Total Eclipse Here in ARK.

 

                Unless you’ve been living under a rock for the past few months, then you know there will be a total solar eclipse occurring on Monday, April 8. According to experts, the best place to see the astronomical wonder is Arkansas. Although the total eclipse will last just approximately four minutes, millions of tourists will be traveling to the state once known as the Land of Opportunity to have the best opportunity to witness the once-in-a-lifetime event.

                I’m no astronomer, but as I understand it, as the sun, moon, and Earth line up perfectly, the sun will become blocked by the moon and then cast a dark shadow on a small portion of our planet. In the middle of the afternoon, the skies above will grow dark and the sun will disappear for several minutes. 

                The moon’s narrow dark shadow will rapidly traverse across the United States at over 1600 mph, making the path of totality, which will travel over most of Arkansas. There will be a huge difference in 95% coverage versus 100% coverage which the Natural State will have, and why so many are traveling to our state to witness it.

                According to the National Weather Service, Little Rock will see the eclipse begin at 12:33 p.m. and will reach 100% totality around 1:52 p.m. and will then be over around 3:11 p.m. Totality length and times will vary slightly across the eclipse’s path. Cities such as Clinton, Danville, DeQueen, Melbourne, Mena and Russellville will enjoy over four minutes of mostly darker skies in the middle of the afternoon.

                When viewing the total eclipse, it is imperative that you do not look at the sun directly without wearing proper eye protection. It’s very important to wear eclipse glasses from a trusted manufacturer. One crucial thing to look for when obtaining your eclipse glasses is to look for the approval stamp of ISO 12312-2 on them. This label means your eyes are fully protected from the dangerous rays of the sun when viewing.

                Some trusted glasses are made by American Paper Optics and Rainbow Symphony. The American Astronomical Society also has several approved products on its website. Many cities, chambers of commerce, public libraries and other agencies and organizations are giving away the glasses for free. My wife and I recently purchased our eclipse glasses for $1.50 a pair in a state park gift shop. We couldn’t beat the price, and they have a commemorative logo and the date of the big event printed on them, making them a great souvenir.

                Another fun way to see the eclipse is to make a pinhole projector. As light goes through the tiny holes, the eclipse is projected on the ground. I remember my co-workers and I at Arkansas Parks and Tourism did this during the last eclipse in August 2017.

                Again, as totality will only last 2-4 minutes be ready to put your eclipse glasses back on as soon as the sunlight begins to show once again. Over the next hour or so the moon’s shadow will retreat to the northeast and skies will brighten up once again. Nature will then return to its normal activities.

                As a result of the influx of visitors to Arkansas, be sure to plan accordingly once the eclipse is over. Expect traffic congestion and slow travel for several hours in some areas. Lines for gas and food have the potential to be extremely long as well. State officials and local law enforcement have been working on a plan for years to help the state’s infrastructure, which will be put to the test on April 8 and the preceding days.

                Let’s hope that no cloudy skies or April showers (even though they bring May flowers) are in the forecast, as any cloud cover or precipitation most would ruin the total solar eclipse here in Arkansas for millions of excited tourists and residents.

                Enjoy the total eclipse, Arkansas!

The Ten Mile House

                

                Partially hidden behind a large magnolia tree along Highway 5 (Stagecoach Road) in Little Rock stands the historic Ten Mile House. The federal-style home is a rare example of the rural homes found in early nineteenth century-Arkansas. Since its construction, the structure has looked much like it did when first built. The Ten Mile House was taken over by Union troops during the Civil War and accommodated those traveling on the Southwest Trail stagecoach line.

                The Ten Mile House, also known as the Stagecoach House and the McHenry House, was built by Archibald McHenry sometime between 1825-1836. Having left Tennessee around 1820, McHenry built a log cabin on property he purchased near Arkansas’ capital city of Little Rock. His children, John and Henry McHenry, later built a brick home adjacent to their father’s log home. 

                Archibald McHenry owned about 1,500-acres along the Southwest Trail, as well as property in the community of Crystal Hill (Pulaski County) by the beginning of the nineteenth century. Along with farming, McHenry was active in local politics-- serving as a public building commissioner, justice of the peace and as Pulaski County coroner. After McHenry’s death in 1835, his two sons inherited his home and vast amounts of property in Crystal Hill and Little Rock. 

                In 1842, John McHenry became acquainted with three men in Little Rock: Robert Brownlee, Sam McMorrin and James McVicar. The men were Scottish stonemasons who had come to Arkansas to work on the construction of the state’s new capitol building (now known as the Old State House) and several other public buildings in Little Rock. As the men were between jobs at the time, Brownlee, McMorrin and McVicar intermittently lived at McHenry’s house for six years. During their stay, the men constructed the brick kitchen and cellar of the Ten Mile House. Brownlee and McMorrin also created the monument to William Gilchrist, Grandmaster of the Grand Lodge of Arkansas, who died in 1843. The sixteen-foot marker is located in the Masonic plot in Mount Holly Cemetery in Little Rock.

                At the same time, Robert Brownlee, built a brick home in Little Rock for his brother, James. The restored home still stands and can be toured as part of the Division of Arkansas Heritage’s Historic Arkansas Museum. The nearby wooden home built by James McVicar between 1846-1849 has also been restored and is part of the museum as well.

