The Hoo-Hoo of Gurdon

                If you’ve driven through the town of Gurdon (Clark County), you might have noticed an old log building adorned by a strange black cat with the words, “The International Concatenated Order of Hoo-Hoo.” And unless you’re a member or know your Arkansas history, you’ve wondered who or what the Hoo-Hoo are. 

                Recently, my wife and I found ourselves in a similar situation in the south Arkansas timber town. Having just visited a couple of nearby state parks, we both noticed the strange name and symbol just off Main Street. I knew I had to learn more.

                Turns out, the International Concatenated Order of Hoo-Hoo is an active fraternal society for male workers in the timber industry that was founded in Gurdon in January 1892.

                The story goes that while stuck in Gurdon waiting on a delayed train, Bolling A. Johnson, a writer for The Timberman trade newspaper based in Chicago, and George Smith, secretary for the Southern Lumber Manufacturers Association in St. Louis, discussed the possibility of forming a unified lumber fraternity. The two approached fellow lumbermen George Washington Schwartz, William Starr Mitchell, William Eddy Barns and Ludolph Strauss (who were all waiting on the same delayed train) with the idea. 

                From that discussion, a new fraternal order was created. The name first suggested for the new fraternity was "The Ancient Order of Camp Followers." But it was decided the name was “uninteresting” and a new name was chosen — “The International Concatenated Order of Hoo-Hoo.” The term “hoo-hoo” had become a nickname for a lumberman. Its emblem — a black cat with its tail curled into the shape of a figure nine — represents a cat’s nine lives. 

                Members of the Hoo-Hoo take an oath that says: “I promise that I will aid in every way possible, in the promotion of the welfare and interest of our country, and of our Order, and of the forest product industry. I will do all in my power, in the promotion of friendship, confidence and education, so that to others as well as myself, there may result health, happiness and long life.”

                The first regular gathering of the Hoo-Hoo was held Feb. 18, 1892, at the elegant St. Charles Hotel in New Orleans, when 35 of the leading lumbermen of the country were initiated.

                Initially, membership in the Hoo-Hoo was limited to white men ages 21 and older who were engaged in the lumber industry as lumbermen, newspapermen and railroad workers. Mrs. M.A. Smith of Smithton (Clark County) was initiated before the gender requirement was passed, so she was allowed to remain as the organization’s only female member. In the late 1890s, membership had grown to more than 5,000. By the early 1920s, it had grown to about 7,000, and by the 1950s, Hoo-Hoo boasted 15,000 active members.

                According to the official Hoo-Hoo website (hoohoo.org), membership today is limited to people 18 and older who are of “good moral character” and are “engaged in the forestry industry or genuinely interested in supporting the purpose and aims of our order.” The group has grown into an international organization, with more than 100,000 dues paying members in the U.S., Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Malaysia and South Africa.

                The Hoo-Hoo International office and museum share a log cabin built by the Works Progress Administration (WPA) in the early 1930s at 207 Main St. in Gurdon, one block from the site where Hoo-Hoo was founded in 1892. The museum was dedicated on April 11, 1981.

                Now you know who the Hoo-Hoo are and so do I. Stay safe and warm this week, Arkansas!

The Battlefield of Poison Springs

                

                In last week’s column, I wrote about White Oak Lake and the state park alongside its shore. I mentioned that one of the park’s great amenities is its visitors’ center, which includes artifacts from nearby Poison Springs Battlefield State Park. These historic items, which include ammunition, belt buckles, buttons and other pieces, are located in the White Oak Lake State Park visitors’ center because there is no visitors’ center at Poison Springs. But there is a lot to see and do, especially if you love visiting Arkansas Civil War battle sites as much as I do.

 

                Poison Spring Battlefield State Park is located about 10 miles northwest of Camden. The park commemorates the Civil War battle fought on its grounds on April 18, 1864. 

 

                In March 1864, Union Gen. Frederick Steele led about 15,000 trained soldiers out of Little Rock to join in the Union’s Red River Campaign. The goal of the plan was to join Gen. Nathaniel Banks’ troops in northern Louisiana and eventually invade Texas. 

                Steele and his troops seized Camden on April 15 but did not continue onward to Louisiana. Instead, Steele sent troops to gather supplies from nearby farms. On April 17, Col. James M. Williams led roughly 600 federal troops, many of whom were former slaves, to forage the farms and forests west of Camden. When Williams and his men were returning to Camden the following day, they were attacked by Confederate forces led by generals John Marmaduke and Samuel Bell Maxey. 

                Union forces suffered more than 300 casualties while the Confederates lost only 114. This defeat, along with a similar loss to the rebels at Marks’ Mills on April 25, caused Steele and his troops to abandon the Camden area and return to Little Rock on May 3.

 

                Interestingly, no one seems to know why the battle and the park are called Poison Springs. The name Poison Spring was known to Camden-area residents at the time of the action and was used in battle reports, but its origins are uncertain. Years after the Civil War’s end, local tales claimed that the Union troops became sick after drinking the cold spring water, which the Confederates had poisoned. But there is no evidence to confirm the story.

 

                The 85-acre Poison Springs Battlefield State Park is located on both sides of Arkansas Highway 76. The highway was built along the road used by the Union supply train when it was roadblocked and attacked by the Confederate force during the battle of Poison Springs. But the battle covered a much larger area, estimated by historians to be as large as 9,000 acres. 

