All Around Arkansas: McClard's Bar-B-Q

                

                Around 1996, I started dating a young lady whose family had a house at Lake Ouachita outside Hot Springs that we would frequent during summer weekends. Until then, I had only been to the city on family trips to Magic Springs theme park. So I wasn’t familiar with the barbecue restaurant they loved to visit: McClard’s Bar-B-Q. 

                I don’t remember the first time I went to McClard’s or what I ate, but it must have been amazing, and I’ve been a devoted customer for nearly 27 years.

                A few weeks ago, my wife and I went to the Spa City and had lunch at McClard’s. My favorite server, Jason, greeted us and took our order. I told Jason I had started writing a column about Arkansas history, legends and places and that I was planning to write about my favorite restaurant. After my wife and I enjoyed our amazing food, Jason took me to the back of the house and introduced me to Phillip McClard, the grandson of the restaurant's founders. 

                Phillip couldn’t have been nicer, posing for pictures and taking me on a guided tour, showing me the pit where the meat is slow cooked and the rooms where tamales are hand-rolled, coleslaw is freshly made and McClard's unique sauce is crafted before the crack of dawn. He also shared old photos and the origin story of this iconic Arkansas restaurant.

                In 1928, Phillip’s grandparents, Alex and Gladys McClard, operated the Westside Tourist Court, which was a combination motel, gas station and restaurant on Albert Pike Road in Hot Springs. When a visitor stayed at the motel and couldn't pay his $10 bill, he offered up a recipe for what he claimed was "the world's greatest barbecue sauce." Figuring that something was better than nothing, Alex and Alice accepted the recipe, and soon their barbecue business outgrew the tourist court and the gas station. 

                In 1928, the McClards’ Westside Tourist Court became Westside Bar-B-Q. Several years later in 1942, the McClards moved into the restaurant’s current location, a white-washed stucco building on Albert Pike not far from the original establishment.

                Best known for their ribs and fry platter and tamale spread, McClard’s has established itself as one of the nation’s most well-known barbecue restaurants. It has won numerous awards and been written about in hundreds of magazines. Many celebrities pass through its doors. The late Willard Scott, best known as the long-time weatherman on NBC’s "The Today Show," said McClard’s was the best barbecue he'd ever tasted. 

                But McClard’s biggest celebrity fan is none other than Arkansas native and former Arkansas governor and U.S. President Bill Clinton, who grew up in Hot Springs eating McClard’s and often had it catered to the White House. Clinton is also the only patron the restaurant will accept a reservation from.

                In June 2020, the family sold McClard’s Bar-B-Q to new owners. But the recipes and menu are still the same, as is the presence of Phillip McClard, who still works five days a week helping prepare the delicious food and secret sauce whose formula is known to a select few.

                Obviously, the young lady whose family took me to McClard’s didn’t turn out to be the love of my life. But I will be forever grateful to them for introducing me to one of mine — McClard’s Bar-B-Q.

         A proud sixth-generation Arkansan, Darrell W. Brown is a lover of all things Arkansas. He lives on Lake Norrell in Saline County with his wife, Amy, and their two beloved Boston Terriers. Find him on Facebook and Instagram at AllAroundArkansas.

All Around Arkansas: Lion Oil Company

 

            When oil was first discovered in El Dorado (Union County) in 1920, many people flocked to southern Arkansas in hopes of making their fortune. One such man was Thomas Harry “T.H.” Barton. The Texas native came to El Dorado and formed the El Dorado Natural Gas Co. In 1922, Barton purchased a small refinery in El Dorado and renamed his company the Lion Oil and Refining Co. Why the name “Lion Oil?” Stay tuned. 

             Initially, the refinery produced about 2,000 barrels of oil daily and had 25 employees. The company would grow larger in 1923 with the discovery of the nearby Smackover Oil Field, which created a huge petroleum boom. Lion acquired 1,700 acres of leases near Smackover (Union County) that produced 12,000 barrels of oil each day and built a 12-mile pipeline from Smackover to the El Dorado refinery. By 1925, Lion Oil had become the largest petroleum producer in the state.

             In 1929, Lion Oil began operating Lion branded gas stations across Arkansas, Louisiana and Mississippi. By 1932, Lion stations totaled 441. In 1939, Lion Oil became the first Arkansas corporation to be traded on the New York Stock Exchange. The company was eventually sold in 1955 to the Monsanto Chemical Corp. of St. Louis. 

             Around this time, Lion Oil stations reached their peak with about 4,500 operating across the southern United States. But by the mid-1970s, Monsanto absorbed the Lion stations into the Monsanto brand, and the Lion-branded stations and their mascot, Beauregard T. Lion, disappeared from the American landscape.

             Barton retired from the petroleum industry in 1959 but would continue to be an important figure in Arkansas. He helped establish what would become the Arkansas State Fair and donated heavily to the construction of the coliseum that bears his name on the fairgrounds in Little Rock. Barton Coliseum has played host to numerous concerts (including Elvis in April 1972), rodeos and other special events such as high school graduations throughout its long history. 

             Barton also donated to the University of Arkansas for Medical Sciences (UAMS) in Little Rock, Warner-Brown Hospital in El Dorado and numerous 4-H and Boys Clubs throughout the state. Barton died in December 1960 at age 79.

             Monsanto sold Lion Oil in 1975 to The Tosco Petroleum Corp. of California. By 1985, Lion was struggling financially and was about to cease operations completely. But Tosco was able to find a buyer, selling Lion to Ergon Refining Corp. of Jackson, Mississippi.