                As the Ten Mile House was located on the stagecoach line, it has long been speculated that it served as a stop for weary travelers as an inn and tavern. During the 1863 Union occupation of Little Rock, the Ten Mile House was used as a headquarters for Union forces.

                In January 1863, seventeen-year-old Arkansan David Owen Dodd was held in Union custody overnight in the Ten Mile House’s smokehouse prior to his transfer to the federal arsenal in Little Rock for his trial and execution for being a Confederate spy.

                The Ten Mile House was listed on the National Register of Historic Places on June 22, 1970. Throughout the years, numerous individuals and families have owned the home and its surrounding outbuildings. The historic structure has served as an antique store, tea room, a venue for public dinner parties and weddings and a family residence. Currently, the Ten Mile Home is private property and not open to the public. 

                A stone marker, known as the Confederate Last Stand Monument, stands in front of the Ten Mile House. The monument marks the approximate location of the last skirmish between Union and Confederate troops during the Little Rock Campaign of the Civil War on September 11, 1863. The monument was commissioned by the General T. J. Churchill Chapter of the United Daughters of the Confederacy (UDC), and dedicated on October 15, 1929.

The Ghosttown of Okay

         

       

                Whether it's the state parks I enjoy visiting or the barbecue restaurants I love dining at, there are few things in the Natural State that are just okay. However, such is not the case with the Arkansas town I recently noticed on an antique highway map given out by a gas station years ago.

                Located in Howard County, Okay was a company town founded by the Arkansas-Portland Cement Co. In 1926, Charles Boettcher, owner of Ideal Cement Co. in Denver, sent two of his employees from an Ideal plant in Oklahoma on a mission to search for a possible plant site in southwest Arkansas. Boettcher had heard rumblings of a movement in the Land of Opportunity to improve the state’s roads and bridges. 

                Boettcher’s two scouts, Tom Dodson and Joe Hargis, recommended a site in Howard County due to its rich deposits of chalk and limestone. Boettcher agreed and purchased the property. Soon, work began on building a much needed railroad spur to connect the future plant location to the main railroad line. After the necessary equipment arrived by rail, cement foundations for the site were poured in November 1928.

                About a year later, Arkansas-Portland Cement Co., the new subsidiary of Ideal Cement Co., was dedicated with the explosion of a 20,000-pound blast of dynamite at the new quarry. In October 1929, the plant began production with the first 125 car loads of cement shipped from the plant. The plant’s initial capacity was approximately four million sacks of cement per year.

                 While the plant was being built, an employee village of forty small homes was constructed as well. Named for the company’s OK brand cement, the town included everything needed by its residents. Utilities of indoor water, sewer, electricity and gas were made available, with electricity and water provided free by the company.  In February 1930, a U.S. post office opened in Okay. The town’s mercantile store provided supplies and implements for its residents. On the second floor of the store was a meeting hall where church services were held each Sunday. 

                 The company also built numerous facilities for recreational activities such as baseball, basketball, golf and tennis. On May 24, 1936, the company’s baseball team, the Okay Cementers, was formed and went on to become one of the state's best semi-professional teams.

                As many businesses were forced to during the Great Depression, Okay’s cement plant was forced to close intermittently, and it looked as if it may close permanently. Thankfully, the company was able to keep its doors open when Gov. Huey Long, initiated a major bridge and road construction project in Louisiana. Most of the cement for Long’s infrastructure projects was produced at the Okay plant. And although many of the town’s male residents went off to serve in World War II, the plant was able to continue operating at its full capacity. 

                The plant in Okay remained in operation for over sixty years. But while the size of the Okay plant had doubled by the late 1950s, the company town was slowly disappearing and employees were encouraged to move starting in 1960. The exodus from Okay began soon afterward when the town’s mercantile and much of its recreational facilities were demolished. 

                By the end of 1972, only a church, the cement plant and the plant’s manager’s home stood. While Okay never had more than about 150 residents, by the late 1970s, just two remained. Though the Okay plant consistently turned a profit through the early eighties, its parent company, Ideal Cement, experienced great financial difficulty. In 1986, Ideal Cement sold a controlling interest to a Swiss-based cement company and the Okay plant was permanently closed in 1993. By 1998, Okay was completely abandoned with few remnants of the once-bustling company town remaining.

O Little Town of Jacksonport

                Three miles northwest of Newport at the confluence of the Black and White rivers lies the small town of Jacksonport. With its popular steamboat stop, it was once a bustling town.

                Native Americans lived in the area now known as Jacksonport for thousands of years before white settlers arrived in the 19th century. The town was located along the Southwest Trail, which diagonally crossed Arkansas from the northeast to the southwest into Texas. The abundance of wild game and heavily forested lands attracted trappers and hunters. 

                In 1831, Thomas Tunstall explored the area when his steamboat, Waverly, which was bound for Batesville, was stalled for several days because of low water. Tunstall returned a year later and bought a sawmill at the mouth of Jacks Creek, which was located near the area that became Jacksonport. 

                Tunstall and his family took up residence in the nearby community of Newark and thus never lived in Jacksonport. But Tunstall is considered to be Jacksonport’s founding father, as he opened the town’s first general store and drafted the first plat of the town in 1833. Jacksonport flourished and became a commercial success due to the stable year-round depth of the White River at its location.

