriculture industry formed the Arkansas Livestock Show Association. The group decided to sponsor a public livestock exposition to help educate farmers and to promote Arkansas’ livestock industry. The Arkansas Livestock Show was held Nov. 9–13, 1938, in North Little Rock. The show was not a success — only 17,000 people attended and the show lost $23,000. 

                The following year, officials decided to move the event back a month for better weather. And along with the time change, promoters brought in world-famous celebrity cowboy Roy Rogers to make an appearance. They also added carnival rides and food, making the livestock show now a full-fledged statewide fair. 

                The annual event would stay in North Little Rock for three more years until a fire destroyed its facilities the day after the fair’s end in 1942. As a result, the state fair was moved to Pine Bluff in 1943. But it would be the only time the state fair was held in that city. Officials canceled the event in 1944 and 1945 due to World War II.

                In 1944, Little Rock city leaders made a proposal to the Arkansas Livestock Show Association to permanently move the fair to the state’s capital on the land where War Memorial Stadium stands today. But the association didn’t like the location and rejected the city’s offer. In 1945, the Little Rock Chamber of Commerce offered the Arkansas Livestock Show Association several acres on Roosevelt Road, and this time, the association said yes. In the years to come, the association expanded the fairgrounds, and now the Arkansas State Fairgrounds Complex consists of 135 acres. The property was added to the National Register of Historic Places in January 2022.

                Construction of an arena on the fairgrounds began in 1948, and was completed in 1951. The structure, Barton Coliseum, was named for Col. Thomas H. Barton, the founder and president of Lion Oil Co. in El Dorado. Barton contributed money to help build the arena and served as the livestock association’s president for many years. 

                The 83rd annual Arkansas State Fair started on Friday, Oct. 13, and runs through Sunday, Oct. 22. As always, there’s lots of rides, animals, concerts, rodeos and, of course, the fair food. 

                For information on dates and times, admission costs and a schedule of events, visit www.arkansasstatefair.com. And should you go to this year’s fair, you’ll go knowing how this annual Arkansas fall tradition began.

All Around Arkansas: War Eagle Mill

                My wife is a native Texan, and one of her favorite spots to visit in the Natural State is War Eagle Mill near Rogers. In fact, several of her Lone Star State relatives travel with her to the yearly festival held at War Eagle, one of the most scenic and nostalgic sites in northwest Arkansas. 

                Even if you’ve never visited War Eagle Mill, chances are you’ve seen the photos — it's one of the most photographed places in the state. 

                Its authentic, water-powered gristmill is the latest reproduction of a mill that has perched on the banks of the War Eagle River since the 1830s. When it was completed in 1973, War Eagle Mill was the first new gristmill built in Arkansas in nearly a century.

                The site has long been an important center of activity. Sylvanus Blackburn, an early settler, miller and blacksmith, built the first mill on the War Eagle River in the early 1840s. 

                A flood washed away the mill in 1848, but Blackburn replaced it in time to grind grain that fed the Union and Confederate armies during the early years of the Civil War. Following his devastating loss at the battle of Pea Ridge, Confederate Gen. Earl Van Dorn marched his retreating army past the mill in March 1862.

                Like many structures in Arkansas during the Civil War, War Eagle Mill was destroyed by fire and wasn’t rebuilt until after the war’s end. When the Blackburn family returned to the site in 1865, only their house was still standing. 

                Sylvanus' son, James Blackburn, rebuilt the mill, putting it back into operation by 1873. After winning a seat in the Arkansas State Senate, James sold the mill to the Kilgore family, who operated it until 1924, when the mill once again burned down. The disaster left only the foundation and a few other remnants.

                In 1973, Jewel Medlin bought the mill property from the Kilgores. Medlin and his wife, Leta, and daughter, Zoe, found a set of original blueprints and rebuilt the mill for the final time. 

                Standing at three stories tall, the mill today offers a variety of exhibits, as well as fun shopping and dining experiences. Visitors can see the mill in operation and buy natural whole grain products, as well as cereal and flour that are milled and sold on site. Products produced at the mill are also available for purchase online.

                Next to the mill is the War Eagle Bridge, one of the most historic and well-known spans in Arkansas. Visitors love walking on the wooden flooring of the bridge and the beautiful views of the mill and river.

