Greetings from Mountain Home

            The town of Mountain Home (Baxter County) located in the north-central part of Arkansas has a rich history influenced by its geography, natural resources, and its role in regional development. 

            Before European settlers arrived, the area now known as Mountain Home was inhabited by Native American tribes, primarily the Osage, who lived in the Ozarks and along the White River. They relied on the river for transportation, fishing, and trade. As settlers moved westward in the early 1800s, the Osage and other tribes were gradually pushed out of the region, a part of the broader trend of native American displacement across the United States.

            European-American settlement in the area began in the early 19th century, particularly after the Louisiana Purchase in 1803. The town of Mountain Home itself was established in the 1830s, though it wasn’t officially incorporated until April 16, 1888. The name "Mountain Home" is believed to have been chosen because of the town's location at the foot of the Ozark Mountains and its reputation as a peaceful and scenic place to live.

            The town initially developed as a small farming and trade community, benefiting from its proximity to the White River and its tributaries. The river provided a means of transportation for goods, and the fertile soil in the area allowed settlers to grow crops like corn, tobacco, and cotton.

            The arrival of the railroad in the late 19th century played a significant role in Mountain Home's development. In 1894, the St. Louis, Iron Mountain, & Southern Railway established a station in Mountain Home, making it a key transportation hub in the region. This helped stimulate the local economy by connecting the town to other markets and bringing in more settlers and businesses.

            Mountain Home continued to grow throughout the early 20th century, with agriculture as the main economic driver. The area became known for its production of poultry, dairy products, and other farm goods. The construction of the Norfork and Bull Shoals dams by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers in the 1940s and 1950s also had a major impact, as these reservoirs made the area a popular destination for boating, fishing, and tourism.

            With the creation of Bull Shoals Lake and Norfork Lake, Mountain Home became a hotbed for outdoor recreation. The natural beauty of the Ozarks, along with its lakes and rivers, attracted more tourists and retirees to the area. Mountain Home, along with nearby towns, developed a reputation as a popular retirement destination, particularly for those seeking a quiet, scenic, and affordable place to live.

            In the latter half of the 20th century and into the 21st century, Mountain Home has continued to grow, though its economy has diversified beyond agriculture and tourism. Today, it has a small but vibrant local economy, with manufacturing, health care, and retail sectors contributing to the town's development. The town also serves as a regional center for medical services, including the Baxter Regional Medical Center, which is one of the largest employers in the area.

            The town is known for its picturesque setting and its strong community spirit. It is also home to several cultural and historical sites, such as the Mountain Home History Museum, which preserves the town's past and showcases artifacts and exhibits related to local history.

            Mountain Home’s history is deeply tied to the broader history of the Ozark region, with its mix of Native American heritage, early European settlement, agricultural roots, and later shift toward tourism and recreation. The town retains a small-town charm, with many residents taking pride in the area's natural beauty and its laid-back lifestyle.

            Overall, Mountain Home has evolved from a frontier settlement to an extremely popular recreational and retirement hub, with a rich local history that reflects the cultural and economic changes of the American heartland. The town is a must-visit destination for those seeking a glimpse of what gives Arkansas the nickname of “The Natural State.”

The Town of Flippin

            

            Nestled in the Ozark Mountains of northern Arkansas, the town of Flippin (Marion County) boasts a rich history shaped by its natural resources, the resilience of its people, and the evolution of the region itself. While Flippin may not be as widely known as some of its more prominent neighboring communities, it has a unique story rooted in the development of the American frontier and the economic transformations of the 19th and 20th centuries.

            Flippin was founded in the 1870s. While the exact origins of the town's name remain somewhat unclear, several theories exist. Some believe it was named after the Flippin family, early settlers in the region, while others suggest the name may have been derived from a term in the local dialect or a nickname. Despite the mystery surrounding the name, the settlement began to take shape during this time, primarily as a small farming community.

            The true growth of Flippin began with the arrival of the railroad in the late 19th century. The railroad not only connected Flippin to other major cities in Arkansas and beyond but also opened up new opportunities for trade and commerce. This was a pivotal moment for the town, as it allowed local farmers and entrepreneurs to access broader markets for their goods.

            Flippin’s growth also coincided with the expansion of the timber and mining industries in the region. The Ozarks were rich in timber, and the demand for wood products, particularly during the industrialization of the United States, spurred the development of sawmills and logging operations around Flippin. The town became an important hub for these industries, providing jobs and boosting the local economy.

            Like many small towns across the United States, Flippin was not immune to the effects of the Great Depression. The collapse of the economy in the 1930s led to widespread job losses and hardships for many residents. The timber and furniture industries were especially hard hit, with demand for wooden products and timber sharply declining. During this time, the federal government initiated several relief programs, including the Works Progress Administration (WPA), which helped provide some economic stability through public works projects.

            World War II brought some relief to Flippin’s economy, as demand for materials and goods surged. The war effort stimulated the local economy, with many industries temporarily shifting to support the military, from manufacturing supplies to providing raw materials. The population of Flippin grew during this time, as men enlisted in the military and women entered the workforce.

            After the war, Flippin faced a period of transformation. The timber industry remained important, but many other industries began to emerge, including tourism and recreation. As the Ozarks became a popular destination for outdoor enthusiasts, Flippin’s location along the White River and its proximity to lakes and national forests made it an appealing stop for visitors.

            By the late 20th century, Flippin's economy had diversified, with a focus on retail, service industries, and light manufacturing. The development of Bull Shoals Dam, completed in 1951, created Bull Shoals Lake, which drew tourists from across the country for fishing, boating, and outdoor recreation. This influx of tourism provided a boost to Flippin’s economy, as small businesses catering to visitors began to flourish.