                Jacksonport was incorporated in 1852, and became the Jackson County seat the following year. During its heyday, Jacksonport was estimated to have about 1,200 residents. 

                Like other cities and towns in Arkansas, Jacksonport’s economic and population growth came to an abrupt halt due to the start of the Civil War in April 1861. The war took a devastating toll on Jacksonport, as it was the scene of several battles and skirmishes between Confederate and Union forces looking to gain a stronghold on the important riverport town.

                Several years after the war’s end, the Iron Mountain, St. Louis and Southern Railroad built new tracks about three miles downriver at Newport, bypassing Jacksonport. As a result, many residents and businesses left Jacksonport for Newport and the boomtown went bust. Jacksonport’s fortunes worsened in February 1882, when both a flood and a fire destroyed much of the town within the span of a week. In 1891, the residents of Jackson County voted to make Newport the county seat.

                By the early 1900s, Jacksonport’s population had dwindled to 250. Besides a levee built in 1909, new infrastructure improvements at Jacksonport were rare until the former Jackson County courthouse (completed in 1872) was saved from demolition. 

                In 1962, the Jackson County Historical Society purchased the dilapidated structure and surrounding property. The statuesque red brick courthouse was restored and donated to the state to become the centerpiece of Jacksonport Courthouse State Park in June 1965. Now known as Jacksonport State Park, the recreational area is owned and operated by the state Department of Parks, Heritage and Tourism. The courthouse was added to the National Register of Historic Places in January 1970. 

                A new visitors center for the park was completed in 2018. The visitors center features artifacts and exhibits related to Jacksonport’s history, a gift shop and meeting rooms available for rent. Park interpreters still give guided tours of the old courthouse. Along with the courthouse and visitors center, Jacksonport State Park features a 20-site campground, swimming beach, pavilion, picnic sites and a playground for the park’s young visitors. The half-mile Tunstall Riverwalk takes hikers along the White River from the park’s boat launch to its campground. Wildlife and numerous species of birds can be seen regularly along the trail, making for a memorable hike.

                If you’re interested in learning about the early commercial history of our state or simply enjoy seeing beautiful views of one of Arkansas’ most important rivers, Jacksonport State Park and the old town it’s named for is a must-see destination in the Natural State.

The Civil War (Almost) Started Here

                

                On April 12, 1861, the South Carolina Militia fired shots upon Fort Sumter, which marked the beginning of the Civil War. For the next five years, America experienced its great challenges as a nation, with more than 600,000 lives lost and millions of dollars in property damaged or destroyed. But what many people don’t know is that the Civil War almost began in Arkansas.

                Arkansas became the 25th state on June 15, 1836. Later that year, the federal government decided to build a new federal arsenal in Arkansas’ capital city, Little Rock. Gov. James Conway and U.S. Army Major Robert B. Lee chose a site on the outskirts of the city that was the former home to a racetrack once used by a local jockey club. Congress appropriated $14,000 for the arsenal, but the final cost of the building was nearly $30,000. 

                The arsenal was built using timbers from Pine Bluff and rock from the Big Rock Quarry on the north side of the Arkansas River. At the arsenal’s completion, the Arkansas Gazette declared it to be “a splendid specimen of masonry.” Its signature feature: a three-story tower building. Over the next several years, 30 buildings were added to the installation.

                In November 1860, U.S. Army Capt. James Totten was transferred from his previous post in Kansas to become the commander of the federal arsenal in Little Rock. Totten brought 65 troops with him, a move that caused much unrest across the state. On Jan. 28, 1861, Totten was informed by then-Gov. Henry Rector that neither reinforcements nor the removal of any weapons from the arsenal would be tolerated. Totten politely responded that he reported to the federal government and not the state of Arkansas. In the meantime, militias from all over the state began to arrive in Little Rock, prepared to halt any potential reinforcement of the arsenal. 

                The Little Rock City Council demanded that Rector immediately assume control of the militia groups to prevent a potential assault on the arsenal. Rector responded that he didn’t have authority over such groups. The city council then called upon the Capital Guards, a militia group headquartered in Little Rock. By Feb. 6, Rector persuaded Totten to surrender the arsenal to the Arkansas militia troops. In order to prevent a serious military conflict between southern militias and the federal government, Totten agreed. 

                A few days later, the Capitol Guards escorted Totten and his troops from the arsenal. Totten and his men boarded a ship to St. Louis four days later. While he waited to leave the city, Totten received a sword from the ladies of Little Rock in honor of his heroic conduct during the arsenal crisis. By avoiding conflict, Totten had earned the respect of many Little Rock citizens and his U.S. Army superiors — and possibly avoided starting a war. 

                In 1863, federal troops entered Little Rock and occupied the arsenal for the remainder of the war. From 1863 to its decommissioning in 1890, the arsenal became a housing complex, with weapons stores being replaced with rooms for soldiers and families. And it was under that circumstance that the arsenal became famous as the birthplace of an iconic American World War II general, Douglas MacArthur. MacArthur's father, Gen. Arthur MacArthur, was stationed in Little Rock in 1880 when Douglas was born. 

                Ultimately, the federal government gave the arsenal to the city of Little Rock. Its grounds were converted to a public park and all its buildings, except for the tower building, were demolished or sold.