             Lion Oil still exists in El Dorado but is now operated under the umbrella of The Delek Group of Israel. The refinery still produces numerous petroleum products and employs around 500 people. Lion's headquarters are now located in Brentwood, Tennessee, and there are no Lion gas stations still in operation. But you can still find several abandoned stations — adorned with the Lion logo — throughout Arkansas and surrounding states. Vintage Lion Oil memorabilia such as signs, gas pumps and oil cans are highly prized by petroliana collectors. 

             In May, Delek threw a party for past and present Lion Oil employees at the Murphy Arts District in El Dorado to celebrate 100 years of refining oil at the Lion refinery.

             So why did Thomas Harry Barton name his company Lion Oil? Legend has it that Barton liked palindromes (words spelled the same forward and backward), hence the name Lion Oil. That Barton was a clever man.

            A proud sixth-generation Arkansan, Darrell W. Brown is a lover of all things Arkansas. He served several years with the Arkansas Department of Parks, Heritage and Tourism, and worked in all three divisions. He lives in Saline County with his wife and two beloved Boston Terriers. Find him on Facebook and Instagram at AllAroundArkansas.

All Around Arkansas: Reed's Bridge Battlefield

 

            Several columns ago I wrote about my longtime fascination with Civil War history — especially the battles and skirmishes fought here in the Natural State. At one time, I was so into all things Arkansas Civil War that I participated in a Civil War reenactment.

             Through my connections in the Arkansas living history community, I joined the Confederate artillery at a reenactment of the battle of Reed’s Bridge near Jacksonville (Pulaski County). I remember it being an extremely hot Saturday in August — made worse by the authentic wool uniform I was wearing. But it was fun and educational, and the realism of the uniforms and weaponry made it feel as though I was actually in a battle.

             For those not familiar with the battle, the action occurred on Aug. 27, 1863, alongside what is now Highway 161 on the banks of Bayou Meto, a tributary of the Arkansas River. (The battle is sometimes referred to as the battle of Bayou Meto.)

             The previous day, Union forces led by Brig. Gen. John Davidson clashed with Confederate forces led by Brig. Gens. Lucius Walker and John Marmaduke at Brownsville, north of present-day Lonoke.

             The battle began when Union troops from the 10th Illinois Cavalry Regiment ran into the Confederates about 5 miles from the Bayou Meto. Union forces caused the rebels to retreat for 2 miles. Marmaduke then deployed his army between Union troops and the river. A Union attack drove the Confederates back across a toll bridge over the river owned and operated by local resident John H. Reed.

             With his men safely across, Marmaduke ordered the toll bridge burned. But the two opposing forces spent the remainder of the day firing at one another along the Bayou Meto. Union troops retreated at sunset to their camp at Brownsville. According to Union records, seven men were killed and 38 were wounded. Confederate losses are not known.

             Although they had won the battle of Reed’s Bridge, the Confederates left the area and took up a new position about 5 miles from Little Rock. During the battle of Reed’s Bridge and the days afterwards, the relationship between Marmaduke and Walker completely fell apart, culminating in Walker's death in the Marmaduke-Walker duel on Sept. 6 near what is now North Little Rock. Marmaduke was arrested but released. He survived the war and later became governor of Missouri.

             After Union troops defeated the Confederates at the battle of Bayou Fourche (near the location of the present-day Clinton National Airport) on Sept. 10, 1863, Union Maj. Gen. Frederick Steele and his men marched into Little Rock and took control of the city.

             Today, much of Reed’s Bridge battlefield has been preserved by the Reed’s Bridge Battlefield Preservation Society and looks much as it did at the time of the battle. Replica buildings, cannons and interpretive markers dot the fields along the Bayou Meto, allowing visitors to learn more about the battle. Admission is free. Donations are accepted.

             As we all know, the American Civil War ended with the Confederates’ surrender in April 1865. But on a hot day in August 1863 at a toll bridge over a murky river in central Arkansas, the men in gray actually won. This allowed me — some 150 years later — to be on the winning side, even if the cannon I helped man didn’t really fire cannonballs.                 

            A proud sixth-generation Arkansan, Darrell W. Brown is a lover of all things Arkansas. He lives on beautiful Lake Norrell in Saline County with his wife, Amy, and their two beloved Boston Terriers. Find him on Facebook and Instagram at AllAroundArkansas.

All Around Arkansas: The Lost Resort of Monte Ne

 

              Since I was a young child, many things have fascinated me about my native state. Arkansas is full of interesting people, places and stories, but probably none more intriguing than the story of Coin Harvey and Monte Ne.

             Monte Ne was located near Rogers (Benton County). Throughout the years it was known by several names including Mountain Springs, Pettigrew’s Mill and Silver Springs.

             In October 1900, William Hope “Coin” Harvey came to the area and purchased 350 acres. Harvey was a somewhat famous man during the 1890s. He was a successful business owner, political consultant, teacher and author. His 1893 book, "Coin’s Financial School," sold more than 2 million copies.

             Harvey was also campaign advisor to William Jennings Bryan, the Democratic nominee for president in 1896. After Bryan’s loss, Harvey moved to Silver Springs, a place he'd visited while traveling across the country with the Bryan campaign.