            In 1968, Forrest Wood established Ranger Boats in Flippin. Today, the company stands as the largest manufacturer of bass boats in the United States. The Woods were pivotal in shaping the world of professional bass fishing, and Forrest Wood is widely regarded as the pioneer of the modern bass boat. With a global reach, Ranger Boats have earned a reputation for being among the finest in their category.

            In the 21st century, Flippin’s economy is still tied to tourism, especially with the growth of nearby Bull Shoals Lake and the Ozark National Forest, which offer ample opportunities for fishing, hiking, boating, and camping. The town’s rich history is reflected in its community spirit, its historical buildings, and its continued pride in the natural beauty that surrounds it.

The Home of the Boll Weevils

            

                Nestled in the heart of southeast Arkansas, Monticello (Drew County) stands as the region's largest town, boasting a rich history marked by continuous growth and prosperity. Strategically positioned at the crossroads of two major highways and bolstered by early railroad access, it quickly emerged as a dynamic commercial hub. Its diverse economy—which includes commerce, agriculture, and timber—has laid a robust foundation that has propelled the town's development over the years.

             The town's origins trace back to nearby Rough and Ready Hill, where the first business and county court were established by 1836. Following the creation of Drew County in 1846, local leaders determined it was time to construct a new town to serve as the county seat. In an act of generosity, early settlers Fountain and Polly Austin donated eighty-three acres of land for the new town site in 1849. Legend has it that the name "Monticello" was inspired by President Thomas Jefferson’s estate in Virginia.

             By 1851, Monticello had erected its first courthouse at the center of town, a structure that would be replaced by a larger building in 1857. The early 1850s also saw residents allocate land for various Christian churches. Furthermore, lots were reserved for a male academy, a female academy, and a cemetery.

             The town's commercial momentum faced challenges during the Civil War, as Monticello became a site of conflict. In both 1864 and 1865, the area was the scene of multiple minor skirmishes, largely driven by Union forces seeking supplies. Rodger’s Female Academy, founded in 1857, served a dual purpose as a Confederate hospital, while Phi Kappa Sigma Male College was repurposed as a supply storehouse. Interestingly, Monticello's last skirmish occurred despite the formal surrender of the Confederacy, as word of the war's end had not yet reached the area.

             During Reconstruction, the rise of the Ku Klux Klan marked a tumultuous chapter in local history, largely as a reaction to the influence of “carpetbagger” governance.

 From 1874 to 1896, Monticello became a hub of activity with the Southeast Arkansas Fair, attracting visitors from across southeast Arkansas and northeast Louisiana. This vibrant period also saw the establishment of the McCloy & Trotter Mercantile and Grocery in 1881, a staple in the town’s economic landscape, founded by John J. McCloy and Virgil J. Trotter Sr. The community welcomed its first bank, the Monticello Bank, in April 1887, which would later become Union Bank & Trust Company.

 As the twentieth century dawned, Monticello experienced a significant surge in growth. The Monticello Cotton Mill, initiated by Warren Anderson in 1900, served as a cornerstone for industrial development, giving rise to two cotton gins, a fertilizer plant, an ice plant, and a canning factory. The financial sector also expanded, with the formation of multiple new banks to support the thriving community.

 The journey of education in Monticello began back in 1910 when the Fourth District State Agricultural School opened its doors for the first time. A name change in 1925 marked the institution's evolution into Arkansas Agricultural and Mechanical College, affectionately known as Arkansas A&M. The college attained junior college certification in 1928, and climbed to senior college status by 1939, earning accreditation the following year. Fast forward to 1971, when it became part of the University of Arkansas system, taking on the name we recognize today: the University of Arkansas at Monticello (UAM). Of note, the university proudly claims the boll weevil as its mascot.

 In the early 20th century, Monticello blossomed into a thriving community. The construction of a new courthouse in 1932 marked the beginning of significant developments, followed closely by a municipal building in 1934. A Coca-Cola bottling plant opened its doors in 1935, and the city celebrated the arrival of a municipal swimming pool in 1936. These structures have now found their place within the cherished Monticello Commercial Historic District, a proud reminder of a dynamic era in the town's history.

 As World War II approached, the lingering shadows of the Great Depression began to dissolve. The Monticello Cotton Mill emerged as a key player in this economic revival, producing a coarse cotton material critical for military supplies, including tents, cots, and awnings. The mill ran at full throttle during the war, drawing many families from surrounding rural areas seeking job opportunities in Monticello.

 Today, the Drew County Historical Museum stands as a proud guardian of the region's history, showcasing a plethora of artifacts and a comprehensive archive dedicated to southeast Arkansas. Alongside it, stately homes lining North and South Main streets proudly hold positions on the National Register of Historic Places. For relaxation, Lake Monticello offers a scenic oasis for recreation enthusiasts. Additionally, the historic Monticello Post Office remains a cherished local landmark. Now serving as the Economic Development Commission's headquarters, it's one of nineteen sites across Arkansas where visitors can admire fascinating Depression-era postal art.

 Monticello’s historical narrative continues to captivate and draw interest, showcasing a community that honors its past while keeping an eye on future possibilities.

Hawksbill Crag

                Every autumn, the mountains and valleys of Arkansas come alive with vibrant hues of gold, red, and orange, transforming the Natural State into a stunning panorama. Each year, countless visitors flock to our state for special fall getaways, eager to capture the season's beauty through their camera lenses. Scenic drives weave through the picturesque landscape, offering the perfect backdrop for an adventure-filled road trip that showcases the diverse topography and natural wonders of Arkansas.

                Among these natural wonders is the very popular, Hawksbill Crag, renowned as the most photographed bluff in Arkansas, and indeed, one of the most in the nation. This remarkable rock formation arguably holds the title of both the most beautiful and the most romantic spot in Arkansas. Nestled within the Ozark National Forest near Kingston (Madison County), this breathtaking locale is an absolute must-see. 