                The tower building stood vacant until the late 1930s, when Little Rock began to renovate the historic building. In 1942, the Museum of Natural History and Antiquities opened in the tower building. The museum’s name changed in 1964, to the Museum of Science and Natural History, and again in 1983, to the Arkansas Museum of Science and History. In 1997, the museum moved to a new location in the River Market, where it is now called the Museum of Discovery.

                The arsenal was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in July 1970, and named a National Historic Landmark in April 1994. Today, it is the home of the MacArthur Museum of Arkansas Military History.

                If you get the opportunity, visit the tower building and take the self-guided tour around the old arsenal grounds. It's a beautiful park that, had one federal general not kept his cool, could have been ground zero for America’s bloodiest conflict.

A Pilgrim-age to Mayflower

 

                Years ago, when I commuted to college from Sherwood (Pulaski County) to Conway (Faulkner County), I would often times take Highway 365 which took me through the town of Mayflower. Being a history buff, I always wondered about the town’s unusual name and if it had a connection to the pilgrims who landed at Plymouth Rock in 1620.

                The beginning of what today is Mayflower can be traced back to the white settlers, known then as Tories, who moved west to flee the Revolutionary War. Such Tory families as the Flannagins and Massengills arrived in the Mayflower area about 1778, and settled near the mouth of Palarm Creek. 

                So, how did Mayflower get its name? Well, in 1871, the railroad used the settlement as a telegraph station from the construction superintendent’s car. According to legend, the superintendent used “Mayflower” as his telegraph call sign, thus the name became associated with the then-unnamed area. Why the name of Mayflower was used is not known.

                Like much of Arkansas, the land in and around Mayflower was mostly forested and logged until the end of the twentieth century. Several plantations were also built in the area to farm cotton. Cotton grew well there due to the area’s fertile soil. 

                The first post office in Mayflower opened on November 9, 1880. Worley E. Vanlandingham as served as the office’s first postmaster. The town of Mayflower was officially incorporated on March 6, 1928. Dr. J.R. Kitley was elected as its first mayor.

                During the Great Depression of the 1930s, a canning kitchen was set up in Mayflower to help farmers preserve food grown on their farms. Mrs. Gena Hathaway was the kitchen’s operator. A magnolia tree, which is approximately 100-years-old, stands at the corner of Center and Miller streets where the canning kitchen once stood.

                One of the most popular draws to Mayflower is Lake Conway. At 6,700-acres, Lake Conway is the largest lake created by a state agency and the first to be created by the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission (AG&FC). Lake Conway was created in 1948 by damning Palarm Creek. The reservoir has been a habitat to several major sportfish such as bass, bluegill, crappie, and both blue and flathead catfish. The AG&FC began draining Lake Conway in Nov. 2023 for silt remediation and modification of its aging spillway gates. The lake is currently on track to be empty for approximately five years.

                On March 29, 2013, a massive oil spill took place near Mayflower when an Exxon/Mobil pipeline carrying heavy crude oil burst near the town causing thousands of barrels of oil to spill. This incident resulted in the evacuation of 22 homes and substantial damage to the area’s ecosystem.

                Another catastrophic event happened in Mayflower on April 27, 2014, as the town was hit by an EF4 tornado around 8 p.m. The tornado stayed on the ground for over an hour and traveled along a 40-mile path. Sixteen Arkansans lost their lives due to the tornado, while 193 others were seriously injured. The fatalities made this the deadliest severe weather event in Arkansas history since the F4 tornado that killed 35 in May 1968. 

                The Mayflower tornado was part of a widespread and deadly tornado outbreak, which terrorized the central and southern portions of the United States in April 2014. The massive severe weather event was responsible for producing several multiple long-track tornadoes. Seven of these tornadoes were deadly, causing known 36 fatalities and billions of dollars in damage to property.

                On May 13, 2014, then-president Barack Obama toured nearby Vilonia to survey the damage caused by the tornado and visited with the town’s residents (including a good friend whose house was destroyed by the tornado and was given a challenge coin by the president). Obama later flew over Mayflower for a look at the destruction from the sky. 

                As of the 2020 census, Mayflower has 1,984 residents, none of whom identify as pilgrims.

Find Romance in Arkansas

                

                This week, we celebrate Valentine’s Day, a day to express your love to that special someone in your life. And while people across the country commemorate this romantic holiday, here in “The Natural State,” we have romance all year long in a small community in northern Arkansas.

                With about 1,800 residents, Romance is an unincorporated community located about halfway between Rose Bud and El Paso in White County. As a child traveling with my family, I passed through Romance countless times on the way to spend weekends at Greers Ferry Lake. And I was always intrigued by the area’s unusual name.

                While there is no evidence, legend claims that a local teacher named the town, believing that the view from the bluffs on the community's eastern side was very romantic.

                And although we don’t know who exactly gave the community its name, there is no doubt that the name proved to be of the utmost importance in maintaining Romance's most visible business — a small U.S. Post Office branch. The local post office is one of several post offices across America that has gained significant attention because of its "love-themed" names. Others include Cupid, Iowa, Heart, Montana, and Lovers Leap, California. 

                In 1990, Romance was chosen as the first location to issue that year's stamp in the postal service’s Love Stamp series. The stamp changes each year, although the love theme is present in all its variations. Romance has been chosen again as the location for first-day issuance of the 2024 “Love” stamp.

