From the mid-1920s to the late 1960s, Hot Springs was considered to be the "Las Vegas of the South." Gangsters and tourists, freshly bathed in hot mineral water, roamed the streets to frequent local casinos, bars, restaurants and places of ill-repute (Maxine’s was a favorite). They even bowled together in harmony at an underground bowling alley beneath Central Avenue. (I’ve personally seen it and yes, it’s very cool!)
Notorious gangsters like Al Capone, Lucky Luciano and Owney Madden (owner of the Cotton Club in New York City and also co-owner of The Vapors Club in Hot Springs) could be seen at the Southern Club (now a wax museum), the Ohio Club (Arkansas’ oldest bar and home to an amazing burger), The Vapors Club (which became a church and now operates as an entertainment venue) and other clubs on Central and Park Avenues. Capone had his own personal suite directly across from the Southern Club in the Arlington Hotel (Room 443), which was also a favorite choice of lodging of many of the gangsters, as was the nearby Majestic Hotel.
While gambling was illegal in Arkansas, government and law enforcement officials looked the other way. Many of them made money on the side and also realized that gambling was good for city tourism. While there were attempts by religious leaders and some politicians to end gambling in the city, their efforts were futile.
By the early 1960s, the Spa City ranked third in the nation for visitors, including many who came during horse racing season and for the illegal but in-your-face gambling opportunities. At one time, Hot Springs had more than 70 establishments offering some form of gambling.
But the sounds of slot machines and excited shouting at the tables came to an abrupt end in 1967 when Gov. Winthrop Rockefeller stopped illegal gambling in Hot Springs, ordering Arkansas State Troopers to confiscate the machines and tables and burn them publicly. While the bathhouses and race track were still popular, the end of gambling almost destroyed the town financially, and many say it never recovered from the glory days.
With the exception of the Ohio, the old clubs are now gift shops or vacant. The Majestic Hotel burned to the ground in February 2014.
But the Arlington Resort Hotel & Spa, purchased by new owners in 2017, remains open for guests and is undergoing a $50 million renovation. Oaklawn Racing Casino Resort is more popular than ever now that legal gambling has come to Arkansas; it unveiled a $100 million expansion in 2021 that includes a full casino and resort-style hotel.
And Hot Springs is still home to many great restaurants, such as The Porterhouse, The Pancake Shop, and my all-time favorite, McClards’ BBQ. While the clandestine casinos and clubs are long gone, there's still much to see and do in the "Valley of the Vapors."
If you want to experience the history of Hot Springs gambling, visit the History of Hot Springs Gambling Museum at 3339 Central Avenue, Suite C. The museum was started six years ago by three gambling memorabilia collectors: Lanny Beavers, Chris Hendrix and Tony Frazier, who decided to combine their collections of slot machines, tables, chips and more to create the museum. Inside, you'll also find a collection of vintage Hot Springs memorabilia from clubs like the Southern Club and The Vapors and legendary restaurants like Coy’s Steak House and the Belvedere. Admission is free, but the museum is only open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.
The museum's owners are hospitable and love to share their knowledge of Hot Springs’ past. Every machine is free to play, but unfortunately, you don’t get to keep any winnings. That stays with the house. Doesn’t it always?
A sixth-generation Arkansan, Darrell W. Brown is a lover of all things Arkansas. He lives on Lake Norrell in Saline County with his wife, Amy, and two beloved Boston Terriers. You can find him on Facebook and Instagram at AllAroundArkansas.
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