                Hawksbill Crag, sometimes referred to as Whitaker Point due to its proximity to Whitaker Creek, is a destination that consistently captivates photographers and nature lovers alike. Each year, thousands flock to this stunning spot in the Ozarks, lured by its breathtaking vistas and the unparalleled beauty of the surrounding landscape. It’s no wonder this location has become a favorite among outdoor enthusiasts seeking a glimpse of nature's splendor.

                The unique rock formation has long been the star of numerous advertising campaigns promoting the Natural State, capturing the attention of visitors from across the nation. Nestled majestically on a bluff, it offers breathtaking views of the sweeping hills and valleys below, extending as far as the eye can see.

                For outdoor enthusiasts seeking to explore a breathtaking natural wonder, the 3-mile out-and-back trail to Hawksbill Crag offers a moderately challenging hike with an elevation gain of 400 feet. While it requires a fair amount of effort, the stunning views at the summit truly reward the hard work put in along the way. Hikers are encouraged to remain vigilant and cautious, as the terrain can present challenges. 

            To reach the Hawksbill Crag trailhead from Ponca (Newton County), start by heading south on Highway 43 towards Boxley (Newton County). Once you reach the junction with Highway 21, take the southern route and continue towards Boxley. Just before spanning the Buffalo River, you'll spot Cave Mountain Road on your right—this gravel road marks the beginning of your adventure.

            Make a right onto Cave Mountain Road, which will steeply ascend before you. Continue for approximately 6 miles; the rugged terrain may feel much longer. As you pass by the Cave Mountain Church and cemetery, you’ll know you’re almost there.

            After the 6-mile trek, look for a small parking area labeled ‘Wilderness Access.' If the lot happens to be full, feel free to park along the roadside. The trailhead is located directly across the road from the parking lot. Prepare yourself for an unforgettable experience!

            As you navigate the trail, take the time to appreciate the region's stunning scenery. Don’t forget your camera—picturesque moments are waiting around every bend, from flowing creeks and elegant waterfalls to striking rock formations. Each step along the path promises a rewarding experience.

            Visitors should anticipate sharing the trail with fellow hikers, as thousands flock to witness the beauty of Hawksbill Crag. For a quieter experience, consider hiking during early mornings or weekdays, when foot traffic is lighter. Arriving at dawn allows for a magical encounter with the morning fog that gracefully drapes the landscape, offering a unique perspective on the awe-inspiring views.

            It’s fair to say that Hawksbill Crag stands as the most natural wonder in the Natural State, earning acclaim as Arkansas’ most photographed bluff. This stunning gem continues to draw admiration from all corners of the country, solidifying its status as a must-see destination for adventurers and nature lovers alike.

The Brick Capital of the World

                Established in 1870, Malvern's journey began as a humble railway station, but the town quickly transformed into a key player when it became the seat of Hot Spring County shortly after its incorporation. The region's rich agricultural and mineral assets laid a robust foundation for Malvern’s sustained economic growth, with brick production emerging as a pivotal industry.

                The Cairo & Fulton Railroad put Malvern on the map in 1873. Legend has it that a rail official, finding the hilly landscape reminiscent of his Virginia roots near Malvern Hill, convinced the company to adopt the name. Residents were eager to incorporate, making attempts in January and October 1875 that ultimately fell short. However, persistence paid off, and on July 22, 1876, the county court officially decreed the formation of Malvern, with Samuel Henry Emerson serving as the town’s first mayor.

                At the time, Rockport had long been the economic hub of the region, sitting at the head of navigation for the Ouachita River and serving as the county seat of Hot Spring County. But the advent of the railroad ushered in a period of rapid development for Malvern, prompting its citizens to seek a shift in government power. The initial vote in February 1877 didn’t yield success, but by July 1878, 176 voters rallied for change. On October 15, County Judge William Morehead authorized the county seat's relocation from Rockport to Malvern, marking a significant milestone in the city’s history. 

                The construction of the first county courthouse in 1888 was just one step in solidifying Malvern’s political and financial stature, with a new courthouse built in 1936. Adding to the city’s financial landscape, the Bank of Malvern was chartered in 1889, further invigorating economic activity in Hot Spring County. 

                Malvern has cemented its reputation as a hub for brick production, thanks to its rich clay deposits, particularly in nearby Perla (Hot Spring County). One of the trailblazers of this thriving industry was the Atchison Brick Company, which opened in the early 1890s. The timing was fortuitous; after devastating fires ravaged downtown Malvern in 1896 and 1897, the city seized the chance to rebuild with durable all-brick structures.

                In 1907, Malvern’s economic landscape evolved as the Clem family opened Clem Bottling Works, which quenchingly produced soft drinks such as Clem’s Orange, R-Pep, and Pep-Up, until 1972. In 1916, the Malvern Daily Record newspaper began publication. A year later, Arkansas Brick and Tile Co. took over the Atchison facilities, signaling a consolidation in the industry. Meanwhile, C. A. Bryan and Son was another early player, but after a fire at their plant, they sold to Malvern Brick and Tile Co. in 1924.

                The industry saw new developments in 1919, when Fort Worth-based Acme Brick Company acquired 120 acres in Perla. They began shipping products from their Perla Plant Number 1 in 1921, and just five years later, Acme took over Arkansas Brick and Tile’s operations, expanding their production footprint even more. While growth was somewhat stagnant during the 1930s and 1940s, the post-war years ushered in a period of strong expansion for Acme.

                Today, Acme Brick remains a cornerstone of both Malvern and Perla, reflecting the area’s continued commitment to brick production. A landmark development came in 1967, with the construction of a fully automated plant in Perla. The original Malvern plant was closed in 1980, replaced by a new operation named the Ouachita Plant. That same year, the city boldly proclaimed itself the “Brick Capital of the World.”