                The Romance post office is especially busy for its special postmarks of cards for Valentine’s Day, as well as for wedding invitations. According to the U.S. Postal Service, the office receives, postmarks and mails about 7,500 valentines and wedding invitations yearly. It takes a lot to hand cancel — so much that one former postmaster got carpal tunnel syndrome from the repetition! 

                In the past few years, a small number of couples have held their weddings on the post office’s grounds. But this practice is not affiliated with the post office.

                If you wish to mail your own valentines or wedding invitations with the special Romance postmark, send your pre-addressed valentines or invitations in a USPS Priority Mail or Express Mail envelope or box to: Postmaster, Valentine Remailing, Romance, AR 72136-9998.

                While it does have a post office, Romance is not an incorporated city or town in Arkansas. As such, its local government is part of the jurisdiction of the White County judge, who serves as the county's chief executive. Residents of Romance are represented legislatively by the county's quorum court. Local law enforcement is provided by the White County Sheriff's Department, as well as constables for Kentucky and Marshall townships.

                There are few businesses in Romance, so most residents find themselves commuting to jobs in the surrounding area — places like Rose Bud, Searcy and Jacksonville. Many Romance residents farm grass and hay, raise livestock and operate meat processing businesses. Romance is also home to a couple of antique shops/homemade craft stores. The land in and around Romance is part of the Fayetteville Shale Play, an area for natural gas exploration in north Arkansas that started around 2005.

                A small southern portion of the Romance area is controlled by the U.S. Air Force for use as a parachute drop zone for Little Rock Air Force Base in Jacksonville, which is about 33 miles south of Romance. The drop zone was first established in 1982 and has been in constant use since.

                Let me close on this interesting tidbit about Romance. If for some reason you find yourself watching the 1988 movie “Homeboy,” starring Mickey Rourke, look closely at Rourke’s character, Johnny Walker. Walker, for some unexplained reason, wears a Romance, Arkansas, belt buckle throughout the film.

                Happy Valentine’s Day, Arkansas! 

Much Ado About Marshall

                

                On a recent weekend trip to Branson, my wife and I passed through Marshall, Arkansas. As many travelers along US Highway 65 do, we stopped at the beautiful overlook to take in the majestic view of the Ozark Mountains. And while those amazing views are arguably what Marshall is best known for, there’s much more to this charming city.

                Marshall is the Searcy County seat and its largest city, with a population of about 1,300. The city lies at the foot of the Boston Mountain range and is about 11 miles south of America's first national river, the Buffalo National River. As such, Marshall serves as a center for area tourism. Camping, floating and hiking are just a few of the recreational opportunities that the national river offers.

                The history of Marshall dates to the earliest known settlers in the region, the Paleo Indians. The Paleo lived in what is now Marshall around 15,000 years ago. Numerous Paleo artifacts have been found in the area, including pottery shards and spear points.

                 In 1804, after the Louisiana Purchase, the federal government began relocating Native Americans in the southeast U.S. to Indian Territory, now Oklahoma. The Cherokees who were brought through Arkansas on the Trail of Tears clashed with the Osage. The Osage were one of the three main tribes of what became our state. In 1817, the Treaty of the Cherokee Agency set aside land in northwest Arkansas. This land became the first Cherokee reservation west of the Mississippi River. And to help with the conflict between the two tribes, the Cherokees extended an invitation to the Shawnee to settle in the Buffalo River area.

                The Shawnee established a village southwest of present-day Marshall. The chief of the village is believed to be Chief Peter Cornstalk, the grandson and namesake of the great chief of the Shawnee during the Revolutionary War. 

                Chief Cornstalk married Mary Adams in the mid-1930s. She was the granddaughter of Robert Adams, who was one of the original white settlers in the area. By the late 1840s, all tribes had been moved to Indian Territory.

                The first white settlement was located at the foot of Devil’s Backbone Mountain in a community called Raccoon Springs. The county seat was moved from Lebanon to Raccoon Springs in 1856, and it was renamed Burrowville (spelled Burrowsville in some early records) after Napoleon Bonaparte Burrow, a Crawford County planter and Democratic politician.

                The Civil War era was a significant time of change for Marshall. The name of the town was changed, population declined for years, and after the war’s end, Arkansas became a two-party political system in what for many years was a one-party (Democratic) state. And sadly, much of the town had been burned, including the county courthouse and county records. Union-supporting residents pushed to change the town's name from Burrowville to Marshall after U.S. Supreme Court Chief Justice John Marshall. The name change was approved by the state Legislature on March 18, 1867.

                By the 1950s Marshall had become an agricultural town and strawberries were its major crop. In fact, during this time, the town promoted itself as the “Strawberry Capital of the World.” Of course, this didn’t sit too well with Bald Knob (White County), who promoted itself as the same.

                But all good things must end, and by the late 1960s, the strawberry industry was moving to states out west such as California and Texas. General stores and mercantiles were closing and being replaced with national companies like Sears and Walmart. These conditions and several others caused the beginning of a major change in the economy of the small Searcy County town. 

                Today, Marshall’s economy is a mix of retail, general services and limited manufacturing, but tourism is its driving force.