                War Eagle Mill is home to one of the most popular arts and crafts festivals in the southern U.S. The War Eagle Mill Arts and Craft Fair began in 1954 as a way for crafters from across the Ozarks to sell their homemade wares.

                The next festival will be held Oct. 19-22. For more information, visit the fair’s website at www.wareaglefair.com or call 479-789-5398.

                War Eagle Mill is located about 10 miles from Rogers and 25 miles southwest of Eureka Springs. The mill is open to the public seven days a week for most of the year except in January and February, when its weekends only.

                If you enjoy beautiful Ozark Mountain scenery, old bridges, fine dining and shopping and seeing how things were made in the “good ol’ days,” then a drive to War Eagle Mill would be time and money well spent.

                Darrell W. Brown is a proud sixth-generation Arkansan who loves learning and writing about our state's history and culture. He and his wife, Amy, live on beautiful Lake Norrell in Saline County with their beloved Boston Terrier, Dixie. Brown is a public school educator in Bryant, ordained minister and syndicated columnist.

All Around Arkansas: Pea Ridge National Military Park

                On March 7-8, 1862, more than 23,000 Union and Confederate troops clashed at the battle of Pea Ridge near modern-day Rogers in the largest Civil War battle in Arkansas history. The battle decided the fate of Missouri and was the turning point of the war in the Trans-Mississippi Theater. Most Civil War historians agree that Pea Ridge was the most pivotal battle west of the Mississippi River.

                The Union forces at Pea Ridge were commanded by Brig. Gen. Samuel Curtis, while Maj. Gen. Earl Van Dorn led the Confederates. Van Dorn and his men launched a counteroffensive in which they attempted to recapture northern Arkansas and Missouri for the Confederacy. But against all odds, Curtis and his troops held off the Confederate attack, and on the second day drove Van Dorn's forces completely off the Pea Ridge battlefield. By handily defeating the Confederates, Curtis and his soldiers established federal control of Missouri and much of north Arkansas.

                Arkansas lawyer, educator and prominent Freemason Albert Pike served as a senior officer in the Confederate Army at the battle of Pea Ridge and commanded the Indian Territory District (present-day Oklahoma). After the battle, allegations were made claiming that Indian soldiers under Pike’s command scalped enemy soldiers. Official records related to the investigation show Pike "regarded [the incident] with horror," and that he was personally "angry and disgusted.”

                In the aftermath of the Civil War, Union and Confederate veterans held several reunions at the Pea Ridge battlefield, the first taking place in 1887. The reunions helped keep the memory of the dead alive and facilitate healing between the once-opposing soldiers of each army. At the early reunions, money was raised to help buy monuments to honor the dead, which still stand.

                In 1956, the Arkansas’ congressional delegation pushed for legislation to make the Pea Ridge battlefield a national military park under the jurisdiction of the National Park Service. On July 20, 1956, the U.S. Congress voted to accept a 5,000-acre donation of land from the state. As a result of the donation, the 4,300-acre Pea Ridge National Military Park was officially created by an act of the Congress and was dedicated as a national park in 1963.

                To acquire land for the park, the government purchased or used eminent domain on farms and homes in the area. Many houses and other structures were sold and moved off of park property. The National Park Service demolished all other remaining structures except for the Elkhorn Tavern.

                The Pea Ridge battlefield was listed on the Department of the Interior’s National Register of Historic Places on Oct. 15, 1966.

                Pea Ridge National Military Park is considered by experts as one of the best-preserved Civil War battlefields in the nation. Some of the park’s amenities include a visitor center and a state-of-the-art museum that houses numerous battlefield artifacts. The park also features hiking trails, a self-guided driving tour and the restored Elkhorn Tavern. A 2.5-mile section of the Trail of Tears is located within the park’s boundaries.

                Elkhorn Tavern, the park's centerpiece, is a two-story, wood-frame structure that was built in 1833 and served as ground zero at the battle of Pea Ridge. In fact, the battle of Pea Ridge is often referred to as the battle of Elkhorn Tavern. The building is actually a replica built in 1865, as the original Elkhorn Tavern was set ablaze by bushwhackers in January 1863. The replica was built on the original building's foundation and includes the original chimney.

            For more information on the park and battle, visit the National Park Service’s website at www.nps.gov/peri/index.htm.

            While Pea Ridge may not be as famous as other Civil War battlefields as Gettysburg or Vicksburg, it’s definitely worth visiting if you’re a Civil War buff.