                Malvern is also the home of Grapette International, which manufactures Grapette soda and other soft drinks and beverage syrups sold throughout the world. Invented in 1939 by Benjamin T. Fooks, Grapette was originally based in nearby Camden (Ouachita County).

                Malvern is not just bricks and mortar; it is also home to a wealth of historic sites. The Alderson-Coston House, Clark House, Gatewood House, Strauss House, the Pine Bluff Street Historic District, and many more are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The Hot Spring County Museum adds to the rich tapestry of this vibrant community, preserving the legacy of a city built on brick, ambition, and history.

Arkansas' Only Ice Cream Company

             Based in Searcy (White County), Yarnell’s Ice Cream Company operated for four generations under the Yarnell family from 1932 to 2011, serving as Arkansas's sole ice cream-producing company. Following its closure due to bankruptcy in 2011, the company was acquired by Schulze and Burch Biscuit Co. and reintroduced in April 2012.

            Before Yarnell’s, the Grisham Ice Cream Company, known for producing Grisham’s Angel Food Ice Cream, was headquartered in Searcy in 1923, and later merged with the Terry Dairy Company in 1927.

            During the 1920s, Grisham and several other community ice cream companies in Arkansas were essential in rural areas with limited electricity. It wasn't until 1929 that Grisham acquired a refrigerated truck, enabling the company to extend its reach through its first truck route, using salt and ice to keep the ice cream cold. The truck ran between Searcy and Cabot (Lonoke County) in the south and to Tuckerman (Jackson County) in the north.

            In 1929, facing financial difficulties, Grisham was sold to Southwest Dairy Products, known for its Dairyland brand. Subsequently, Southwest Dairy Products went bankrupt, leading Ray Yarnell purchasing the plant in 1932. Yarnell had to pool all available cash and borrow against his life insurance policy to make the purchase, facing further financial challenges when the federal government declared a “bank holiday” in March 1933, freezing his funds. Yarnell went without a salary for a year and had to borrow additional funds to sustain the business.

            Throughout the 1930s and 1940s, the company steadily processed and sold ice cream products locally. Ray Yarnell's wife, Hallie, played a pivotal role as the bookkeeper, while their son Albert expanded the company's reach by delivering ice cream on his bicycle. The purchase of their first electrically refrigerated truck marked a significant milestone by the end of the 1930s.

            Following his return from serving in the Signal Corps during World War II, Albert Yarnell assumed the role of vice president and sales manager in 1948. His leadership was instrumental in guiding the company through its first major plant expansion in 1951, which significantly increased the company's production capacity. This expansion led to an expanded sales territory covering central and south Arkansas. Albert Yarnell's dedication was further recognized when he was named general manager in 1960, and subsequently became president following his father's passing in 1974.

            In 1970, the company achieved a significant milestone, reaching $1 million in sales. Five years later, Albert's son, Rogers Yarnell, joined the company. Notably, Yarnell's introduced the nation's first all-natural ice milk for the health-conscious market in 1978. By 1984, the company's reach extended throughout the region, earning acclaim for its "Down Home Goodness." In 1991, Yarnell's continued to innovate, introducing “Guilt Free,” touted as America's first fat-free, no-sugar-added line of ice cream.

            Until its 2011 closure, Albert Yarnell served as the company’s chairman, Rogers Yarnell as president/chief executive officer, and fourth-generation Christina Yarnell, who joined the business in 2001, serving as custom brand manager. The company was known for its consistent introduction of new products alongside its traditional favorites and ice cream novelties. Yarnell’s had a strong presence in Arkansas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Missouri, Oklahoma, and Tennessee, and at the time of its closure, it was the only remaining ice cream company in Arkansas. Unfortunately, on June 30, 2011, the company ceased operations abruptly, attributing it to a struggling economy, difficulties in obtaining financing, and the inability to find a buyer.

            In November 2011, the Schulze and Burch Biscuit Company of Chicago, Illinois, acquired the Yarnell’s plant and most of the recipes at auction for a reported sum of $1.3 million. Subsequently, the company relaunched the Yarnell’s brand in April 2012. The ceremonial scoop was made by Gov. Mike Beebe at a press conference at the state capitol on April 19, 2012. Fast forward to June 2020, the production facility in Searcy was sold by Schulze and Burch to Turkey Hill Dairy of Pennsylvania, with the company retaining ownership of the Yarnell’s brand.

The Arkansas Museum of Natural Resources

            

            The Arkansas Museum of Natural Resources near Smackover (Union County) showcases the compelling story of oil and bromine production in southern Arkansas, focusing on the historic oil boom of the 1920s. The museum not only delves into the history of these resources from their ancient origins to modern times but also highlights the impact of this significant period in Arkansas history.

            During the 1920s, national attention was drawn to this region, as the Smackover Oil Field rose to prominence, ranking first among the nation’s oil fields with an impressive yearly production of sixty-nine million barrels in 1925. This area experienced one of the most rapid mineral booms in North America, with a staggering success rate of ninety-two percent in drilling 1,000 wells within the first six months, leading to the exponential growth of Smackover.

            However, the lack of conservation laws resulted in the escape of natural gas and the pollution of the landscape by saltwater, leading to the decline of the oil boom by the early 1930s. Despite this, south Arkansas oil fields continue to produce petroleum, albeit at a slower rate.

            The Arkansas Museum of Natural Resources’ origins can be traced back to 1975, when a group of visionaries envisioned a place to preserve and interpret Arkansas’s oil history. Subsequently, in 1977, the Arkansas General Assembly passed Act 310, which imposed a tax on the state’s oil production to fund the museum’s construction and operation. Additionally, in 1979, the legislature imposed a tax on brine, a saltwater often found alongside oil deposits and a source of bromine extraction. Notably, bromine, a vital chemical used in various industries, is derived from this brine.