             Harvey’s dream was to build a resort with hotels, restaurants, an amphitheater, banks, a university and other small businesses. He persuaded the postmaster to help get Silver Springs renamed to Monte Ne, a combination of Spanish and Omaha Indian words that together meant "mountain water."

             Construction on Harvey’s vision began in December 1900 with $52,000 of investors’ money and $42,000 of his own. The first structure completed was Hotel Monte Ne in April 1901 (the hotel’s three-story concrete tower is still visible near the shore of Beaver Lake).

             Eventually more hotels were built, as was a system of canals complete with gondolas imported from Italy to transport visitors around the resort. Harvey brought in famous musicians and comedians and held sporting events to attract tourists to Monte Ne. Golf courses, tennis courts and the first indoor heated pool in Arkansas were built as well.

             In 1929, Harvey made history by becoming the first Arkansan to run for the presidency. He formed his own political party, the Liberty Party, and held its nominating convention at Monte Ne. Harvey expected a crowd of 10,000 but only 786 members attended. Franklin D. Roosevelt won the 1932 presidential election with Harvey receiving a mere 800 votes.

             After his loss, Harvey’s fortunes and health rapidly declined. The Monte Ne resort became a ghost town amid Harvey's failure to properly manage its finances. He died in February 1936 with just $138 to his name, debts totaling $3,000 and no will. The remaining properties and structures of the resort were eventually sold off by the court. He was buried alongside his son, Robert, in a 40-ton concrete tomb located on private property near the Monte Ne boat launch on Beaver Lake

             In 1966, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers impounded the White River to create Beaver Lake. Water now covers much of what was left of the old resort. When the lake is low, a few remaining structures can be seen, such as the amphitheater and the retaining wall of the pyramid Harvey planned to build as a time capsule for future generations.

             If you’d like to see what Harvey looked like at his time of death, you can visit the Rogers Historical Museum and view his death mask — an actual plaster mold of Harvey’s head made by the manager of the local funeral home. Apparently, the man believed Harvey was such an important figure that a death mask should be made for the public to forever remember him by. It’s just another strange part of the fascinating tale of Coin Harvey and Monte Ne.            

            A proud sixth-generation Arkansan, Darrell W. Brown is a lover of all things Arkansas. He lives on Lake Norrell in Saline County with his wife, Amy, and two beloved Boston Terriers. Find him on Facebook and Instagram at AllAroundArkansas.

All Around Arkansas: Arkansas' Spooklights

     

    

            Across the southern part of the United States there is a phenomenon known as “spooklights.” Spooklights are defined as unexplained lights that tend to appear around old railroad tracks, battlefields and other areas where tragedies and deaths have occurred. And of course, our very own state of Arkansas has its fair share of spooklights.

            One famous Arkansas spooklight is the Gurdon Light, which is known for appearing above the railroad tracks near Gurdon (Clark County.) Longtime local folklore says that around 1931, a railroad worker named William McClain was killed along the train tracks. After McClain’s death, a strange orb began to appear. 

            McClain, a foreman with the Missouri-Pacific Railroad, supposedly had an argument with co-worker, Louis McBride. McBride became angry and struck McClain upside the head with a shovel before beating him to death with a railroad spike. Many local residents have claimed that the mysterious light appears from the lantern belonging to McClain's ghost. The story caught the nation’s attention when NBC's "Unsolved Mysteries" traveled to Gurdon to investigate and film a re-creation of the 1931 murder. The program aired in December 1994.

            Twelve miles south of Little Rock, on Woodson Lateral Road near Hensley (Pulaski County) there’s another strange light that makes frequent appearances. The light is described by those who have seen it as a motorcycle headlight. 

            For years it has been said that the light belongs to the motorcycle of a young man who had a fatal accident on the blacktop road. Another tale claims that a young couple riding a motorcycle on their way home from their senior prom died in a wreck, and the couple continues to search for one other along the road. But many residents believe the light is simply the result of the chemical reaction of natural swamp gas reflecting off vehicle and motorcycle headlights. Woodson Lateral is a popular place to visit for people to visit, especially on the scariest night of all, Halloween.

            Finally, the Crossett Light appears in an area where railroad tracks once laid outside Crossett (Ashley County). Local legend claims that the light is caused by the lamp of a railroad worker who was beheaded in an accident in the early 1900s, and now he walks along the tracks to find his lost head. 

           According to witnesses, the light is most often seen floating about three feet above the ground and moves into treetops and sometimes side to side. The light reportedly disappears if one walks toward it but later reappears far away, making it impossible to get an up-close look. 

            The Crossett Light’s color has been reported to change from yellow to orange and blue or green. Similar to the Woodson-Lateral Road light, one explanation for the cause of the light is the reflection of car headlights off the swamp gas, a natural phenomenon in the area. But there is one major flaw in that explanation, which is that the light was first reported in the early 1900s before vehicles were common in the area. 

            If you would like to see the Crossett Light for yourself, it’s often at the intersection of Ashley roads 425 and 16. Walk along the old railroad bed and face south.

            Several years ago, my wife and I traveled to Crossett to attend a wedding. I wanted to go out that night to see the Crossett Light for myself. I swear I saw the light, but my wife claims it was just a car headlight. Thankfully, the Tooth Fairy, Santa Claus, and the Fouke Monster agree with me and not her.

    A proud sixth-generation Arkansan, Darrell W. Brown is a lover of all things Arkansas. He served several years with the Arkansas Department of Parks, Heritage and Tourism, and worked in all three divisions. Find him on Facebook and Instagram at AllAroundArkansas.