Arkansas's Only Auto Manufacturer

 

                Perhaps you’ve driven by a large old green and white building located at 1823 East 17th Street in Little Rock which appears to be a warehouse or a a former factory. Hundreds of people drive past this structure every day not knowing that at one time it housed Arkansas’s only automobile manufacturer-- the Climber Motor Corporation.

                Climber produced both cars and trucks that were meant to better handle the state’s antiquated road system than previous modes of transportation. Three Little Rock businessmen, William Drake, Clarence Roth and Davis Hopson incorporated the Climber Motor Corporation in 1919. Their goal was to produce automobiles that would drive well on paved roads, as well as the primitive dirt and gravel roads once abundant in Arkansas. The men also wanted their vehicles to be able to climb (henceforth the name Climber) the steep roads in the Ozark Mountains as well as the flat long stretches of road found in Arkansas’s delta.

                The company’s first incarnation of its board of directors was made up of Drake as president, Roth as vice president and Hopson as secretary-treasurer. A company reorganization in October 1919 resulted in Henry Buhler, Climber’s general manager, being promoted to president. Lloyd Judd became treasurer and Richard Fletcher became secretary and plant manager. Roth remained on as vice president. Two of the three founders, Drake and Hopson, both left Climber to pursue other opportunities.

                For its first production facility, Climber Motor Corporation purchased a 20-acre site on East 17th Street in Little Rock. Its location was perfect, as it was both far from the city’s residential areas and located next to tracks operated by the Rock Island and Missouri Pacific railroads.

                Construction on Climber’s first factory began in January 1919, with the truck division being the first (and ultimately only) building built. According to blueprints located in the state archives, several other buildings were planned but never constructed. The truck factory was finished later that year. As construction began on Climber’s production facility, the board of directors began raising capital, finding skilled workers and obtaining the materials and parts needed to produce automobiles. 

                Unfortunately, Climber production got off to a rocky start. Its factory was constantly dealing with a parts shortage to the point Climber employees were forced to design and make their own. In October 1919, the company was reorganized again and William Drake retired as its president. Eventually, most all of Climber’s initial production problems were resolved by early 1920.

 

                In an effort to drum up excitement about their vehicles, Climber paraded 19 cars up Little Rock’s Main Street with Arkansas governor Charles Brough riding in the lead car. In another publicity effort, a Climber car was driven up the steps of Arkansas’s state capitol building. The thought  was that if a Climber car could climb up the capitol steps successfully, it could handle any terrain in the state.   

                Despite the board’s best efforts, a constant shortage of capital plagued the company from the start. And even with an initial $1 million stock offering and a massive marketing campaign, Climber was forced to file bankruptcy in February 1924. The Pulaski County Chancery Court placed Climber under the control of a receiver, attorney Xenophon O. Pindall. Pindall sold all of Climber’s holdings and the company closed its doors. At its end, the Climber Motor Corporation produced approximately 200 cars and about 75 trucks. Following its closure, Climber’s truck factory building was used to build light aircraft, and later, toilet paper.

                Out of the nearly 300 vehicles Climber manufactured, only two are known to have survived and both are part of the collection of the Museum of Automobiles atop Petit Jean Mountain near Morrilton (Conway County). 

                Today, the Climber Motor Corporation truck factory building is still standing and is currently in use. The historical significance of the building was recognized with it being listed on the National Register of Historic Places in June 2005. 

The de Soto Expedition of Arkansas

                

                One of the most famous people in Arkansas history also happens to be one of its most controversial and mysterious — Hernando de Soto. Perhaps you remember hearing the name from 8th grade Arkansas history or seeing his name and image on various monuments and markers across the Natural State.

                Hernando de Soto was a Spanish explorer who led an expedition through the southern United States. De Soto and his band of soldiers were the first Europeans to visit the land that eventually became Arkansas. 

                It is believed de Soto was born in Spain around 1500, but his exact birthdate is unknown. Hernando was the second son of Francisco Méndez de Soto and Leonor Arias (Tinoco) de Soto. Although the de Soto family was reportedly of noble heritage, Hernando himself was poor and forced to borrow money to travel to the new world in 1514.

                Once de Soto made it to central America, he became a soldier and fought in raids and battles in Nicaragua, Panama and Peru. In just a few years, de Soto had developed a reputation as mean but cunning. And during his time in military service, de Soto became wealthy from his involvement in the Indian slave trade.

                In November 1536, de Soto returned to Spain to marry Isabel de Bobadilla. He also petitioned Spain’s King Charles V for a governorship in central America. The Spanish king considered de Soto’s request and offered him the opportunity to explore and conquer the area known as Florida. As part of the deal, King Charles V made de Soto governor of Cuba, which served as a base for de Soto’s planned conquest of Florida. In 1537, de Soto began gathering supplies and hired an army to participate in his expedition to the new world.

                After a couple of years of preparation, de Soto and 600 men — along with horses, pigs and equipment— set out from Cuba in May 1539. His agreement with Charles V required de Soto to explore the region and establish settlements and forts in the name of Spain. After landing on the southwest coast of Florida, de Soto and crew traveled through the southeastern area of the eventual United States before crossing the Mississippi River into what is now Arkansas on June 28, 1541. 