            In 1980, Jack Turner donated nineteen acres in Smackover as a site for the Arkansas Oil and Brine Museum. Initially known by this name, the museum was later renamed the Arkansas Museum of Natural Resources in 1997 and is operated by the Arkansas Department of Parks, Heritage, and Tourism.

            The museum’s exhibition center spans 25,000 square feet and houses an array of captivating displays. Visitors can explore vintage photographs, an auditorium showcasing two videos, a unique exhibit called “Center of the Earth,” a geologic time scale and fossil exhibit, and life-size representations of roughnecks working an oil derrick. Additionally, there are exhibits on family life in the oil fields, vintage gas pumps, and petroleum company signs.

            One of the museum’s highlights is a high-tech elevator that takes visitors on a journey through time, from a Jurassic period sea floor to the Industrial Revolution. An adjoining exhibit focuses on the evolution of oil consumption from 1922 to modern times, offering a fascinating perspective. Moreover, visitors can peer from a replica of the Rogerson Hotel’s second-floor veranda overlooking a re-created, boom-era street scene in Smackover, complete with numerous storefronts, a jail, a newspaper office, mannequins in period dress, and vintage automobiles.

            Outside, the center’s Oilfield Park features operating examples of oil-producing technology from the 1920s to the present day, including a 112-foot wooden derrick similar to the one at the original Busey No. 1 Well in El Dorado. For those interested in seeing an active oil field, the museum’s staff has prepared maps for either six- or fifteen-mile driving tours of the Smackover field, revealing remnants of early production such as salt flats. The field is conveniently located just north of the museum.

For further details regarding the Arkansas Museum of Natural Resources, contact the museum’s office at 870-725-2877 or visit its website at www.amnr.org.

The Precious Town of Jasper

             

   

                Nestled in Newton County, the charming town of Jasper is truly a sight to behold. Surrounded by the natural wonders where the Buffalo River, the nation's first national river, begins its graceful journey, Jasper exudes a quaint and picturesque allure. With over one-third of the county under government ownership, the town is a haven for those seeking solace in nature's embrace.

                Jasper's roots trace back to 1840, when it was established as a village along the Little Buffalo River. Early settlers, drawn to the area as early as 1825, left their mark on the village, as evidenced by census records from 1850. The town's evolution took a significant turn in 1843, when the first postmaster, John Ross, relocated his family to Jasper, establishing a trading post and leaving an indelible mark on the town's history.

                The town's significance was further solidified on Dec. 14, 1842, when Gov. Archibald Yell signed legislation creating Newton County from land in Carroll County, designating Jasper as the county seat in 1843. From 1843 to 1849, Ross played a pivotal role in various town offices, from postmaster to county judge, leaving an enduring legacy in Jasper's history.

                Amidst the turmoil of the Civil War, the community bore witness to the rise of two distinguished figures, each championing a different cause. James Vanderpool, a celebrated Union veteran, returned home in August 1865, while John Cecil, the former sheriff of Newton County, gained notoriety for displaying his twin pearl-handled pistols as a Confederate guerrilla leader. Although Newton County predominantly supported the Union, the year 1863 saw Union troops setting Jasper ablaze in their pursuit of Cecil, relocating sympathizers to Springfield, Missouri.

                In the aftermath of the Civil War, Jasper burgeoned into a bustling hub. Abundant timber, particularly oak for stave bolts and cedar for pencil mills, spurred local sawmills to employ hundreds of men. The town flourished to such an extent that it boasted five newspapers. Census records between 1880 and 1900 reveal that Newton County's population surged from 6,120 to 12,538. On Dec. 19, 1895, the inhabitants of Jasper petitioned the county court for incorporation as a town.

                The origins of the name Jasper are shrouded in legend, with at least three stories in circulation. According to one oft-repeated tale, Cherokee Indians bestowed the name upon the town in appreciation of the warm hospitality they received while traveling west along the Trail of Tears. Another version of this account involves a cherished ring, housing a jasper stone, presented to John Ross as a token of gratitude for his kindness towards the Cherokee travelers. Alternatively, it is said that Ross coined the name by likening the mellow hue of the local stone to jasper, one of the twelve precious stones mentioned in the New Testament book of Revelation.

                Situated in the center of the Ozark Mountains, Jasper and its surrounding area offer a large variety of outdoor activities, making it an ideal destination for adventure seekers. From hiking and canoeing to caving and rock climbing, there's truly something for everyone. The region is also renowned for its elk population, with approximately 450 elk making their home in the Buffalo River corridor and beyond, earning Newton County the title of Elk Capital of Arkansas.

                One of Jasper's most famous attractions is the Arkansas Grand Canyon, a stunning natural marvel that beautifully combines picturesque landscapes and native fauna.

                Recognized by American Cowboy magazine as one of the "Five Spots for Family Reunions" in Sept. 2012, Jasper boasts a charming downtown square adorned with a picturesque courthouse and inviting gazebos. Each year, the Buffalo River Elk Festival draws visitors to celebrate the successful reintroduction of elk to the area.

                For travelers embarking on Arkansas Scenic Byway 7, a feast for the eyes awaits as the route winds through the county from north to south. Jasper's proximity to Harrison, Russellville, and Branson makes it a convenient stop for those exploring northwest Arkansas. 

                If you are in the vicinity, don't miss the opportunity to uncover the hidden gem of Jasper, a true treasure in the Natural State.

Arkansas' Westminster Abbey

                

                Mount Holly Cemetery in Arkansas' capital city of Little Rock (Pulaski County) is known as the state’s Westminster Abbey. The nickname is well-deserved, considering the multitude of individuals of great significance in art, literature, politics, and religion who have found their final resting place there. The cemetery contains the gravesites of eleven Arkansas governors, thirteen Arkansas Supreme Court justices, four United States senators, four Confederate generals, and twenty-one former Little Rock mayors. 