All Around Arkansas: The Kellogg Silver Mines

 

One of three known pictures of the Kellogg Mines. Courtesy of the Arkansas Geological Comm.

Growing up in northern Pulaski County near Kellogg Road, I had always heard stories of silver mines that once existed along Kellogg Creek. Was there silver below the hallowed grounds of my youth? After doing some digging (not for silver), I learned that in fact, there was, at least at one time.

 The story of the Kellogg Mines begins in 1819, when a blacksmith from Pennsylvania, Benjamin Kellogg, moved to Little Rock. Kellogg and his wife lived in Little Rock for 10 years, then moved several miles north of the Arkansas River. There, they started a farm on 1,000 acres that Kellogg purchased near Batesville Pike, one of Arkansas’ oldest roads, which stretched from present-day North Little Rock to Batesville.

 According to a written report made in 1919 by Kellogg’s son, Jonathan, in 1840, his father discovered lead ore in a ravine near a creek on his land. Crawfish had been working in the mud and exposed the shiny metal after the water in the ravine had washed off the dirt. With a miner’s pick, Kellogg dug up some of the ore. After having it tested as positive by the Arkansas Geological Commission, Kellogg saw the potential to make a fortune.

 The first mine on Kellogg’s land was opened in late-1840 by Thomas C. Newton, who leased land from Kellogg. Newton’s heirs would be instrumental in founding the city of Argenta, “Argentum” being the Latin word for silver. Argenta is now North Little Rock.

 Operations at the Kellogg Mines from 1840 to 1861 yielded up to 500 tons of lead and silver concentrate, valued at $90 to $100 per ton. The miners crushed the ore by hand and, since there were no railroads in the area, were forced to build a smelter to melt the ore.

 Kellogg died in July 1848. In 1849, gold was discovered in California, which attracted most of the miners and speculators using Kellogg’s land. As a result, most of the work at the Kellogg Mines was abandoned.

 In 1861, the Confederate government of Arkansas took control of the Kellogg Mines. In September 1863, Union forces seized the area after the fall of Little Rock and the surrounding area and destroyed the mine installations.  

 After the war ended in 1865, the Pulaski Mining and Smelting Co., owned by Dudley Jones, leased the property from Kellogg’s heirs and resumed mining. But their operations proved unsuccessful, and they shut down after a couple of years. 

 In June 1893, James P. Clarke, a lawyer from Little Rock, purchased the majority of the property containing the mines from Kellogg’s son, Jonathan.  Clarke then formed the Little Rock Mining Co. and operations resumed once again. Clarke’s attention to his new mining company was soon diverted; he was elected Arkansas governor in 1894 and, in 1902, U.S. senator.

 The final operation at the Kellogg Mines began in 1923 under a lease from Clarke’s estate. Extensive underground workings reached a depth of about 1,100 feet until the mine finally closed in 1926. That same year, the heirs of Clarke’s estate sold the former Kellogg property to real estate developer Justin Matthews. Matthews built several homes and a country club in the area in the late 1920s as part of his development of the Sylvan Hills community. Unfortunately, the Great Depression hit, and Matthews was forced to halt his plans.

 Today, several subdivisions are built on top of the old mines and no trace remains of them except for Mine Road, which crosses Kellogg Road. Is there still silver underneath those fancy new houses on Benjamin Kellogg’s old land? I doubt we’ll never know.

 A sixth-generation Arkansan, Darrell W. Brown is a lover of all things Arkansas. He lives on Lake Norrell in Saline County with his wife, Amy, and two beloved Boston Terriers. You can find him on Facebook and Instagram at AllAroundArkansas.

All Around Arkansas: Lake Norrell

 

                Having grown up in Arkansas, I thought I knew of every lake, river and stream in the Natural State. But in 2017, I found out I was mistaken.

                My wife and I had grown up going to various lakes during the summer and considered ourselves “lake people.” Several years into our marriage we began to look for a place on a lake. One day while I was at work at Pinnacle Mountain State Park, my wife called and said our real estate agent had found a home on Lake Norrell. My response was: “Where in the world is Lake Norrell?” She explained that it was in Saline County, about 40 minutes west of Little Rock and 30 minutes north of Benton. Neither I nor any of my coworkers had ever heard of such a place.

                  Long story short, we made the drive from our home in Sherwood to Lake Norrell and immediately fell in love with the beautiful lake and bought the home. After a couple of years of using the home as a weekend and holiday place, we sold our house and moved to Lake Norrell full-time.

                For those who don’t know, Lake Norrell is a 280-acre lake located near the community of Avilla. The lake holds 2.5 billion gallons of water and has about 12 miles of shoreline. It’s owned by Benton Utilities. 

                Lake Norrell was created by the city of Benton as a backup water source by impounding Brushy Creek. Construction on the earthen dam began in 1953 by Jeffery Lawrence & Tilley of Fort Smith and completed in April 1954. 

                The dam cost $300,000 to build and was funded in part by a tax approved by Benton residents, in conjunction with a federal appropriation obtained by an Arkansas congressman — William Frank Norrell — for whom the lake is named. 

                In April 1990, the Department of Health discovered that in 1954, the C.W. Lewis Lumber Co. (co-owned by the chairman of the Benton Utilities Board of Commissioners) had unlawfully sold the original 68 lots around Lake Norrell with septic tanks despite being told this was illegal. The Department of Health decided the resulting pollution left the lake unsuitable as a water source. Therefore, the decision was made to use the water of Lake Norrell solely to keep the Saline River flowing. Around 2005, a local timber company sold much of its property bordering Lake Norrell for residential use. 