                It is accepted by most Arkansas historians that Hernando de Soto and his men were the first Europeans to set foot in Arkansas. There are four known accounts of the expedition through the lands of Arkansas that describe the Indians the Spanish group encountered in the next two years. Historians and scholars have long been unsure of de Soto’s actual route, but throughout the years, archaeologists have discovered Spanish artifacts at a few archaeological sites named in the accounts — solid evidence of the de Soto expedition.

                Hernando de Soto and his group’s relations with most of the native Americans of Arkansas were for the most part friendly, but de Soto and his soldiers also had no qualms of torturing and savagely killing those who refused to cooperate.

                After traveling around the area for almost a year (reportedly through modern-day cities such as Benton, Helena and Hot Springs), de Soto led his party back to the Mississippi River, somewhere in southeast Arkansas. By that time, he and most of his entourage were disillusioned and tired of the difficult journey and the battles with Indians over the past three years. De Soto eventually fell ill with fever and died at Guachoya, which many experts believe is now the city of Lake Village (Chicot County) in May 1542.

                Fearing the vandalism of his body and the consequences if the natives confirmed de Soto’s death, his men dug up the body at night, weighted it down and dumped it into the Mississippi River. 

                De Soto’s expedition in Arkansas was largely considered a failure, as fame and fortune escaped him. When he arrived in Arkansas, he was a proud, resilient conqueror. But in the end, the future land of opportunity offered none to de Soto and his party.

The Hoo-Hoo of Gurdon

                If you’ve driven through the town of Gurdon (Clark County), you might have noticed an old log building adorned by a strange black cat with the words, “The International Concatenated Order of Hoo-Hoo.” And unless you’re a member or know your Arkansas history, you’ve wondered who or what the Hoo-Hoo are. 

                Recently, my wife and I found ourselves in a similar situation in the south Arkansas timber town. Having just visited a couple of nearby state parks, we both noticed the strange name and symbol just off Main Street. I knew I had to learn more.

                Turns out, the International Concatenated Order of Hoo-Hoo is an active fraternal society for male workers in the timber industry that was founded in Gurdon in January 1892.

                The story goes that while stuck in Gurdon waiting on a delayed train, Bolling A. Johnson, a writer for The Timberman trade newspaper based in Chicago, and George Smith, secretary for the Southern Lumber Manufacturers Association in St. Louis, discussed the possibility of forming a unified lumber fraternity. The two approached fellow lumbermen George Washington Schwartz, William Starr Mitchell, William Eddy Barns and Ludolph Strauss (who were all waiting on the same delayed train) with the idea. 

                From that discussion, a new fraternal order was created. The name first suggested for the new fraternity was "The Ancient Order of Camp Followers." But it was decided the name was “uninteresting” and a new name was chosen — “The International Concatenated Order of Hoo-Hoo.” The term “hoo-hoo” had become a nickname for a lumberman. Its emblem — a black cat with its tail curled into the shape of a figure nine — represents a cat’s nine lives. 

                Members of the Hoo-Hoo take an oath that says: “I promise that I will aid in every way possible, in the promotion of the welfare and interest of our country, and of our Order, and of the forest product industry. I will do all in my power, in the promotion of friendship, confidence and education, so that to others as well as myself, there may result health, happiness and long life.”

                The first regular gathering of the Hoo-Hoo was held Feb. 18, 1892, at the elegant St. Charles Hotel in New Orleans, when 35 of the leading lumbermen of the country were initiated.

                Initially, membership in the Hoo-Hoo was limited to white men ages 21 and older who were engaged in the lumber industry as lumbermen, newspapermen and railroad workers. Mrs. M.A. Smith of Smithton (Clark County) was initiated before the gender requirement was passed, so she was allowed to remain as the organization’s only female member. In the late 1890s, membership had grown to more than 5,000. By the early 1920s, it had grown to about 7,000, and by the 1950s, Hoo-Hoo boasted 15,000 active members.

                According to the official Hoo-Hoo website (hoohoo.org), membership today is limited to people 18 and older who are of “good moral character” and are “engaged in the forestry industry or genuinely interested in supporting the purpose and aims of our order.” The group has grown into an international organization, with more than 100,000 dues paying members in the U.S., Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Malaysia and South Africa.

                The Hoo-Hoo International office and museum share a log cabin built by the Works Progress Administration (WPA) in the early 1930s at 207 Main St. in Gurdon, one block from the site where Hoo-Hoo was founded in 1892. The museum was dedicated on April 11, 1981.

                Now you know who the Hoo-Hoo are and so do I. Stay safe and warm this week, Arkansas!

The Battlefield of Poison Springs

                

                In last week’s column, I wrote about White Oak Lake and the state park alongside its shore. I mentioned that one of the park’s great amenities is its visitors’ center, which includes artifacts from nearby Poison Springs Battlefield State Park. These historic items, which include ammunition, belt buckles, buttons and other pieces, are located in the White Oak Lake State Park visitors’ center because there is no visitors’ center at Poison Springs. But there is a lot to see and do, especially if you love visiting Arkansas Civil War battle sites as much as I do.

 

                Poison Spring Battlefield State Park is located about 10 miles northwest of Camden. The park commemorates the Civil War battle fought on its grounds on April 18, 1864. 

 

                In March 1864, Union Gen. Frederick Steele led about 15,000 trained soldiers out of Little Rock to join in the Union’s Red River Campaign. The goal of the plan was to join Gen. Nathaniel Banks’ troops in northern Louisiana and eventually invade Texas. 

