The Arkansas Museum of Natural Resources

            

            The Arkansas Museum of Natural Resources near Smackover (Union County) showcases the compelling story of oil and bromine production in southern Arkansas, focusing on the historic oil boom of the 1920s. The museum not only delves into the history of these resources from their ancient origins to modern times but also highlights the impact of this significant period in Arkansas history.

            During the 1920s, national attention was drawn to this region, as the Smackover Oil Field rose to prominence, ranking first among the nation’s oil fields with an impressive yearly production of sixty-nine million barrels in 1925. This area experienced one of the most rapid mineral booms in North America, with a staggering success rate of ninety-two percent in drilling 1,000 wells within the first six months, leading to the exponential growth of Smackover.

            However, the lack of conservation laws resulted in the escape of natural gas and the pollution of the landscape by saltwater, leading to the decline of the oil boom by the early 1930s. Despite this, south Arkansas oil fields continue to produce petroleum, albeit at a slower rate.

            The Arkansas Museum of Natural Resources’ origins can be traced back to 1975, when a group of visionaries envisioned a place to preserve and interpret Arkansas’s oil history. Subsequently, in 1977, the Arkansas General Assembly passed Act 310, which imposed a tax on the state’s oil production to fund the museum’s construction and operation. Additionally, in 1979, the legislature imposed a tax on brine, a saltwater often found alongside oil deposits and a source of bromine extraction. Notably, bromine, a vital chemical used in various industries, is derived from this brine.

            In 1980, Jack Turner donated nineteen acres in Smackover as a site for the Arkansas Oil and Brine Museum. Initially known by this name, the museum was later renamed the Arkansas Museum of Natural Resources in 1997 and is operated by the Arkansas Department of Parks, Heritage, and Tourism.

            The museum’s exhibition center spans 25,000 square feet and houses an array of captivating displays. Visitors can explore vintage photographs, an auditorium showcasing two videos, a unique exhibit called “Center of the Earth,” a geologic time scale and fossil exhibit, and life-size representations of roughnecks working an oil derrick. Additionally, there are exhibits on family life in the oil fields, vintage gas pumps, and petroleum company signs.

            One of the museum’s highlights is a high-tech elevator that takes visitors on a journey through time, from a Jurassic period sea floor to the Industrial Revolution. An adjoining exhibit focuses on the evolution of oil consumption from 1922 to modern times, offering a fascinating perspective. Moreover, visitors can peer from a replica of the Rogerson Hotel’s second-floor veranda overlooking a re-created, boom-era street scene in Smackover, complete with numerous storefronts, a jail, a newspaper office, mannequins in period dress, and vintage automobiles.

            Outside, the center’s Oilfield Park features operating examples of oil-producing technology from the 1920s to the present day, including a 112-foot wooden derrick similar to the one at the original Busey No. 1 Well in El Dorado. For those interested in seeing an active oil field, the museum’s staff has prepared maps for either six- or fifteen-mile driving tours of the Smackover field, revealing remnants of early production such as salt flats. The field is conveniently located just north of the museum.

For further details regarding the Arkansas Museum of Natural Resources, contact the museum’s office at 870-725-2877 or visit its website at www.amnr.org.

The Precious Town of Jasper

             

   

                Nestled in Newton County, the charming town of Jasper is truly a sight to behold. Surrounded by the natural wonders where the Buffalo River, the nation's first national river, begins its graceful journey, Jasper exudes a quaint and picturesque allure. With over one-third of the county under government ownership, the town is a haven for those seeking solace in nature's embrace.

                Jasper's roots trace back to 1840, when it was established as a village along the Little Buffalo River. Early settlers, drawn to the area as early as 1825, left their mark on the village, as evidenced by census records from 1850. The town's evolution took a significant turn in 1843, when the first postmaster, John Ross, relocated his family to Jasper, establishing a trading post and leaving an indelible mark on the town's history.

                The town's significance was further solidified on Dec. 14, 1842, when Gov. Archibald Yell signed legislation creating Newton County from land in Carroll County, designating Jasper as the county seat in 1843. From 1843 to 1849, Ross played a pivotal role in various town offices, from postmaster to county judge, leaving an enduring legacy in Jasper's history.

                Amidst the turmoil of the Civil War, the community bore witness to the rise of two distinguished figures, each championing a different cause. James Vanderpool, a celebrated Union veteran, returned home in August 1865, while John Cecil, the former sheriff of Newton County, gained notoriety for displaying his twin pearl-handled pistols as a Confederate guerrilla leader. Although Newton County predominantly supported the Union, the year 1863 saw Union troops setting Jasper ablaze in their pursuit of Cecil, relocating sympathizers to Springfield, Missouri.

