When you’re born into a family of fishermen who love to have a good ol' fashioned fish fry as often as the weather changes in Arkansas, you can’t help but get hooked on fried catfish at an early age.
My dad, an avid fisherman, loves to catch and fry catfish, even for Christmas dinner. Yes, we Browns — even on Christmas — have fried catfish for our holiday dinner.
Arkansas is one of several southern states known for catfish, which are present in almost all our rivers, lakes, reservoirs and streams. About 18% of sport fishing in Arkansas involves catfish.
As such, Arkansas has many great restaurants that specialize in catfish, and I’d like to share some of my favorites:
The Hook in Jacksonville: Located in my hometown, The Hook was known as The Crooked Hoot in the '80s and most people still refer to it as that. The Hook has been serving its signature offering — crispy, consistent fried catfish — for over 30 years. The seafood and chicken are also amazing. “Crooked” or not, The Hook will always be one of my favorites.
Lassis Inn in Little Rock: Famous not only for catfish but also buffalo ribs, the Lassis Inn was founded by Joe and Molassis Watson in 1905 as a sandwich shop. Sitting in the same spot since the beginning, Lassis Inn became a meeting place for local civil rights leaders during the '50s and '60s.
Throughout most of its history, Lassis has had the same basic menu: fried catfish fillets, catfish steaks, seasoned hushpuppies and its famous buffalo fish ribs. Having barely changed its décor, a visit here is like stepping back in time. In 2020, the Lassis Inn received the James Beard American Classics award — one of only two Arkansas restaurants to earn the distinction (Jones Bar-B-Q Diner in Marianna is the other).
Dondie’s White River Princess in Des Arc: Founded in the late 1980s by Dondie Guess, this restaurant is located in a faux riverboat on the White River. Known for its endless catfish buffet, the restaurant has expanded its menu to include steaks, other seafood items and even pasta. But the catfish buffet remains its heart and soul. The place is packed every Thursday, Friday and Saturday night, so arrive early to avoid a long wait.
I could also go on and on about other great catfish restaurants in Arkansas such as Pig-n-Chik in Sherwood; The Whippet in Prattsville; Huckleberrys’ in Searcy; Burger Shack, Eat My Catfish and Riverside Grocery in Benton; and Jo-Jo’s in Mountain View.
And there's another that's no longer in Arkansas — Cock of the Walk in Maumelle. Back in the '80s, it was the place to go for catfish. Located on a small pond, the restaurant was famed for its tin plates and cups and waiters who would flip cornbread in small iron skillets. Today, it's the home to the Cypress Social restaurant.
While all the above-mentioned restaurants serve great incarnations of my favorite food, none of them can beat Floyd Brown’s catfish. You’re welcome, dad. When’s the next family fish fry?
A proud sixth-generation Arkansan, Darrell W. Brown is a lover of all things Arkansas. He lives on beautiful Lake Norrell in Saline County with his wife, Amy, and their two beloved Boston Terriers. You can find him on Instagram and Facebook at AllAroundArkansas.
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