                Steele and his troops seized Camden on April 15 but did not continue onward to Louisiana. Instead, Steele sent troops to gather supplies from nearby farms. On April 17, Col. James M. Williams led roughly 600 federal troops, many of whom were former slaves, to forage the farms and forests west of Camden. When Williams and his men were returning to Camden the following day, they were attacked by Confederate forces led by generals John Marmaduke and Samuel Bell Maxey. 

                Union forces suffered more than 300 casualties while the Confederates lost only 114. This defeat, along with a similar loss to the rebels at Marks’ Mills on April 25, caused Steele and his troops to abandon the Camden area and return to Little Rock on May 3.

 

                Interestingly, no one seems to know why the battle and the park are called Poison Springs. The name Poison Spring was known to Camden-area residents at the time of the action and was used in battle reports, but its origins are uncertain. Years after the Civil War’s end, local tales claimed that the Union troops became sick after drinking the cold spring water, which the Confederates had poisoned. But there is no evidence to confirm the story.

 

                The 85-acre Poison Springs Battlefield State Park is located on both sides of Arkansas Highway 76. The highway was built along the road used by the Union supply train when it was roadblocked and attacked by the Confederate force during the battle of Poison Springs. But the battle covered a much larger area, estimated by historians to be as large as 9,000 acres. 

 

                    Act 182, passed by the Arkansas General Assembly in 1961, established Poison Spring Battleground State Park, and it is one of three state parks that commemorate the Camden Expedition (including Jenkins’ Ferry and Marks’ Mills). The day-use only park is operated by the state parks division of the Arkansas Department of Parks, Heritage & Tourism and features outdoor interpretive signage, trails and picnic sites. As there is no visitors’ center on site, there are no bathrooms or exhibits. For those, you will need to visit nearby White Oak Lake State Park. But for those of you participating in the Arkansas State Parks Club 52 passport program, there is a place where you can make a pencil rubbing of the stamp at the park.

 

                    Poison Springs Battlefield State Park was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1969, and along with eight other sites, is part of the Camden Expedition Sites National Historic Landmark. The park was declared part of the National Historic Landmark on April 19, 1994.

White Oak Lake and State Park

 

                Located in Nevada and Ouachita Counties in southwest Arkansas, White Oak Lake State Park near Bluff City sits alongside the lake from which it takes its name. The park offers access to fishing on White Oak Lake, as well as other activities such as camping, picnicking and hiking. The lake itself is a fisherman’s oasis, as it’s filled with bass, crappie, catfish and bream. And for those who love to see wildlife, the state park has an abundance of great blue herons, egrets, ospreys, green heronsand bald eagles.

                The land that is now under White Oak Lake was purchased by the federal government in the late-1930s as a result of the Bankhead-Jones Farm Tenant Act. This act of Congress was passed to assist farmers during the Great Depression making it possible for farmers to own their own land rather than staying in tenant arrangements. In 1957, the Arkansas state legislature acquired the land and specially designated it for conservation and recreational purposes. 

                In 1961, the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission (AGFC) built White Oak Lake. The lake actually consists of two sections: a 1,031-acre upper lake south of Highway 387 and a 1,735-acre lower lake north of the highway. White Oak is the second largest lake created by the AGFC with the largest being Lake Conway in central Arkansas. 

                In Nov. 1964, the AGFC leased land for a state park on the lower section of White Oak Lake to the Arkansas Publicity and Parks Commission (now the Arkansas Department of Parks, Heritage and Tourism). The 510-acre park opened to the publicon April 1, 1967. On March 7, 1969, the park received official legislative approval as a state park by Act 192.

                Since its opening in 1967, White Oak Lake State Park has experienced significant further development and expansion. Thanks to the state’s Amendment 75 conservation tax, which is a one-eighth-percent sales tax that was approved by voters in 1996, a complete renovation of the park’s camping facilities was completed in June 2000.

                Located on park grounds is a visitors’ center which not only features exhibits about the state park, but also nearby Poison Springs Battlefield State Park, where a Civil War battle took place in April 1864. Ammunition, belt buckles, buttons and other items found at the Poison Springs battlefield site are part of the display. White Oak Lake State Park is home to a marinaand store which rents fishing boats, party barges, canoes and other watercraft. The park also features a campground, bathhouse, boat launch ramp, a picnic area with pavilions and a playground. During summer months, park staff offer interesting interpretive programs. For more information on camping rates, rental fees and park programming contact the park office at 870-685-2748.

            Biking and hiking trails are also very popular at White Oak Lake State Park. In several places along the park’s three trails, snow white sand can be seen on the forest’s floor. This sand is a remnant of when the Gulf of Mexico covered much of what today is the southern United States approximately 40-60 million years ago. 

            Both White Oak Lake and the state park are quite popular with local residents. However, its location in a part of our state where few tourists visit keeps them from being crowded and burdened with traffic. It is estimated nearly 70,000 people visit the park each year.

            If you’re looking for a great place to fish and spot some wildlife, White Oak Lake and state park is a great place to go.Whether you go for just a day or camp a few nights, you will definitely enjoy this part of the Natural State that’s a bit off the beaten path.

            Happy new year, Arkansas!