                The cemetery's long and storied history dates back to February 1843, when the land was deeded by two prominent Little Rock citizens, attorneys Chester Ashley and Roswell Beebe, to the city of Little Rock. Situated on a four-square-block site between 11th and 13th streets and from Broadway to Gaines Street, the cemetery became the major burial ground after private family cemeteries and a public burial ground were utilized for interments before its establishment. Numerous grave markers with dates preceding the formation of Mount Holly reflect reinterments from a previous location.

                In 1877, feeling that the cemetery was not receiving the care it deserved, a group of businessmen in Little Rock established a cemetery commission. This commission administered the cemetery for almost forty years until a group of the town’s women took over the responsibility due to their dissatisfaction with its neglected appearance. The ladies formed the Mount Holly Cemetery Association, which was incorporated in 1915, and has continued to oversee the management of the cemetery.

                Records from 1940 indicated that Arkansas had fewer foreign-born residents than any other state in the union, a fact reinforced by the cemetery's burial index, indicating that the majority of early decedents were native-born. Over the years, specific sections of the cemetery were designated for Catholic and Jewish burials, reflecting the diverse history of the area. Notably, a portion of the cemetery was set aside for the internment of African Americans as early as 1843.

                Thus, Mount Holly Cemetery stands not only as a final resting place but also as a site rich with historical and cultural significance, telling the stories of the people who have shaped the state's past.

                The cemetery's serene atmosphere is accentuated by its assortment of old roses, mature trees, and intricately crafted signs that guide visitors through its narrow pathways. The elegant Victorian era is captured in the diverse architectural styles and grave markers adorned with intriguing motifs and epitaphs.

              

                Notable features within the cemetery include the rare white bronze markers, created only between 1875 and 1915, and the exquisite cemetery furniture, including aged cast iron pieces and ornate iron fencing enclosing select burial plots. Among the remarkable monuments, the Albert Pike family marker stands out as a work of art designed by the renowned Robert Eberhard Launitz, considered the pioneer of monumental art in America.

                A captivating nineteenth-century cast iron fountain, produced by the J. L. Mott Company of Bronx, New York, has adorned the cemetery since 2002, adding a touch of history and elegance. To accommodate the growing popularity of cremation, a columbarium was constructed in 2003 on the western side of the fountain.

                Since October 1995, student actors from Parkview High School’s speech and drama department in Little Rock have dressed up in period-correct costumes and performed short monologues and dialogues from the lives of those buried in Mount Holly Cemetery. The event, Tales from the Crypt, is held every second Sunday in October. This year, the event will be held on October 6 from 2-4 p.m., with the last tour starting at 4 p.m. The family-friendly event is free, but donations are accepted and appreciated.

                For more information about the Tales from the Crypt event and the cemetery, visit its website at www.MountHollyCemetery.org.

Lake Maumelle

                

                Last Saturday, my wife, mother-in-law, and I drove to Russellville (Pope County) to welcome the newest addition to the Brown family—an adorable three-month-old Boston Terrier named Tucker. Departing from our home on Lake Norrell, we opted for the scenic route along Highway 10 to reach our destination. Hailing from Texas and unfamiliar with this part of the Natural State, my mother-in-law was particularly astounded by the magnitude and splendor of the body of water we drove past on Highway 10—Lake Maumelle. 

                The origins of Lake Maumelle can be traced back to the post-World War I growth of Little Rock and its surrounding suburbs. At that time, it became evident that the drinking water supply from Lake Winona in northwestern Saline County was insufficient to meet the increasing demand. Consequently, construction of a dam on the Big Maumelle River commenced in 1956, and the lake was ultimately completed in March 1959, covering approximately 8,900 acres.

                The creation of Lake Maumelle necessitated the relocation of fifty families from the small community of Crossroads, which was home to several churches, schools, and stores. As part of the relocation process, graves in the local cemetery were transferred, and many families resettled in Roland and Natural Steps.

                Both the lake and the river that was impounded to create it were named after the original appellation of nearby Pinnacle Mountain, initially referred to as Mamelle by nineteenth-century French explorers due to its resemblance to a female breast. The Big Maumelle River runs to the north of Pinnacle Mountain, while the Little Maumelle River flows to the south of the mountain.

                Central Arkansas Water took on the responsibility of managing the upkeep of the lake and its surrounding watershed. Throughout the years, the organization has negotiated with property owners near the lake, resulting in several agreements. These agreements encompass a range of regulations, including the prohibition of tree clearance on the land, restrictions on the development of hotels, condominiums, or restaurants in the lake's proximity, and the requirement for property owners to obtain specific permission before commencing any construction. Moreover, the use of animal waste as fertilizer is expressly banned. Financial incentives are in place to encourage the replacement of septic tanks with sewer lines, diverting household waste away from the watershed area. 

               While fishing and certain types of boating are permitted on the lake, activities such as swimming, wading, and specific watercraft operations are prohibited.

                Over the years, Lake Maumelle has become a beloved spot for sail boating enthusiasts, and is renowned for its vibrant sailing regattas. The lake is home to Grande Maumelle Sailing Club, a nonprofit organization that boasts a clubhouse, pavilion, docks, keelboat slips, as well as amenities for trailered sailboats including a boat ramp and crane.

                Lake Maumelle and the Big and Little Maumelle Rivers are inhabited by a variety of fish species, such as bass, crappie, bream, catfish, mussels, and other aquatic life. The area is also home to many birds and other wildlife, particularly within the Ouachita National Forest. The U.S. Forest Service allocated $4 million in 2012 to safeguard four miles of forest along the river outside the national forest, enhancing environmental protection. Additionally, the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission established a wildlife management area and signed a ninety-nine-year lease with Central Arkansas Water in 2013 to preserve the river and lake.