 

                    Act 182, passed by the Arkansas General Assembly in 1961, established Poison Spring Battleground State Park, and it is one of three state parks that commemorate the Camden Expedition (including Jenkins’ Ferry and Marks’ Mills). The day-use only park is operated by the state parks division of the Arkansas Department of Parks, Heritage & Tourism and features outdoor interpretive signage, trails and picnic sites. As there is no visitors’ center on site, there are no bathrooms or exhibits. For those, you will need to visit nearby White Oak Lake State Park. But for those of you participating in the Arkansas State Parks Club 52 passport program, there is a place where you can make a pencil rubbing of the stamp at the park.

 

                    Poison Springs Battlefield State Park was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1969, and along with eight other sites, is part of the Camden Expedition Sites National Historic Landmark. The park was declared part of the National Historic Landmark on April 19, 1994.

White Oak Lake and State Park

 

                Located in Nevada and Ouachita Counties in southwest Arkansas, White Oak Lake State Park near Bluff City sits alongside the lake from which it takes its name. The park offers access to fishing on White Oak Lake, as well as other activities such as camping, picnicking and hiking. The lake itself is a fisherman’s oasis, as it’s filled with bass, crappie, catfish and bream. And for those who love to see wildlife, the state park has an abundance of great blue herons, egrets, ospreys, green heronsand bald eagles.

                The land that is now under White Oak Lake was purchased by the federal government in the late-1930s as a result of the Bankhead-Jones Farm Tenant Act. This act of Congress was passed to assist farmers during the Great Depression making it possible for farmers to own their own land rather than staying in tenant arrangements. In 1957, the Arkansas state legislature acquired the land and specially designated it for conservation and recreational purposes. 

                In 1961, the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission (AGFC) built White Oak Lake. The lake actually consists of two sections: a 1,031-acre upper lake south of Highway 387 and a 1,735-acre lower lake north of the highway. White Oak is the second largest lake created by the AGFC with the largest being Lake Conway in central Arkansas. 

                In Nov. 1964, the AGFC leased land for a state park on the lower section of White Oak Lake to the Arkansas Publicity and Parks Commission (now the Arkansas Department of Parks, Heritage and Tourism). The 510-acre park opened to the publicon April 1, 1967. On March 7, 1969, the park received official legislative approval as a state park by Act 192.

                Since its opening in 1967, White Oak Lake State Park has experienced significant further development and expansion. Thanks to the state’s Amendment 75 conservation tax, which is a one-eighth-percent sales tax that was approved by voters in 1996, a complete renovation of the park’s camping facilities was completed in June 2000.

                Located on park grounds is a visitors’ center which not only features exhibits about the state park, but also nearby Poison Springs Battlefield State Park, where a Civil War battle took place in April 1864. Ammunition, belt buckles, buttons and other items found at the Poison Springs battlefield site are part of the display. White Oak Lake State Park is home to a marinaand store which rents fishing boats, party barges, canoes and other watercraft. The park also features a campground, bathhouse, boat launch ramp, a picnic area with pavilions and a playground. During summer months, park staff offer interesting interpretive programs. For more information on camping rates, rental fees and park programming contact the park office at 870-685-2748.

            Biking and hiking trails are also very popular at White Oak Lake State Park. In several places along the park’s three trails, snow white sand can be seen on the forest’s floor. This sand is a remnant of when the Gulf of Mexico covered much of what today is the southern United States approximately 40-60 million years ago. 

            Both White Oak Lake and the state park are quite popular with local residents. However, its location in a part of our state where few tourists visit keeps them from being crowded and burdened with traffic. It is estimated nearly 70,000 people visit the park each year.

            If you’re looking for a great place to fish and spot some wildlife, White Oak Lake and state park is a great place to go.Whether you go for just a day or camp a few nights, you will definitely enjoy this part of the Natural State that’s a bit off the beaten path.

            Happy new year, Arkansas!

The Center of Arkansas

                The bustling Saline County city of Bryant's story begins with the old stagecoach road that connected southeastern United States to the former Mexican territory of Texas. According to common local legend, the first white settlers along Hurricane Creek were traveling to Texas, but the high rushing waters of the flooded creek stopped them from continuing their journey. While waiting for the water to settle, the travelers decided to stay in the area, create their own settlement and forgo plans of moving to Texas.

                This settlement was originally known as Dogwood Springs. Around 1835, the community’s name was changed to Collegeville. There was a small engagement at Collegeville during the Civil War in October 1864. In this action, commonly known as the Skirmish at Hurricane Creek or the Skirmish at Hunter’s Crossing, federal forces scored an easy victory over the ragtag band of rebels. Union records show that 11 Union soldiers wounded and 28 killed in the action. 

                The dead were buried by local women in nearby Bryant Cemetery. The only known Confederate burial from the skirmish is that of William Anderson Penn of Company C, Second Texas Cavalry. A historical marker commemorating the Civil War action is located at the cemetery on South Reynolds Road near the new Bryant Junior High School.