                In the aftermath of the Civil War, Jasper burgeoned into a bustling hub. Abundant timber, particularly oak for stave bolts and cedar for pencil mills, spurred local sawmills to employ hundreds of men. The town flourished to such an extent that it boasted five newspapers. Census records between 1880 and 1900 reveal that Newton County's population surged from 6,120 to 12,538. On Dec. 19, 1895, the inhabitants of Jasper petitioned the county court for incorporation as a town.

                The origins of the name Jasper are shrouded in legend, with at least three stories in circulation. According to one oft-repeated tale, Cherokee Indians bestowed the name upon the town in appreciation of the warm hospitality they received while traveling west along the Trail of Tears. Another version of this account involves a cherished ring, housing a jasper stone, presented to John Ross as a token of gratitude for his kindness towards the Cherokee travelers. Alternatively, it is said that Ross coined the name by likening the mellow hue of the local stone to jasper, one of the twelve precious stones mentioned in the New Testament book of Revelation.

                Situated in the center of the Ozark Mountains, Jasper and its surrounding area offer a large variety of outdoor activities, making it an ideal destination for adventure seekers. From hiking and canoeing to caving and rock climbing, there's truly something for everyone. The region is also renowned for its elk population, with approximately 450 elk making their home in the Buffalo River corridor and beyond, earning Newton County the title of Elk Capital of Arkansas.

                One of Jasper's most famous attractions is the Arkansas Grand Canyon, a stunning natural marvel that beautifully combines picturesque landscapes and native fauna.

                Recognized by American Cowboy magazine as one of the "Five Spots for Family Reunions" in Sept. 2012, Jasper boasts a charming downtown square adorned with a picturesque courthouse and inviting gazebos. Each year, the Buffalo River Elk Festival draws visitors to celebrate the successful reintroduction of elk to the area.

                For travelers embarking on Arkansas Scenic Byway 7, a feast for the eyes awaits as the route winds through the county from north to south. Jasper's proximity to Harrison, Russellville, and Branson makes it a convenient stop for those exploring northwest Arkansas. 

                If you are in the vicinity, don't miss the opportunity to uncover the hidden gem of Jasper, a true treasure in the Natural State.

Arkansas' Westminster Abbey

                

                Mount Holly Cemetery in Arkansas' capital city of Little Rock (Pulaski County) is known as the state’s Westminster Abbey. The nickname is well-deserved, considering the multitude of individuals of great significance in art, literature, politics, and religion who have found their final resting place there. The cemetery contains the gravesites of eleven Arkansas governors, thirteen Arkansas Supreme Court justices, four United States senators, four Confederate generals, and twenty-one former Little Rock mayors. 

                The cemetery's long and storied history dates back to February 1843, when the land was deeded by two prominent Little Rock citizens, attorneys Chester Ashley and Roswell Beebe, to the city of Little Rock. Situated on a four-square-block site between 11th and 13th streets and from Broadway to Gaines Street, the cemetery became the major burial ground after private family cemeteries and a public burial ground were utilized for interments before its establishment. Numerous grave markers with dates preceding the formation of Mount Holly reflect reinterments from a previous location.

                In 1877, feeling that the cemetery was not receiving the care it deserved, a group of businessmen in Little Rock established a cemetery commission. This commission administered the cemetery for almost forty years until a group of the town’s women took over the responsibility due to their dissatisfaction with its neglected appearance. The ladies formed the Mount Holly Cemetery Association, which was incorporated in 1915, and has continued to oversee the management of the cemetery.

                Records from 1940 indicated that Arkansas had fewer foreign-born residents than any other state in the union, a fact reinforced by the cemetery's burial index, indicating that the majority of early decedents were native-born. Over the years, specific sections of the cemetery were designated for Catholic and Jewish burials, reflecting the diverse history of the area. Notably, a portion of the cemetery was set aside for the internment of African Americans as early as 1843.

                Thus, Mount Holly Cemetery stands not only as a final resting place but also as a site rich with historical and cultural significance, telling the stories of the people who have shaped the state's past.

                The cemetery's serene atmosphere is accentuated by its assortment of old roses, mature trees, and intricately crafted signs that guide visitors through its narrow pathways. The elegant Victorian era is captured in the diverse architectural styles and grave markers adorned with intriguing motifs and epitaphs.