                Nearby Pinnacle Mountain State Park offers eagle-watching cruises on Lake Maumelle during the fall months. The tours are open to all ages and cost between $10 and $15 per person. They typically last about an hour and a half. For further details about the cruises, contact the park’s visitor center at (501) 868-5806.

                If you happen to find yourself in central Arkansas and are looking to immerse yourself in our state's breathtaking natural scenery, I highly recommend taking the drive along Highway 10 to behold one of the most beautiful and pristine bodies of water in the Natural State—Lake Maumelle.

The Sultana Disaster

The worst maritime disaster in American history occurred on the Mississippi River near Helena (Phillips County) on April 27, 1865, when a commercial side-wheel steamboat named the Sultana exploded, claiming the lives of its 1,167 passengers.

The wooden vessel was built in 1863 by the John Litherbury Boatyard in Cincinnati, Ohio, and was officially launched into service on January 3 of that year. The boat was intended for the cotton trade on the lower Mississippi River. It weighed 1,719 tons and could carry a crew of 85, along with approximately 375 passengers.

For its first two years in operation, the Sultana ran a regular route on the Mississippi River between the two major port cities of St. Louis and New Orleans. It was also used to carry troops during the Civil War.

Even though the Sultana was designed with a capacity of only 375 passengers, it was carrying 2,128 when three of the boat's four boilers exploded and caused it to sink near Memphis. The tragedy was largely overshadowed in the newspapers of the day due to the events surrounding the end of the Civil War, as well as the murder of President Lincoln's assassin John Wilkes Booth, which took place the day before the Sultana disaster.

The Sultana explosion was officially attributed to boiler water level mismanagement, which was made worse by the ship's extreme overloading and top-heavy design. The steamer listed badly from side to side as it traveled north, following the river's many curves. The Sultana’s four boilers were positioned side by side and connected so that water would tend to drain out of the topmost boiler if the boat toppled sideways. Hot areas were generated by the fires still burning against the empty boiler. A quick increase in pressure would result from water pouring back into the empty boiler and hitting the hot areas, instantly flashing to steam when the boat tipped the other way. Maintaining high water levels in the boilers may have minimized this careening effect. The official inquiry found that the boilers exploded because of the combined impact of careening, low water levels, and the faulty repair made a few days earlier.

Through the years, several monuments and historical markers commemorating the Sultana disaster and its 1,167 victims have been placed in Memphis; Muncie, Indiana; Vicksburg, Mississippi; Cincinnati; Knoxville, Tennessee; and Marion (Crittenden County).

An archaeological expedition, led by Memphis lawyer Jerry Potter in 1982, uncovered what was believed to be the remains of the Sultana. Blackened wooden deck planks were found about 32 feet under a soybean field on the Arkansas side of the Mississippi River. The river has changed course many times since the Sultana disaster, leaving the wreckage under dry land and far from the river’s present course, as the Mississippi’s main channel now flows two miles east of its 1865 position.

In 2015, on the 150th anniversary of the disaster, an interim museum dedicated to the Sultana was opened in Marion. The museum was only meant to be temporary while funds were raised to build a permanent museum. Featured in the museum are artifacts from the Sultana, such as shaker plates from the boat's furnace, furnace bricks, and pieces of metal and wood from the ship. The museum also features a fourteen-foot model replica of the boat. One wall in the museum lists the names of every soldier, crewmember, and passenger who lost their lives in the disaster. The current museum is located at 104 Washington Street in Marion.

Recently, the non-profit Sultana Historic Preservation Society, Inc. acquired the 1939 Marion Public School auditorium and gymnasium for renovation as the future home of the permanent museum. A team of architects, exhibit designers, and planners is working on concepts for the 17,000-square-foot facility. With a more accessible location, the historic building with its 35-foot ceilings will offer ample capacity for a new, state-of-the-art museum that will educate visitors about the Sultana tragedy and honor the memory of its victims.

For more information about the Sultana museum and how you can contribute, visit its website at www.sultanadisastermuseum.com.

Have a happy and safe Labor Day weekend, Arkansas!

The Charming Town of Hardy

 

                Hardy is a city located in Fulton and Sharp Counties in the Ozark Mountain range of Arkansas. Situated on the banks of the Spring River created by nearby Mammoth Spring, Hardy is best known for being a mecca of water-related recreation. However, the town is also popular for its antique shops, craft stores, unique restaurants, and musical venues.

                In 1879, the town was founded as Township 17 but was later renamed Hardy in 1883 after local landowner, James Hardy. Hardy was one of Sharp County’s two county seats with Evening Shade being the other. Hardy was officially incorporated as a town on July 12, 1894. The St. Louis, Iron Mountain, and Southern Railroad arrived the same year and brought growth and development to the area.

                By the early 1900s, Hardy became a popular tourist destination, attracting visitors across Arkansas and neighboring states with its natural springs, scenic beauty, and recreational opportunities.

                Memphis doctor, George G. Buford, and his wife were temporarily stranded in Hardy in 1908 when the train they were traveling on experienced mechanical failure. They climbed Wahpeton Hill on the south bank of the Spring River and fell in love with the untouched surroundings. The Bufords bought fifty acres on Wahpeton the next year and erected a summer cottage.

                Buford added to his land holdings over the next few years by purchasing land near Jordan and East Wahpeton Hills. Buford built ten cottages for summer guests on his new land which he named Wahpeton Inn in 1912.  L. L. Ward of Blytheville (Mississippi County) opened a second resort he named Rio Vista in 1932. In addition to the resorts, several Memphis youth organizations established summer camps on land located near Hardy. The Kia Kima summer camp, operated by the Boy Scouts, opened in 1916. Camp Kiwani was established as a Girl Scout camp in 1920.  By 1930, the town had 508 residents in 1930, but visitor numbers ballooned to around a thousand per day between July and September.