                The town that became modern-day Bryant began to prosper after the end of the Civil War in 1865. The St. Louis and Iron Mountain Railroad connected Bryant with Little Rock in 1871. The Bryant Township was officially created in 1878. The township was officially incorporated as a town in 1892, and was later designated as a city of the first class in 1946. Bryant’s first mayor was Conway Ashley.

                Bryant and the railroad that ran through the city were successful during World War II, with trains carrying aluminum made in nearby Bauxite to the country’s aircraft plants. Interstate 30 was built through Bryant during the 1950s, which led to a new period of population growth that has continued today. Alcoa and Reynolds Roads — two main thoroughfares through the city — are a reminder of Saline County’s mining past.

                In the mid-1980s, Bryant’s population grew as people looked for homes outside the hustle and bustle of the metro. The Bryant School District with its high school, junior high, two middle schools and six elementary schools attracted new residents then and continues to do so today. 

                The school system is Bryant’s largest employer and a source of pride for the city. The Bryant High football team has won five state 7-A championships within the past six years. The annual Salt Bowl, between Bryant High and Benton High Schools, has been played at War Memorial Stadium in Little Rock since fall 2000 and brings in thousands of football fans from not just Saline County but from across the state. The name was chosen in honor of Saline County’s nineteenth-century salt works.

                And if you happen to like photo-ops, you may wish to stand near the exact center of Arkansas. 

                While you can’t visit the exact spot, but you can come close. In 1936, the Arkansas Society Daughters of American Colonists placed a monument near the geographical center of Arkansas. The marker consists of a concrete base with a monument on top of the platform that bears a large embossed plate on its front. The marker rests fifteen miles from Little Rock alongside Pinecrest Memorial Park Cemetery in Bryant and near the unincorporated community of Collegeville.

                I hope all of you have a very merry Christmas and a happy holiday season!

The Bauxite Historical Museum

                

                Years ago, when I worked for Arkansas Parks & Tourism, we ran an ad campaign that featured the slogan, "Go play in your own backyard." 

                Today, I live in rural Saline County. But thanks to a new job, I spend a lot of time in Bryant. As a result, the city of Bauxite is my "backyard." But until recently, I’d never visited the small town. So, during my lunch break last week, I decided to take the short, five-minute drive to Bauxite and, in particular, the Bauxite Historical Museum. The museum, located in the former Bauxite Community House, is truly a hidden gem in the Natural State.

                The beginning of the Bauxite Historical Museum starts in 1887, when bauxite was first discovered in Saline County. Mostly made of aluminum hydroxide minerals, bauxite was desperately needed by the U.S. military in both World War I and II, and as a result, the small central Arkansas community became a boomtown. 

                In 1903, the Aluminum Company of America (later Alcoa) built an ore-drying plant in the Bauxite area. The company-owned town grew in population, and in 1926, Alcoa built the Bauxite Community House for community events. Alcoa employees funded the project, contributing 25 cents per paycheck until the company recouped the building's cost.

                The community house had a library, reading room, game room and full-service kitchen. It was also home to the town’s Masonic lodge. Clear Lake was built nearby to serve as a recreational area for Alcoa employees and their families.

                But with the end of World War II, Alcoa found it most cost-effective to mine bauxite ore overseas, and as a result, the company-owned and operated town of Bauxite nearly went from a boomtown to a ghost town. On June 19, 1967, Alcoa officially notified Bauxite residents that as of July 1, 1969, the company would no longer financially support the town. 

                Having been run by Alcoa, Bauxite never incorporated. But that changed on Jan. 16, 1973. And as of the 2020 Census, the town had 629 residents.

                The Bauxite Historical Museum is operated by the Bauxite Historical Association. The group began as the Alcoa Employees Descendants Association, which began in 1986 as a nonprofit organization charged with the maintenance and preservation of the Bauxite Community Hall and other properties deeded to the organization by Alcoa. 

                The museum features exhibits and artifacts about the history of bauxite mining and about the lives of those who worked in the mines. One artifact of particular note is made of woven aluminum fabric created by world-renowned Paris designer, Jean Desses. The $25,000 dress is only one of two known to exist, and it was worn by Miss Arkansas Barbara Banks at the Aluminum Bowl game at War Memorial Stadium in Little Rock on Dec. 22, 1956. 

                There are also rooms in the museum dedicated to the history of the Bauxite school system, World Wars I and II, as well sports memorabilia from local athletes who went on to have collegiate and professional success. Those include Leon “Muscles” Campbell, a football standout at the University of Arkansas in Fayetteville who played for the NFL’s Baltimore Colts and Chicago Bears.

                In early 2008, the H. Tyndall Dickinson Family commissioned a large bronze statue titled Unsung Heroes–Bauxite Miners to be placed on the museum’s grounds. The statue depicts a father, dressed in overalls, saying goodbye to his family as he goes to work in the mines. The sculpture was unveiled on the front lawn of the Bauxite Community Hall in October of that year.

                The Bauxite Historical Museum is open from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.Wednesdays and from 1:30 to 4 p.m. Sundays. Admission is free, and donations are appreciated. The museum is located at 6706 Benton Road in Bauxite. For more information, call 501-557-9858.

Caddo Valley, Arkansas

            

            Located in northeastern Clark County, the town of Caddo Valley is just 4 miles north of Arkadelphia and is about the halfway point between Little Rock and Texarkana. The town is often referred to as “The Gateway to Lake DeGray,” with DeGray Dam and DeGray Lake Resort State Park within 5 miles of the area to the north.