              

                Notable features within the cemetery include the rare white bronze markers, created only between 1875 and 1915, and the exquisite cemetery furniture, including aged cast iron pieces and ornate iron fencing enclosing select burial plots. Among the remarkable monuments, the Albert Pike family marker stands out as a work of art designed by the renowned Robert Eberhard Launitz, considered the pioneer of monumental art in America.

                A captivating nineteenth-century cast iron fountain, produced by the J. L. Mott Company of Bronx, New York, has adorned the cemetery since 2002, adding a touch of history and elegance. To accommodate the growing popularity of cremation, a columbarium was constructed in 2003 on the western side of the fountain.

                Since October 1995, student actors from Parkview High School’s speech and drama department in Little Rock have dressed up in period-correct costumes and performed short monologues and dialogues from the lives of those buried in Mount Holly Cemetery. The event, Tales from the Crypt, is held every second Sunday in October. This year, the event will be held on October 6 from 2-4 p.m., with the last tour starting at 4 p.m. The family-friendly event is free, but donations are accepted and appreciated.

                For more information about the Tales from the Crypt event and the cemetery, visit its website at www.MountHollyCemetery.org.

Lake Maumelle

                

                Last Saturday, my wife, mother-in-law, and I drove to Russellville (Pope County) to welcome the newest addition to the Brown family—an adorable three-month-old Boston Terrier named Tucker. Departing from our home on Lake Norrell, we opted for the scenic route along Highway 10 to reach our destination. Hailing from Texas and unfamiliar with this part of the Natural State, my mother-in-law was particularly astounded by the magnitude and splendor of the body of water we drove past on Highway 10—Lake Maumelle. 

                The origins of Lake Maumelle can be traced back to the post-World War I growth of Little Rock and its surrounding suburbs. At that time, it became evident that the drinking water supply from Lake Winona in northwestern Saline County was insufficient to meet the increasing demand. Consequently, construction of a dam on the Big Maumelle River commenced in 1956, and the lake was ultimately completed in March 1959, covering approximately 8,900 acres.

                The creation of Lake Maumelle necessitated the relocation of fifty families from the small community of Crossroads, which was home to several churches, schools, and stores. As part of the relocation process, graves in the local cemetery were transferred, and many families resettled in Roland and Natural Steps.

                Both the lake and the river that was impounded to create it were named after the original appellation of nearby Pinnacle Mountain, initially referred to as Mamelle by nineteenth-century French explorers due to its resemblance to a female breast. The Big Maumelle River runs to the north of Pinnacle Mountain, while the Little Maumelle River flows to the south of the mountain.

                Central Arkansas Water took on the responsibility of managing the upkeep of the lake and its surrounding watershed. Throughout the years, the organization has negotiated with property owners near the lake, resulting in several agreements. These agreements encompass a range of regulations, including the prohibition of tree clearance on the land, restrictions on the development of hotels, condominiums, or restaurants in the lake's proximity, and the requirement for property owners to obtain specific permission before commencing any construction. Moreover, the use of animal waste as fertilizer is expressly banned. Financial incentives are in place to encourage the replacement of septic tanks with sewer lines, diverting household waste away from the watershed area. 

               While fishing and certain types of boating are permitted on the lake, activities such as swimming, wading, and specific watercraft operations are prohibited.

                Over the years, Lake Maumelle has become a beloved spot for sail boating enthusiasts, and is renowned for its vibrant sailing regattas. The lake is home to Grande Maumelle Sailing Club, a nonprofit organization that boasts a clubhouse, pavilion, docks, keelboat slips, as well as amenities for trailered sailboats including a boat ramp and crane.

                Lake Maumelle and the Big and Little Maumelle Rivers are inhabited by a variety of fish species, such as bass, crappie, bream, catfish, mussels, and other aquatic life. The area is also home to many birds and other wildlife, particularly within the Ouachita National Forest. The U.S. Forest Service allocated $4 million in 2012 to safeguard four miles of forest along the river outside the national forest, enhancing environmental protection. Additionally, the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission established a wildlife management area and signed a ninety-nine-year lease with Central Arkansas Water in 2013 to preserve the river and lake.

                Nearby Pinnacle Mountain State Park offers eagle-watching cruises on Lake Maumelle during the fall months. The tours are open to all ages and cost between $10 and $15 per person. They typically last about an hour and a half. For further details about the cruises, contact the park’s visitor center at (501) 868-5806.

                If you happen to find yourself in central Arkansas and are looking to immerse yourself in our state's breathtaking natural scenery, I highly recommend taking the drive along Highway 10 to behold one of the most beautiful and pristine bodies of water in the Natural State—Lake Maumelle.