            Today, Lake Norrell is stocked with fish by the Arkansas Game & Fish Commission, which also maintains a free public boat launch ramp. All boats are allowed, except for ballast boats, which were recently banned by the city of Benton at the urging of lake residents. Many residents complained the lake’s shoreline was being eroded by the large waves created by the boats. And while there is no official park, swimming and picnicking is allowed near the spillway and launch ramp. 

            One famous former part-time resident of Lake Norrell was country music legend Charlie Rich. In the 1960s and '70s, Rich had a home near the launch ramp that still stands today. A long-standing rumor is that Rich wrote his hit song, “Behind Closed Doors,” at the cabin. But Rich — a vocalist and piano player — was not a songwriter and never penned an original piece.

            But that doesn’t stop me from playing Rich’s songs on my boat radio every time we pass by the old cabin. My personal favorite is “Rollin’ With the Flow,” because that’s what we do at beautiful Lake Norrell.

           A sixth-generation Arkansan, Darrell W. Brown is a lover of all things Arkansas. He lives on the subject of today’s column with his wife, Amy, and two beloved Boston Terriers. You can find him on Facebook and Instagram at AllAroundArkansas.

All Around Arkansas: A Return to Boggy Creek

 

            On Father's Day weekend, my wife and I headed to Texarkana, Texas, to visit my in-laws. Knowing I had written a column on the Fouke Monster, aka the Boggy Creek Monster, and that I had an interest in the mysterious figure, my father-in-law suggested I go to Fouke, Arkansas, (about 20 miles from Texarkana) that Saturday to the Fouke Monster Festival. Always up for a festival, my mother-in-law said she’d go and we were able to persuade my wife to join us.

             But the man who suggested we attend the festival didn't go, opting to stay inside his air-conditioned house and watch the Razorbacks instead of partaking in the Fouke Monster fun.

             So the three of us took the short drive to the small town of Fouke, which on this day was the center of the sasquatch universe. There were hundreds of vehicles in the parking lot of the community center where the festival is held each year. Inside, there were people everywhere, including vendors selling everything and anything with the Fouke Monster, Bigfoot or sasquatch on it. From T-shirts to action figures to movie prop-quality costumes, there was something for everyone.

             I quickly got caught up in the hoopla, buying a “Boggy Creek Monster, Fouke, Arkansas” T-shirt and a decal for my Yeti (the tumbler — not the monster). But I didn’t realize I was making a purchase from one of the celebrities of the Fouke Monster phenomenon, Lyle Blackburn. 

            Blackburn has made a living by writing and selling books and other wares featuring the Fouke Monster, as well as traveling the country giving presentations at Bigfoot conventions. It was only after I gave him $30 for my souvenirs did I hear the fans in line behind me ask for photos and autographs.

            On the opposite side of the building from where the vendors and concessionaires were located where rows of metal chairs full of people watching the 1972 cult-classic film, “The Legend of Boggy Creek.” The screening would be followed by several speakers, including actors from the movie.

            Heading out of town, we stopped at the Monster Mart, which is part-convenience store and part-Fouke Monster museum. While you can purchase the typical gas station fare, Monster Mart items have their famous hairy mascot plastered all over them. My wife and mother-in-law could stand it no more and had to buy themselves and my father-in-law Fouke Monster shirts. My mother-in-law even purchased a couple of homemade monster claw-shaped cookies and a refrigerator magnet. 

            The Monster Mart's one-room museum featured blurry photos and plaster casts of the feet of the alleged beast, as well as movie posters, newspaper clippings and a life-size replica of the monster for photo-ops. Did my mother-in-law and I get a photo? You bet your happy Fouke Monster we did!

            As we left Fouke, we made one last stop — the legendary Boggy Creek — where the monster has been said to roam all these years. It was quite hot at this point in the day, but there were people taking photos and wandering around hoping to catch a glimpse of the famed creature. 

            The monster’s absence might be because he doesn't like socializing or the scorching south Arkansas heat. That Boggy Creek Monster sounds like my kind of guy. We might even become friends, like in "Harry and the Hendersons."

 And to my dear readers, I wish you all a happy and safe Independence Day weekend.

            A sixth-generation Arkansan, Darrell W. Brown is a lover of all things Arkansas. He lives on Lake Norrell in Saline County with his wife, Amy, and two beloved Boston Terriers. You can find him on Facebook and Instagram at AllAroundArkansas.

All Around Arkansas: Gambling and the Spa City

           

           

            From the mid-1920s to the late 1960s, Hot Springs was considered to be the "Las Vegas of the South." Gangsters and tourists, freshly bathed in hot mineral water, roamed the streets to frequent local casinos, bars, restaurants and places of ill-repute (Maxine’s was a favorite). They even bowled together in harmony at an underground bowling alley beneath Central Avenue. (I’ve personally seen it and yes, it’s very cool!)            

            Notorious gangsters like Al Capone, Lucky Luciano and Owney Madden (owner of the Cotton Club in New York City and also co-owner of The Vapors Club in Hot Springs) could be seen at the Southern Club (now a wax museum), the Ohio Club (Arkansas’ oldest bar and home to an amazing burger), The Vapors Club (which became a church and now operates as an entertainment venue) and other clubs on Central and Park Avenues. Capone had his own personal suite directly across from the Southern Club in the Arlington Hotel (Room 443), which was also a favorite choice of lodging of many of the gangsters, as was the nearby Majestic Hotel.