            Before the Europeans settled in the area now known as Caddo Valley, Native Americans, particularly the Caddo (for whom the town is named), lived there. This part of the future state of Arkansas was known for its dense forests, abundance of fish and wildlife, fertile soil, springs, clear rivers and streams. Much archaeological work has been done in and around Caddo Valley. In fact, Henderson State University in Arkadelphia hosts one of the largest collections of Caddo artifacts in the world.

            The first known white settler, Jacob Barkman, arrived in the Caddo Valley area in 1811 and built a home on the south bank of the Caddo River. Caddo Valley proved to be a perfect location for commercial farming and, with the Ouachita River nearby, goods were easily shipped to market.

            Barkman’s house was used as Clark County’s courthouse in the early days of the Arkansas Territory. Eventually, a permanent county seat was established at Greenville, located to the southwest along Military Road. In 1842, Arkadelphia (once known as Blakelytown) became the county seat and has remained so ever since.

            Caddo Valley grew over the next century. In 1904, a school was built in the area. In 1968, the Arkansas Children’s Colony, Arkadelphia Unit — now the Arkadelphia Human Development Center — opened in Caddo Valley. After the town was officially incorporated on Sept. 11, 1974, the construction of a city hall soon began, as did the creation of a police department and fire station.

            Caddo Valley is a crossroads of sorts — both rivers and highways meet in town. The two rivers that cross in Caddo Valley are the Caddo River and the Ouachita River, and the town is located at the junction of Interstate 30, Highway 67 and Highway 7. As of the 2020 Census, the town’s population was 595.

            The small town attracts a great number of visitors to nearby DeGray Lake or those on their way to Texas thanks in part due to the strip of businesses (including numerous hotels, restaurants, craft stores and gas station) that line Highway 7. The 40-mile Caddo River starts in the Ouachita Mountains in southern Montgomery County and flows near the communities of Caddo Gap, Glenwood and Norman before being damned to create the ever-popular and beautiful DeGray Lake. 

            Above the lake, the Caddo River is considered an excellent family float stream. Local outfitters, quaint cabins and other lodging are available along the river. Below DeGray Dam, the Caddo continues some 5 miles before joining the Ouachita River north of Arkadelphia.

            Built and operated by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, DeGray Lake is known for its beautiful clear water and is home to the DeGray Lake Resort State Park, which is operated by the Arkansas Department of Parks, Heritage & Tourism. Thousands of visitors use the lake and parks that surround it every year, pumping millions into Caddo Valley’s economy.

            Whether you’re someone looking to explore the Natural State’s beautiful outdoors, feast on local cuisine, or shop for unique gifts made by local artisans and crafters, the little town of Caddo Valley is definitely a place to spend some time in Arkansas.

All Around Arkansas: JFK in Arkansas

                

                Not only do we as Americans celebrate Thanksgiving this week, but on Nov. 22, we will observe the 60th anniversary of the assassination of President John Fitzgerald Kennedy. 

                I’ve always been fascinated by the young president, silenced in his prime. While I didn't grow up in the Kennedy era, my parents did, and they were devoted fans. I first heard about JFK from mom and dad, and my first political button (now part of a collection that numbers a thousand) was obtained by the local Kennedy for President headquarters by one of my grandfathers in 1960.

                As the nation remembers Kennedy this week, I wanted to take a look at the times he visited Arkansas both as a candidate and president.

                The first recorded visit by Kennedy to the Natural State was on Sept. 13, 1960, when, as the Democratic presidential nominee, he participated in the annual Four States Fair parade in Texarkana. 

                The young senator from Massachusetts rode in a Pontiac Bonneville convertible through the streets of Texarkana before making a brief campaign speech at the federal courthouse and post office on State Line Avenue. Kennedy would speak later that day at the fair. On stage with Kennedy were U.S. Sen. J. William Fulbright and U.S. Rep. Wilbur Mills, both of Arkansas; Speaker of the House Sam Rayburn; and U.S. Rep. Wright Patman of Texas.

                Kennedy won both Arkansas and Texas, which primarily voted Democrat at the time, and went on to narrowly defeat Republican Richard Nixon to become our nation’s 35th commander-in-chief.

                There's a marker in front of the federal courthouse and post office in Texarkana where Kennedy spoke in 1960. Inscribed on the granite monument is the iconic quote from Kennedy’s inaugural address: “Ask not what your country can do for you, but ask what you can do for your country.” The marker can be found not far behind “Photographers’ Island,” where millions have taken their picture standing in the two states at once.

                As president, Kennedy returned to Arkansas nearly three years after his first visit to dedicate Greers’ Ferry Dam near Heber Springs on Oct. 3, 1963. Again, he was accompanied by Fulbright and Mills, but also U.S. Sen. John McClellan of Arkansas and Arkansas’ controversial governor, Orval E. Faubus.

                Kennedy spoke about how the dam and lake would affect the local area and the states. He also predicted the project would bring positive financial change to the area, especially for the tourism industry. 

                The dedication of the dam and lake mark the only time a sitting president has ever visited Cleburne County. A bust of Kennedy stands near the site where he delivered his remarks overlooking Greers Ferry Dam. John F. Kennedy Park, located on the Little Red River just below the dam, is named in his honor.