                During the Great Depression, Hardy’s economy struggled, but the construction of U.S. Highway 63, which runs through the town, helped revitalize the area. In its course through the Natural State, Highway 63 runs from the Missouri state line at Mammoth Spring to connect with Interstate 55 near Gilmore. The creation of the Ozark National Forest also helped bring much-needed economic revitalization to Hardy and surrounding communities.

                In the 1960s and 1970s, Hardy experienced significant growth, with new businesses, schools, and infrastructure development. However, despite all of the progress made in the city, in 1963, both Hardy and Evening Shade lost their county seat designations, as Ash Flat was named the permanent county seat of Sharp County. In 1968, the Arkansaw Traveller Folk Theater opened in Hardy to preserve the culture of the Ozarks including the story and music behind one of our state’s most historic songs, The Arkansas Traveler, written by Col. Sanford “Sandy” Faulkner.

                Hardy’s most notable residents were the country music duo, The Wilburns. Comprised of brothers Doyle (b. 1930) and Teddy (b. 1931), the Wilburns were successful on the country charts in the 1950s through the 1970s. The brothers performed regularly on the Louisiana Hayride radio show in Shreveport and eventually became members of the prestigious Grand Ole Opry in Nashville. The duo was also popular due to their hit syndicated television program, The Wilburn Brothers Show, which ran from 1963 to 1974.

                While Hardy is the state’s smallest town to boast a historic district, it has 41 commercial buildings listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The entire downtown area is a treasure trove of Arkansas history and features many stores and gift shops located in pre-World War II buildings along the beautiful Spring River.

                In 2014, the Discovery Channel aired a short-lived reality show, Clash of the Ozarks, whose storyline involved a legendary century-old family feud in Hardy. The show ran for one six-episode season but was not renewed.

                Today, Hardy is a thriving city with a strong focus on tourism, outdoor recreation, and small-town charm. As of the 2020 census, the city has 765 residents.

                From those who come for the water sports and fishing opportunities provided by nearby Mammoth Spring and the Spring River to those just passing through, Hardy offers a variety of worthwhile attractions for tourists visiting this small town in the Ozarks.

Lassis Inn

                Founded in 1905, Lassis Inn was a historic restaurant in Little Rock that served delicious soul food for over a hundred years in central Arkansas.

                The restaurant was started by Joe and Molassis (the restaurant’s namesake) Watson when the couple began selling sandwiches out of their Little Rock home around 1905. As their business became increasingly popular, the Watsons began selling fried catfish. When the business outgrew their house, the Watsons opened a small stand-alone building to handle the influx of orders. In 1931, the couple moved the building and business to East 27th Street and later moved it a few blocks to its current location at 518 East 27th Street in the early 1960s to accommodate the construction of Interstate 30. The baby blue-colored wooden building still stands just below the I-30 abutment south of downtown Little Rock.

                Lassis Inn played an important role in the civil rights movement in Arkansas during the 1950s and 1960s, as the restaurant served as a friendly meeting place for civil rights activists, including Daisy Gatson Bates. It was inside the walls of the small restaurant where the group discussed and planned civil rights efforts for the state, such as the desegregation of Little Rock’s Central High School in September 1957.

                Members of the Watson family operated Lassis Inn for decades until 1989, when Elihue Washington, Jr. and his wife, Maria, purchased the restaurant.

                In 2017, Lassis Inn was one of three inductees into the inaugural class of the Department of Arkansas Heritage’s Arkansas Food Hall of Fame alongside Jones Bar-B-Q in Marianna (Lee County) and Rhoda’s Hot Tamales in Lake Village (Chicot County). The restaurant received the prestigious American Classics Award from the James Beard Foundation in 2020. Lassis Inn received another accolade in 2022 when Southern Living magazine named the restaurant to their list of best soul food restaurants in the southern United States. 

                Lassis Inn specialized in fried catfish and buffalo ribs, which are considered a delicacy in the South. Sides such as hushpuppies and fries were also on the menu. The restaurant was notable for having a jukebox flanked with “No Dancing!” signs. The story goes that after the jukebox was installed, customers danced down the small establishment’s narrow aisles. After owner Washington had to make numerous repairs every week after active rounds of dancing, he decided to place the infamous signs reminding customers not to continue the practice.

                In May 2024, it was reported by the Arkansas Democrat-Gazette that the iconic restaurant had permanently closed, much to the chagrin of loyal customers and foodies from across the state. However, in July 2024, it was announced that Lassis Inn would be opening under new owners, Chris Jones and Kristian Nelson, with Washington assisting in the kitchen. While fried fish would still be the staple of the restaurant’s menu, the new owners revealed new items would be added including smoked brisket, baby-back ribs, hamburgers, and loaded baked potatoes.

                The Arkansas Times reported that on July 16, 2024, Elihue Washington filed a lawsuit to get out of the contract to sell the restaurant, citing Nelson’s previous convictions on interstate wire fraud, felony hot-check, and false police report charges, as well as the fact that a check Nelson gave Washington as part of the payment bounced. As such, the fate of Lassis Inn is up in the air.

                As of this writing, several reports in the local media state that Lassis Inn is scheduled to reopen on Tuesday, August 13, and that its hours of operation will be from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 12 a.m. Friday through Saturday, and 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday.

                Hopes remain high that Lassis Inn will indeed reopen and again be a must-visit destination for soul food lovers. If you never got the opportunity to visit the famed restaurant (thankfully I did) and it does reopen, do your tastebuds a favor and visit this historic eatery for a unique Southern dining experience.