            While gambling was illegal in Arkansas, government and law enforcement officials looked the other way. Many of them made money on the side and also realized that gambling was good for city tourism. While there were attempts by religious leaders and some politicians to end gambling in the city, their efforts were futile.

            By the early 1960s, the Spa City ranked third in the nation for visitors, including many who came during horse racing season and for the illegal but in-your-face gambling opportunities. At one time, Hot Springs had more than 70 establishments offering some form of gambling.  

            But the sounds of slot machines and excited shouting at the tables came to an abrupt end in 1967 when Gov. Winthrop Rockefeller stopped illegal gambling in Hot Springs, ordering Arkansas State Troopers to confiscate the machines and tables and burn them publicly. While the bathhouses and race track were still popular, the end of gambling almost destroyed the town financially, and many say it never recovered from the glory days.

            With the exception of the Ohio, the old clubs are now gift shops or vacant. The Majestic Hotel burned to the ground in February 2014.

            But the Arlington Resort Hotel & Spa, purchased by new owners in 2017, remains open for guests and is undergoing a $50 million renovation. Oaklawn Racing Casino Resort is more popular than ever now that legal gambling has come to Arkansas; it unveiled a $100 million expansion in 2021 that includes a full casino and resort-style hotel. 

            And Hot Springs is still home to many great restaurants, such as The Porterhouse, The Pancake Shop, and my all-time favorite, McClards’ BBQ. While the clandestine casinos and clubs are long gone, there's still much to see and do in the "Valley of the Vapors."

            If you want to experience the history of Hot Springs gambling, visit the History of Hot Springs Gambling Museum at 3339 Central Avenue, Suite C. The museum was started six years ago by three gambling memorabilia collectors: Lanny Beavers, Chris Hendrix and Tony Frazier, who decided to combine their collections of slot machines, tables, chips and more to create the museum. Inside, you'll also find a collection of vintage Hot Springs memorabilia from clubs like the Southern Club and The Vapors and legendary restaurants like Coy’s Steak House and the Belvedere. Admission is free, but the museum is only open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.

        The museum's owners are hospitable and love to share their knowledge of Hot Springs’ past. Every machine is free to play, but unfortunately, you don’t get to keep any winnings. That stays with the house. Doesn’t it always?

        A sixth-generation Arkansan, Darrell W. Brown is a lover of all things Arkansas. He lives on Lake Norrell in Saline County with his wife, Amy, and two beloved Boston Terriers. You can find him on Facebook and Instagram at AllAroundArkansas.

All Around Arkansas: Arkansas' State Flag

            

             Just like the other 49 states, Arkansas has many state symbols. We have a state bird (mockingbird), a state tree (pine), a state flower (the apple blossom) and a state seal.

            Most of these symbols were created by some state legislator with not much else to do. But there is one state symbol created out of necessity, and it’s one that you probably see every day — the Arkansas state flag.

             Although Arkansas became the 25th state of the union in June 1836, it didn’t have an official state flag until February 1913. The U.S. Navy had built a battleship named the U.S.S. Arkansas, and the Pine Bluff chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution voted to present the official colors of the state to the commandant of the ship. There was just one problem — Arkansas had no such flag for the ladies to present.

             Apparently, no government official (or any Arkansan for that matter) felt the need for Arkansas to have its own flag. So the women contacted Arkansas’ then-Secretary of State, Earl Hodge, about their organization sponsoring a contest for an official state flag. Hodge gave his blessing and agreed to be the custodian of the entries.

             The contest received about 65 submissions. Some designs were crayon and pencil drawings on paper, while some were miniature flags on silk. Black bears appeared on several entries because Arkansas once had a massive black bear population — so much so that its original nickname before the “Land of Opportunity” and the “Natural State” was the “Bear State.” Humorously, one design featured a wooden fence post with the word "Arkansas" written on it, representing Arkansas’ first settlement, Arkansas Post.

            In early 1913, Hodge and four other judges chose a design entered by Willie Kavanaugh Hocker of Wabbaseka, who just happened to be a member of the Pine Bluff DAR chapter.

            On a red rectangular field, Hocker placed a large white diamond (symbolizing Arkansas as the only diamond producing state) bordered by 25 white stars (symbolizing Arkansas as the 25th state) on a blue band. Her original design had three blue stars in a straight line centered in the diamond. Hocker explained that the red, white and blue colors meant that Arkansas was one of the United States. The three blue stars represented the three countries that Arkansas had belonged to: France, Spain and the United States. The two parallel white stars at the left and right points of the diamond symbolized the dual admission of Arkansas and Michigan to the Union.

            Hocker’s design became the official state flag on Feb. 26, 1913, by a vote of the Arkansas General Assembly. Finally, the U.S.S. Arkansas received its flag from the Pine Bluff DAR chapter.

             In 1924, the state Legislature changed Hocker’s design by adding the word "Arkansas" to the center and placing the three blue stars below it and one above to represent that Arkansas was part of the Confederate States of America. The flag has since remained unchanged.

            There have been few attempts to change the meaning of the Confederate star or to abolish it altogether. But those attempts have been as successful as the Ford Edsel and “New” Coke. You young’uns might have to Google those references.