            Kennedy, again accompanied by Faubus, Mills, Fulbright and McClellan, spoke later that afternoon at the Arkansas State Fair and Livestock Show in Little Rock.

            Kennedy’s speech hinted at the racial problems of the region and focused on the promises of an economically prosperous new South. 

            "The old South has its problems, and they are not yet over," Kennedy said, "nor are they over in the rest of the country, but there is rising every day, I believe, a new South.

            "This rising tide in this state and in the South and in the nation must continue," Kennedy said. "We must build those dams. We must use our resources. We must educate our children. We must provide jobs for our people. These are the great assignments, which this generation of Americans in the '60s has before it."

            On Nov. 22, just seven weeks after Kennedy’s visit to Arkansas, he was murdered while riding in a motorcade through the streets of downtown Dallas.

            Kennedy didn’t make many visits to Arkansas during his short life. But by all accounts, they were impactful and fondly remembered.

All Around Arkansas: Historic Hollywood Cemetery

                

                Hot Springs is notorious as a bastion of famous (and infamous) people throughout its long and storied past. And these characters need somewhere to “rest in peace” once they pass away. Thankfully, the Spa City is not only home to historic bathhouses and great restaurants, but to many cemeteries as well.

                My wife and I stumbled across one such cemetery a couple of Saturdays ago. We were looking for the Hot Springs Bark Park to take our Boston terrier, Dixie, to play and interact with other canines. We noticed the cemetery across from the park, so after Dixie had had all the dog park fun she could stand, we paid a visit.

                It turns out that Hollywood Cemetery is the oldest cemetery in Hot Springs, with its oldest marked grave dating to 1856. The cemetery is located in the southeast portion of downtown Hot Springs near Hot Springs Creek. It is bounded by Hollywood Avenue, Mote Street and Shady Grove Road. According to the website, FindaGrave.com, there are 2,038 graves in Hollywood Cemetery.

                The cemetery’s notable burials include Medal of Honor recipient Private Christian Steiner and U.S. Congressman Lewis E. Sawyer. 

                Steiner was a German-born soldier in the U.S. Army who served with the 8th U.S. Cavalry during the Apache Wars in the Arizona Territory. He was one of 32 men awarded the Medal of Honor for gallantry for successfully fighting the Apache and Cochise Indians in a battle that took place in the Chiricahua Mountains of Arizona on Oct. 20, 1869. Steiner died on Aug. 5, 1880, at the young age of 37.

                An Alabama native, Lewis E. Sawyer moved to Hot Springs in 1908 to practice law. He served two terms in the Arkansas House of Representatives in 1913 and 1915, and was its speaker in the latter year. Sawyer, a Democrat, was later elected to the U.S. Congress in 1922. His time in Washington was brief, as he only served from March 4, 1923, to May 5, 1923.

                Of particular note to Civil War buffs is the Confederate section of Hollywood Cemetery. This section is a 60-ft. by 54-ft. plot surrounded by a low concrete wall with ornamental concrete posts at all four corners and an opening on the western side inscribed “Confederate Veterans.” 

                The plot contains 34 marked burials, a large stone memorial monument honoring the dead and four concrete benches.

                In 1900, David Stone Ryan, a former lieutenant in the Confederate Army during the Civil War, purchased what would become known as the Confederate Section in Hollywood Cemetery. Ryan bought the land on behalf of the local camp of the United Confederate Veterans (UCV) to ensure a final resting place for his fellow former Confederate soldiers. 

                The Albert Pike UCV Camp was dissolved in 1906, and the members voted to transfer ownership of the plot to the Hot Springs chapter of the United Daughters of the Confederacy (UDC) to maintain.

                After taking control of the Confederate section of the historic cemetery, the ladies of the UDC raised money to buy a Confederate monument for the plot. The project was finally completed in 1919, with the placement of a large granite monument inscribed “Our Confederate Dead.” The monument stands in the southern end of the plot and is impossible to miss. In 1974, four concrete benches were placed in the plot by the UDC. 

                The Hollywood Cemetery, filled with the graves of so many historic figures, made history itself when it was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1996. The cemetery is one of 94 listings in Garland County on the National Register.

All Around Arkansas: A Place Called Piggott

 

                I have driven through the northeast Arkansas town of Piggott, but I've been mostly unaware of its long and fascinating history — one that begins with a prominent doctor and includes one of the greatest American writers of the 20th century.

                The Clay County seat — one of two there today — was named for James A. Piggott, a medical doctor from Illinois who came to the area in 1872, settling near what is now modern-day Piggott.

                The town was originally named Huston after another prominent citizen, but was later renamed for the highly respected doctor, who led the effort to successfully petition the U.S Postal Service for a post office at the rural settlement.

                Both the town and post office were established in 1882, the same year railroad tracks were laid to haul out valuable timber. With the shift of residents toward the railroad, Clay County’s original seat of government, Boydsville, was no longer convenient for citizens. As a result, a special election in 1891 awarded the county seat to Piggott.

                The town went through a major population growth in the 1910s. In 1913, two of what would become Piggott’s most famous residents, Paul and Mary Pfeiffer, moved with their children to the town from St. Louis. 

                The Pfeiffers purchased 65,000 acres in the Piggott area, which they divided into farmsteads and rented to tenants who came to Arkansas from all around the country.

                When the Pfeiffer family arrived in Piggott, the growing city featured a town square built around the two-story brick Clay County Courthouse constructed in 1889. Businesses and stores lined the square. Many of the businesses in Piggott were agriculture related, such as farm implement dealers, leather shops, blacksmiths and a grain mill and elevator. 

                Piggott’s largest hotel, the Palace Hotel, opened in 1912, across from the railroad depot at the corner of Front and Main streets. Hotel advertisements boasted of the establishment’s 14 well-ventilated rooms with all the “modern conveniences.”

                 In spite of the Pfeiffers' many civic and philanthropic contributions to Piggott, they are no doubt best known as the parents of Pauline Pfeiffer, who married the famous American writer Ernest Hemingway. During their marriage, which lasted from 1927 to 1940, the Hemingways regularly visited the Pfeiffers in Piggott. The Pfeiffers even converted an old barn behind their home into a writing studio for their son-in-law. It was in this studio that Heminway wrote parts of “A Farewell to Arms” and other short stories. 

                Supposedly, Hemingway had mixed feelings about his in-law’s hometown, including a strong dislike of the hot and humid Arkansas summers. But he did write in the February 1934 issue of Esquire magazine that one of the places he would rather be, other than Paris, was “Piggott, Arkansas, in the fall.”

                Today the Pfeiffer’s former house and property are owned by the Arkansas State University System and operated as The Hemingway-Pfeiffer Museum and Educational Center. The museum features exhibits on Hemingway and life in Arkansas in the 1930s. It also serves as the northern anchor for Crowley’s Ridge Parkway, a National Scenic Byway that goes through eight counties in eastern Arkansas. Just across the street from the Hemingway-Pfeiffer Museum is the Matilda and Karl Pfeiffer Museum and Study Center, which focuses on the lives and unique collections of Pauline Hemingway’s brother and sister-in-law.

                I’ve never been to these two museums, but they are definitely on my Arkansas bucket list. I’ve actually been to Hemingway’s home in Key West, Florida, so I need to pay his Arkansas museum a visit as well. There are many other attractions to see and experience in Piggott that perhaps I’ll explore in a future column.

All Around Arkansas: The Action at Fitzhugh's Woods

                

                While most of Arkansas had been taken over by Union forces by spring 1864 and the capital city, Little Rock, remained firmly in the grasp of federal hands, there were still pockets of rebellion throughout Arkansas late in the Civil War.

                The site of one skirmish between Union and Confederates — Fitzhugh’s Woods in Woodruff County — is easily accessible to drivers along Arkansas Route 33. The fight preceded a renewed push by Confederates in the region in the summer of 1864.

                In March 1864, word reached Union commanders in Little Rock that Confederate Brigadier Gen. Dandridge McRae was actively recruiting rebels in the area between the White and Mississippi rivers. They also learned that McRae was being helped by 50 commissioned officers who had been left without commands due to Confederate desertions following the Union capture of Little Rock in September 1863. 

                McRae and company sought to bring the former soldiers back into Confederate ranks and use them in attacks against federal targets such as the Memphis to Little Rock Railroad.

                In an effort to squash McRae’s efforts, Union Major Gen. Frederick Steele sent Col. Christopher Andrews, commander of both the Third Minnesota Infantry Regiment and the Union garrison at Little Rock, along with 186 men of the Third Minnesota and 45 of the Eighth Missouri Cavalry to Woodruff County in late March. Northern troops on the steamboat, The Dove, arrived at Gregory’s Landing near Augusta on the White River at dusk. The garrison then advanced toward a reported Confederate campsite — only to find it recently deserted.

                Early morning on April 1, Union troops arrived in Augusta, where they learned that McRae’s main camp was actually at a plantation about 7 miles north of town. Andrews left a small band of forces to guard The Dove and then headed north with 160 men to find McRae and the rebels. 

                After marching 12 miles north of Augusta, Andrews decided to turn back toward town. While pausing at the Fitzhugh Plantation for a quick lunch, Federal troops were attacked by Confederates under the command of Col. Thomas R. Freeman and Capt. John Bland. 

                The Union repelled the surprise rebel attack and then hurried south on the road to Augusta. But the Confederates attacked again at the forested land along the White River known as Fitzhugh’s Woods, named for the nearby settlement of Fitzhugh and the plantation located there.

                The attacking Confederate groups consisted of soldiers under the commands of Freeman and Bland, along with companies under Confederate Captains George Rutherford, Sam McGuffin, Jesse Tracy and James Reynolds. In total, the rebels had a combined force of about 600 cavalrymen. 

                The Confederates struck Andrews’ men from the front, left and rear, but the Federal soldiers stood their ground and fended off their attackers in a lengthy firefight that left both sides low on ammo.

                Andrews’ Union command suffered eight killed, sixteen wounded and five missing or wounded. McRae listed his losses as 20 to 25 killed and mortally wounded and 60 to 75 wounded. 

                The fight at Fitzhugh’s Woods slowed McRae’s attempts to recruit soldiers or reenlist deserters into the Confederate ranks. It would not be until the summer that Confederate Brigadier General J.O. Shelby would implement a draft and begin attacks against Union troops in the region.