         A sixth-generation Arkansan, Darrell W. Brown is a lover of all things Arkansas. He served with the Arkansas Department of Parks, Heritage, and Tourism for over six years. Brown lives on Lake Norrell in Saline County with his wife, Amy, and two beloved Boston Terriers. You can find him on Facebook and Instagram at AllAroundArkansas.

All Around Arkansas: Lake Catherine State Park

            

           

        Regular readers of this column know my affinity for the Arkansas parks system. Not only did I grow up going to many of them, but I worked for the Department of Parks, Heritage and Tourism for more than six years. I actually worked in a state park (Pinnacle Mountain), and during my time in the tourism division I was able to visit all 52 state parks. Add the fact that my paternal grandfather was in the Civilian Conservation Corps as a young man and helped build several of our state’s first parks, and you could say a love of Arkansas state parks was in my DNA from the beginning.

        One park that my grandfather, Festus Floyd “Bud” Brown, helped build was Lake Catherine State Park, situated along the south shore of Lake Catherine, 13 miles southeast of Hot Springs.

        The park’s namesake was created when Arkansas Power & Light (now Entergy Arkansas) dammed the Ouachita River with the Remmel Dam, which was completed in December 1924. The dam was named after Col. Harmon Remmel, who helped AP&L founder Harvey Couch get a permit from the federal government to dam the river. Lake Catherine was named for Couch’s daughter.

        With a donation of 2,220 acres from Couch and AP&L to the state of Arkansas, Lake Catherine State Park was one of the original four state parks built in the Natural State in the mid- to late-1930s, along with Petit Jean, Devil’s Den and Buffalo River, which was absorbed into the Buffalo National River when the federal government’s park was established in 1972. 

        Lake Catherine State Park was built by the young men of the CCC in 1937, and several of the structures they built still stand and are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. During World War II from 1942 to 1945, Lake Catherine State Park served as a satellite facility for wounded servicemen from the U.S. Army and Navy hospital in downtown Hot Springs. In 1943, German prisoners of war were brought in to complete structures left unfinished by the CCC after the federal government diverted resources to the war effort.

        The park has 20 fully furnished cabins and 70 hook-up campsites, six primitive tent sites and one Rent-a-Yurt. A word of advice — if you’re looking to stay in one of the park’s rustic cabins or even camp, be sure and check availability first by calling the park’s visitors’ center at (501) 844-4176. Both the cabins and campsites tend to fill up quickly, especially during the summer.

        Park interpreters offer hikes, guided lake tours and other interpretive programs year-round. Along with camping and lodging, the park also offers a launch ramp, pavilion, several picnic sites, a swimming beach, playgrounds and three hiking trails. One of the most photographed sites in the park is located at the end of one of those trails — the Falls Creek waterfall, which is especially beautiful after a hard rain.

        The park also operates the only full-service marina on Lake Catherine. There you can purchase boat fuel, bait, snacks, drinks, sunscreen and everything you'll need for a day on the water. Pontoon and fishing boats can be rented at the marina, along with kayaks, canoes and pedal boats.

        When I worked at parks and tourism we had a slogan that appeared in marketing materials and even on bumper stickers: “Go play in your own backyard!” Amid high gas prices and inflation, many Arkansans will no doubt be playing in their own backyard this summer, and I can’t think of a better place for a “staycation” than beautiful Lake Catherine State Park, one of the true gems of Arkansas’ state park system. I’m sure my grandpa would agree.

         A proud sixth-generation Arkansan, Darrell W. Brown is a lover of all things Arkansas. He lives on beautiful Lake Norrell in Saline County with his wife, Amy, and two beloved Boston Terriers. You can find him on Facebook and Instagram at AllAroundArkansas.

All Around Arkansas: The Battle of Jenkins' Ferry

 

            Several years ago while reading a book about my family’s genealogy, I found that one of my distant ancestors fired the first shot at Fort Sumter, South Carolina, which many historians consider to be the inaugural action that started the War Between the States.

             The man’s name was Edmund Ruffin, and as the oldest member of the South Carolina Palmetto Guards, he was given the “honor” of firing the first shot in April 1861 from a 64-pounder cannon. This, along with my love of American and Arkansas history, sparked my interest in the Civil War.

             I began to take a closer look at Civil War battles fought in the Natural State and took many road trips searching for battlefields, cemeteries and historical markers. One of those trips took me to the site of one of the bloodiest battles of the war in Arkansas: Jenkins’ Ferry Battlefield State Park. The battle of Jenkins’ Ferry started on the morning of April 29, 1864, about 9 miles east of Leola (Grant County).

             The land where the battle was fought was first settled by Thomas Jenkins, who started a ferry across the Saline River in 1815. Jenkins paid the Saline County Clerk just $1 to operate the ferry and charge travelers to cross the river. The ferry was operated by his sons, William and John, until the Civil War began in 1861.

            In March 1864, Union Gen. Frederick Steele led 14,000 troops out of Arkansas’ capital city of Little Rock to join the Union army’s Red River Campaign (sometimes referred to as the Camden Expedition). The goal of the campaign was to unite with Union Gen. Nathaniel Banks’ troops in north Louisiana to invade the state of Texas.

            Steele and his troops successfully seized Camden on April 15, but they didn’t proceed to Louisiana or Texas. Instead, threatened by Confederate soldiers and running low on supplies, Steele chose to return to Little Rock. On the morning of April 29, dealing with the flooded Saline River and aware of the approaching rebel troops, Steele ordered his engineers to create a pontoon bridge at the site of the old Jenkins’ Family Ferry crossing.