                The area of Fitzhugh’s Woods where much of the fighting took place was added to the Arkansas Register of Historic Places by the Department of Arkansas Heritage in December 2003. 

                Today, you can find the official listing, a historic marker, two panels interpreting the battle and a replica cannon at the site. The marker and panels can be seen on your right when traveling north from the intersection of Arkansas Route 33 and Woodruff Road (County Road 165).

All Around Arkansas: The Arkansas State Fair

                Although the color of the leaves and the temperatures aren’t reflecting it, fall is upon us, and that means college football, the smell of pumpkin spice everything and the Arkansas State Fair. 

                In the next several days, thousands of Arkansans will make the annual pilgrimage down Roosevelt Road in Little Rock for jumbo corn dogs, concerts, free stuff in the Hall of Industry and lots of people-watching.

                Officially named the Arkansas State Fair and Livestock Show, the current incarnation of the state fair started in 1938. But long before then, there were several attempts to establish a centralized fair for Arkansas. 

                In November 1867, the Arkansas State Agricultural and Mechanical Association was created. One of its top goals was to establish a state fair. Arkansas’ first state fair was held in Little Rock from Nov. 17–20, 1868. The fair was located at what is now the corner of Center and 17th streets. 

                In May 1881, the State Fair Association of Arkansas was incorporated. The organization used 110 acres on East 9th Street in Little Rock for the state fair until the start of World War I in 1914. 

                State fair archives show that a “state fair” was held at Oaklawn Park (now the site of Oaklawn Racing Casino Resort) in Hot Springs in 1906. Another was held at Fair Park (now the location of the Little Rock Zoo and War Memorial Stadium) in Little Rock in 1922.

                In the late 1930s, a group of leaders in the state’s agriculture industry formed the Arkansas Livestock Show Association. The group decided to sponsor a public livestock exposition to help educate farmers and to promote Arkansas’ livestock industry. The Arkansas Livestock Show was held Nov. 9–13, 1938, in North Little Rock. The show was not a success — only 17,000 people attended and the show lost $23,000. 

                The following year, officials decided to move the event back a month for better weather. And along with the time change, promoters brought in world-famous celebrity cowboy Roy Rogers to make an appearance. They also added carnival rides and food, making the livestock show now a full-fledged statewide fair. 

                The annual event would stay in North Little Rock for three more years until a fire destroyed its facilities the day after the fair’s end in 1942. As a result, the state fair was moved to Pine Bluff in 1943. But it would be the only time the state fair was held in that city. Officials canceled the event in 1944 and 1945 due to World War II.

                In 1944, Little Rock city leaders made a proposal to the Arkansas Livestock Show Association to permanently move the fair to the state’s capital on the land where War Memorial Stadium stands today. But the association didn’t like the location and rejected the city’s offer. In 1945, the Little Rock Chamber of Commerce offered the Arkansas Livestock Show Association several acres on Roosevelt Road, and this time, the association said yes. In the years to come, the association expanded the fairgrounds, and now the Arkansas State Fairgrounds Complex consists of 135 acres. The property was added to the National Register of Historic Places in January 2022.

                Construction of an arena on the fairgrounds began in 1948, and was completed in 1951. The structure, Barton Coliseum, was named for Col. Thomas H. Barton, the founder and president of Lion Oil Co. in El Dorado. Barton contributed money to help build the arena and served as the livestock association’s president for many years. 

                The 83rd annual Arkansas State Fair started on Friday, Oct. 13, and runs through Sunday, Oct. 22. As always, there’s lots of rides, animals, concerts, rodeos and, of course, the fair food. 

                For information on dates and times, admission costs and a schedule of events, visit www.arkansasstatefair.com. And should you go to this year’s fair, you’ll go knowing how this annual Arkansas fall tradition began.

All Around Arkansas: War Eagle Mill

                My wife is a native Texan, and one of her favorite spots to visit in the Natural State is War Eagle Mill near Rogers. In fact, several of her Lone Star State relatives travel with her to the yearly festival held at War Eagle, one of the most scenic and nostalgic sites in northwest Arkansas. 

                Even if you’ve never visited War Eagle Mill, chances are you’ve seen the photos — it's one of the most photographed places in the state. 

                Its authentic, water-powered gristmill is the latest reproduction of a mill that has perched on the banks of the War Eagle River since the 1830s. When it was completed in 1973, War Eagle Mill was the first new gristmill built in Arkansas in nearly a century.

                The site has long been an important center of activity. Sylvanus Blackburn, an early settler, miller and blacksmith, built the first mill on the War Eagle River in the early 1840s. 

                A flood washed away the mill in 1848, but Blackburn replaced it in time to grind grain that fed the Union and Confederate armies during the early years of the Civil War. Following his devastating loss at the battle of Pea Ridge, Confederate Gen. Earl Van Dorn marched his retreating army past the mill in March 1862.

                Like many structures in Arkansas during the Civil War, War Eagle Mill was destroyed by fire and wasn’t rebuilt until after the war’s end. When the Blackburn family returned to the site in 1865, only their house was still standing. 

                Sylvanus' son, James Blackburn, rebuilt the mill, putting it back into operation by 1873. After winning a seat in the Arkansas State Senate, James sold the mill to the Kilgore family, who operated it until 1924, when the mill once again burned down. The disaster left only the foundation and a few other remnants.

                In 1973, Jewel Medlin bought the mill property from the Kilgores. Medlin and his wife, Leta, and daughter, Zoe, found a set of original blueprints and rebuilt the mill for the final time. 

                Standing at three stories tall, the mill today offers a variety of exhibits, as well as fun shopping and dining experiences. Visitors can see the mill in operation and buy natural whole grain products, as well as cereal and flour that are milled and sold on site. Products produced at the mill are also available for purchase online.

                Next to the mill is the War Eagle Bridge, one of the most historic and well-known spans in Arkansas. Visitors love walking on the wooden flooring of the bridge and the beautiful views of the mill and river.

                War Eagle Mill is home to one of the most popular arts and crafts festivals in the southern U.S. The War Eagle Mill Arts and Craft Fair began in 1954 as a way for crafters from across the Ozarks to sell their homemade wares.

                The next festival will be held Oct. 19-22. For more information, visit the fair’s website at www.wareaglefair.com or call 479-789-5398.

                War Eagle Mill is located about 10 miles from Rogers and 25 miles southwest of Eureka Springs. The mill is open to the public seven days a week for most of the year except in January and February, when its weekends only.

                If you enjoy beautiful Ozark Mountain scenery, old bridges, fine dining and shopping and seeing how things were made in the “good ol’ days,” then a drive to War Eagle Mill would be time and money well spent.

                Darrell W. Brown is a proud sixth-generation Arkansan who loves learning and writing about our state's history and culture. He and his wife, Amy, live on beautiful Lake Norrell in Saline County with their beloved Boston Terrier, Dixie. Brown is a public school educator in Bryant, ordained minister and syndicated columnist.

All Around Arkansas: Pea Ridge National Military Park

                On March 7-8, 1862, more than 23,000 Union and Confederate troops clashed at the battle of Pea Ridge near modern-day Rogers in the largest Civil War battle in Arkansas history. The battle decided the fate of Missouri and was the turning point of the war in the Trans-Mississippi Theater. Most Civil War historians agree that Pea Ridge was the most pivotal battle west of the Mississippi River.

                The Union forces at Pea Ridge were commanded by Brig. Gen. Samuel Curtis, while Maj. Gen. Earl Van Dorn led the Confederates. Van Dorn and his men launched a counteroffensive in which they attempted to recapture northern Arkansas and Missouri for the Confederacy. But against all odds, Curtis and his troops held off the Confederate attack, and on the second day drove Van Dorn's forces completely off the Pea Ridge battlefield. By handily defeating the Confederates, Curtis and his soldiers established federal control of Missouri and much of north Arkansas.

                Arkansas lawyer, educator and prominent Freemason Albert Pike served as a senior officer in the Confederate Army at the battle of Pea Ridge and commanded the Indian Territory District (present-day Oklahoma). After the battle, allegations were made claiming that Indian soldiers under Pike’s command scalped enemy soldiers. Official records related to the investigation show Pike "regarded [the incident] with horror," and that he was personally "angry and disgusted.”

                In the aftermath of the Civil War, Union and Confederate veterans held several reunions at the Pea Ridge battlefield, the first taking place in 1887. The reunions helped keep the memory of the dead alive and facilitate healing between the once-opposing soldiers of each army. At the early reunions, money was raised to help buy monuments to honor the dead, which still stand.

                In 1956, the Arkansas’ congressional delegation pushed for legislation to make the Pea Ridge battlefield a national military park under the jurisdiction of the National Park Service. On July 20, 1956, the U.S. Congress voted to accept a 5,000-acre donation of land from the state. As a result of the donation, the 4,300-acre Pea Ridge National Military Park was officially created by an act of the Congress and was dedicated as a national park in 1963.

                To acquire land for the park, the government purchased or used eminent domain on farms and homes in the area. Many houses and other structures were sold and moved off of park property. The National Park Service demolished all other remaining structures except for the Elkhorn Tavern.

                The Pea Ridge battlefield was listed on the Department of the Interior’s National Register of Historic Places on Oct. 15, 1966.

                Pea Ridge National Military Park is considered by experts as one of the best-preserved Civil War battlefields in the nation. Some of the park’s amenities include a visitor center and a state-of-the-art museum that houses numerous battlefield artifacts. The park also features hiking trails, a self-guided driving tour and the restored Elkhorn Tavern. A 2.5-mile section of the Trail of Tears is located within the park’s boundaries.

                Elkhorn Tavern, the park's centerpiece, is a two-story, wood-frame structure that was built in 1833 and served as ground zero at the battle of Pea Ridge. In fact, the battle of Pea Ridge is often referred to as the battle of Elkhorn Tavern. The building is actually a replica built in 1865, as the original Elkhorn Tavern was set ablaze by bushwhackers in January 1863. The replica was built on the original building's foundation and includes the original chimney.

            For more information on the park and battle, visit the National Park Service’s website at www.nps.gov/peri/index.htm.

            While Pea Ridge may not be as famous as other Civil War battlefields as Gettysburg or Vicksburg, it’s definitely worth visiting if you’re a Civil War buff.