             Throughout the night and the next day, the Confederate troops brutally attacked Union forces, resulting in 521 Union casualties and 443 Confederate casualties. Because the Union army succeeded in crossing the river and subsequently destroying the pontoon bridge behind them, the battle went down in the history books as a Union victory. Steele’s troops returned to Little Rock on May 3. Historians estimate more than 2,000 soldiers died in the battle of Jenkins’ Ferry.

             Jenkins’ Ferry Battlefield State Park was created in 1961 by Act 10 of the Arkansas General Assembly and is now is maintained by the state’s Department of Parks, Heritage & Tourism. The 40-acre park consists of several interpretive markers and historic monuments, a section of the original military road, picnic tables, boat ramp and recreational opportunities along the Saline River such as boating and swimming.

            One bit of trivia: The battle is briefly depicted and mentioned by fictional soldiers Pvt. Harold Green of the 116th United States Colored Infantry Regiment and Cpl. Ira Clark of the 5th Massachusetts Colored Cavalry Regiment, who speak with President Abraham Lincoln (played by Daniel Day-Lewis) in the opening scene of the 2012 movie, “Lincoln,” directed by Steven Spielberg.

        While it’s not as famous as Gettysburg or even Pea Ridge, the battle of Jenkins’ Ferry is significant in its own right, as it led to one of the few overall rebel victories (the Red River Campaign) in Arkansas. And as far as my distant ancestor who fired the war's first shot, I’ll leave it to you to find out (in the words of the late radio legend Paul Harvey), the rest of the story.

        A proud sixth-generation Arkansan, Darrell W. Brown is a lover of all things Arkansas. He lives on beautiful Lake Norrell in Saline County with his wife, Amy, and two beloved Boston Terriers. You can find him on Facebook and Instagram at AllAroundArkansas.

All Around Arkansas: Three Sisters' Springs

         

        As I write this, Memorial Day weekend is just a few days away. 

        And as the unofficial start to summer, thousands of Arkansans will flock to our state parks — especially the ones located on lakes — to camp, boat, fish, swim and ski. There's one state park in particular that’s very popular: Lake Ouachita State Park, on the beautiful crystal-clear waters of its namesake outside Mountain Pine. One attraction at the park that often gets overlooked is definitely worth checking out, and that’s the Three Sisters’ Springs.

        The story of Three Sisters’ Springs begins in 1875 when John McFadden set up a homestead on several acres about 12 miles northwest of Hot Springs, a place nationally known for its “healing” and “curative” waters. Located on McFadden’s property were three naturally flowing springs he named the Three Sisters after his three daughters. 

        But in 1883, McFadden, having failed to meet the requirements of federal homesteading laws, lost the land. By the early 1900s, a cunning entrepreneur named W.M. Cecil had taken control of the property, and that's when things began to take off for the three springs and the surrounding acreage.

        Cecil began building a resort he called McFadden’s in honor of the original owner. The resort consisted of several cottages on the hillside, and people would come and relax in the spring waters, hike, swim and fish in numerous nearby streams. (Today, park staff use some remaining McFadden’s cottages as housing.)

        But Cecil didn’t stop there. 

        He decided to build a springhouse over the Three Sisters’ Springs and began bottling the waters he claimed had healing powers. Cecil sold the water, called “McFadden’s World Wonder Waters,” not just at the resort but across the country. 

        According to Cecil, water from spring No. 1 could help cure diabetes, enlarged prostates, insomnia, gout, high blood pressure and arthritis. Water from spring No. 2 was helpful in eradicating chronic constipation and indigestion, low blood pressure, excessive acid and gallstones. And finally, water from spring No. 3 could assist those suffering from chronic diarrhea, eczema, sinus pain and something called catarrh of the head. According to a sign at the springhouse, the cost of water in 1927 was 10 cents per bottle.

        In 1939, the resort and springs were sold to Roy and Ruth Whipple, who would be the property's final private owners. The couple sold the property to the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers' Vicksburg District when Lake Ouachita was completed in 1951. 

        The lake wasn't officially dedicated until 1955 when the hydroelectric plant at Blakely Mountain Dam was finally completed. Shortly after the creation of Lake Ouachita, the Corps of Engineers approached the Arkansas Department of Parks & Tourism about establishing a state park on the shores of the lake not only to provide recreational opportunities to Arkansans but to preserve the Three Sisters’ Springs. The state agreed, and the Corps leased the parks department 360 acres, including the springs for park development.

        Today the Three Sisters’ Springs are free flowing through an area of natural stone over a reconstructed springhouse. The springs are now redirected to flow into one stream that empties into the waters of Lake Ouachita. A sign at the springhouse warns visitors not to partake of the spring waters, as they have not been tested as safe to drink.

        If you go to Lake Ouachita State Park this summer, take your swimsuit, boat, jet ski, fishing pole and bait, but don’t take gallon jugs to fill with water from the Three Sisters’ Springs. We don’t really know what’s in McFadden’s magic water, and it’s best not to take your chances.

A proud sixth-generation Arkansan, Darrell W. Brown is a lover of all things Arkansas. He lives on beautiful Lake Norrell in Saline County with his wife, Amy, and two beloved Boston Terriers. You can find him on Facebook and Instagram at AllAroundArkansas.